Need Quick Info;Inner metal door panel removal.
I'm installing new speakers and sound deadening material in doors right now. I'm not sure on how to remove the inner large metal panel that holds the window motor. What precautions should I take? Do I have any alignment issues afterwards? Is there anything I can easily break/Mis install/ect...?
Thanks in advance, Avion
Thanks in advance, Avion
Ironic you should ask this. I was going to make a post this morning as well about this. I was helping a forum member lay some deadener and we came across the same issue. We took off all the black bolts thinking maybe it would come off, but there is that adhesion that it holding it in place and is stuck there pretty good. Would be great to find an answer.
Here's a very thorough DIY on a coupe. It's very similar for the sedan. I used this guide to help me install my sound deadener.
https://g35driver.com/forums/body-in...ement-diy.html
The window runners were a b*itch to align when putting everything back in. Good luck.
https://g35driver.com/forums/body-in...ement-diy.html
The window runners were a b*itch to align when putting everything back in. Good luck.
Thanks for the link. I also found this one. https://g35driver.com/forums/body-in...l-removal.html
Quick question though. Since those are both for replacing the motor, when deadening, it does not need to be removed correct? And I'm so glad that it is WIDE open. That means no cuts on fingers, hands, and arms as I got with my Accord
Quick question though. Since those are both for replacing the motor, when deadening, it does not need to be removed correct? And I'm so glad that it is WIDE open. That means no cuts on fingers, hands, and arms as I got with my Accord
Yea I just left the window motor dangling(inside the door). The cord holding it up seems pretty sturdy. Sound deadening is the most time consuming mod I've ever done. It is well worth it though as my mid bass does seem to be more tighter and defined. Now I just need my JDM dash kit and Kenwood DNX8120
Yep, it definitely does wonders. I'm not sure how many layers I'll be doing myself, it will only be for reducing road noise for me since I'm doing kick pods, but the person I was helping out is putting mids in the doors so it would benefit him. Thanks for the info!
Those window guides are going to be a real pain to align with the metal door panel. Anyone got the best way to do it? LESSONS LEARNED: This is much better a two person job. Also BEFORE removing the panel in the first place ensure those slotted window guide bolts do not turn on you. Use a screw driver to hold the bolt from spinning while using a box wrench to undo the bolt. At all times protect the glass from the metal door with card board,folded paper bags,rags ect...
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Just take your time. It is not difficult! Motor does not have to be removed and you can easily move around it once you remove the black inner panel.
When I deadened my door the hardest part reattaching the motor to the inner panel, actually took me about 1 1/2-2 hours to figure it out : (
Once I did the second door was a breeze! I spent less than 10 minutes attaching it!
When I deadened my door the hardest part reattaching the motor to the inner panel, actually took me about 1 1/2-2 hours to figure it out : (
Once I did the second door was a breeze! I spent less than 10 minutes attaching it!
Originally Posted by donpisto
Thanks for the link. I also found this one. https://g35driver.com/forums/body-in...l-removal.html
Quick question though. Since those are both for replacing the motor, when deadening, it does not need to be removed correct? And I'm so glad that it is WIDE open. That means no cuts on fingers, hands, and arms as I got with my Accord
Quick question though. Since those are both for replacing the motor, when deadening, it does not need to be removed correct? And I'm so glad that it is WIDE open. That means no cuts on fingers, hands, and arms as I got with my Accord

Cascade audio FTW!!
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