After putting up with the poor quality of the BOSE sound for 3 years, I did something about it. Not wanting to change HU, the recommended practice is to replace the speakers first. Wanting to stick with 2 ohms, I had the choice was Infinity Kappas 63.9 3 ways or JBL GTO 637 3ways. Crutchfield recommended the JBLs for my music taste. Also while in there , I dynomatted both doors. Used Zenclousers as spacers. Results: The boomyness distortion is gone! Base is tight and natural. Mids and Highs are greatly much improved. Now I want to replace the rest of the speakers. I'm more into true reproduction of sound, not volume or coloring the music. It seems to me the stock HU and Amp have the Frequency Response for correct reproduction, It's the sorry speakers that fail to produce the correct sound.

 

If you want true reproduction of sound, disconnect the rear speakers as they are just to "fill" the car. I'd also recommend a processor or, if you may, a head unit that has the ability to do time alignment and some EQ-ing, thus, allowing you to set your soundstage centered and eye/ear level. A sub will also help with the lowend bass reproduction.

I actually faded the speakers in the rear so the stage is more in the front. I would balance it out, but that just means that one speaker gets less power than the other, whereas time alignment just delays the sound.

 

any pix of the install ?

 

Good deal. I have been wanting to replace mine for some time, but i don't understand this whole 2 ohm thing and keeping the factory head unit...i was on the verge of buying the JL audio ZR's, but they are 4 ohms and i don't want to replace the head unit...

-Sean

 

The install is pretty basic so no pictures are taken. The part I had the most concern was removing the metal inner panel and keeping the widow rails out of the way while installing the Dynomatt. The Zenclosures adapter rings were precut by phone order. A little trimming required on adapter ring for speaker connection terminal clearance. I spliced the old door BOSE conectors with crimped spade connectors. No extra trimming required on door panel.
Being that the BOSE system is 2 ohms, using a 4 ohm speaker would suffer volume loss. I was told by the experts stay with 2 ohms unless I was planning a HU upgrade or adding Amplifiers.
Granted you can build a better system and spend a lot more money. You need to ask yourself, Am I building this for my personal enjoyment, or to show how much money you can drop on a sound system? Also at what point can't you appreciate the difference? Set a Goal on what performace you want and plan what componants are required to obtain it

 

So if I already bought speakers 4ohm, does that mean I can wire them in parallel to get a 2ohm load and get the same results. I didn't know the Blose amp was 2ohm. I purchased 4 polk audio 6500 but they command a lot of power to sound good 10-120 watts, I am not so sure the bose amp will be capable of feeding them enough power. That will save me having to add an amp, which I've had for a while collecting dust (RF 750X). What do you think

 

You would do better to return the 4 ohm Polks for something with 2 ohm impedance. Or install that RF amp you have if you want to keep the 4 ohm polks.

 

ok thanks. I think I will keep the polks and just install the amp I have

 

^^ Hey Gilley does the 04 Sedan with bose have a 6X9 on the rear deck??

 

^ Nope its not a 6x9.

 

The 03-06 sedans have a single woofer in the back deck.

 

How did you mount the tweeters? Factory location? Tweeter mounting is what's holding me back from dropping Infinity components in my G.

 

Mounting the tweeters is easy. A metal bracket holds each tweeter in its stock location. Remove the brackert and fasten it to the new tweeter. I use hot glue.

 

OP, you said you used zenclosures spacers for door speakers, are spacer needed? Will the window not go down or something withouth them?

 

Never mind, gotta love searching