do u know if the 07 g35s setup is similar?

 

awesome write up. i followed this thing exactly and i got my system hooked up without any problems.... well other than having a bad LOC, but i went and exchange it, hooked the new one up, and i was good to go! thanks a lot!

 

Nice write up. I do have a question though. I don't plan to go with an aftermarket head unit for a little while.

I will not only be adding a sub, but replacing the factory front speakers, thus, needing two amps. I've never done anything with OEM integration so I'm quite new to that aspect so would I get two LOC's (one for each amp) or get an RCA splitter for the LOC so I can connect two amps?

 

are you gonna be running the stock bose rears?

 

I'm probably going to disconnect the rears. Thought about leaving them hooked up, but if it's going to cause problems or complications I wont even run them.

 

Depending on what type of subwoofer you're planning on going with, you can always just get a 5 channel amp.(4 channel with an additional channel for a sub) Also, many amps have both RCA inputs and outputs. You can always connect the LOC to the rear speakers instead of the factory subwoofer, run RCAs into a 4 channel amp, and then out of the 4 channel amp into the sub amp.(Connecting to the factory sub wires will not give you a full range signal)

Any particular reason you're just replacing the front speakers and are considering disconnecting the rears? You can always leave the rear speakers runing off the factory amp...

 

Reason for removing rear speakers is for sound quality, though it would be ideal if I had some sort of processing capabilities for at least some time alignment. Rear speakers bring the sound stage backwards, so rather than the music being there in front of you like a concert, it's now shifted closer towards the rear and it varies where the sound will come from (behind the ears, where the ears are, or a lil forward). If leaving the rear speakers in is not going to complicate things, I'm just going to leave it in till I go with some sort of processing.

The sub I'm going with is an oldschool 15w6. There won't be a 5 channel within my budget, nor a 4 channel that will be able to power it. I'm a fan of headroom so I'm looking to have about 600w on tap for it. Since I'm using the crossover for going with the passive x-overs the amp will need to be pretty beefy. I already have one (well, in a couple hours) of the amps I'll be using (for the speakers) just need to pick up a matching one for the sub.

Originally I was going to go with some old school US Acoustics amps that did not have an RCA output, just the input, but the JBL's I'm going with thankfully do so I'm in the clear now.

Thanks for the helps fellas.

Curious though, for those that have ran wires. How much room is there to have 4 runs of 4 gauge wire going from the battery to the trunk? 2 for power, 2 for ground. I would do 1 of each and use a ground distro and fused distro block and split them off, but I want to have the most stable connection with minimal voltage drop, plus I have quite a bit of wire leftover from previous audio projects.

*EDIT: You mentioned that connecting to the sub will not give a full range setup. So would it be possible to have the oem sub wires connected to one loc for the sub amp and use the rear speaker wires for the amp that will power my speakers in the front?

 

im going along the lines you have the bose system?
the bose system has an amp in the trunk. it runs balanced line level from the headuint to the amp. if your aftermarket amps can accept a balanced input, then i would just cut the wires going to the front speakers and splice them to RCA's and run them to the amp. if your planning on leaving the rears connected (ps running the bose amp w/o the fronts connected can hurt it as far as i know..) but if you are going to leave them connected, tap the input wires going into the amp to the sub amp. you want to tap everything before the amp, cause that will give u the best sound (the bose amp is what has the crappy EQ)
as for the wire, how come ur running 4ga ground all the way to the battery?? i would just ground both amps nearby. i thought u were supposed to ground them within a foot or 2 of the amp...
i would just run the 4ga grounds to a ground point, and run the battery wires up. you can squeze 2 4ga up there, i think the single would be plenty but the 2 will have serious power to the trunk
if you have any questions, feel free to pm and ill send you my number if thats any help

 

Definitely, that was actually what I was going to suggest. If you were going to disconnect the rear speakers, you can just snip the wires for the rear speakers at the amp, and just connect the LOC to those.

In regards to running 4 4awg wire in the car. Should have no problem. I have since removed the 4 awg I originally ran and replaced it with 0 and it fits with plenty of room for another run of wire.

 

This is a decent guide to helping you calculate the correct size wire for your application.

 

Not many amps run balanced inputs. I know Zapco amps do, wish I didnt have to sell my C2K 9.0 and 4.0

Purpose for running 2 runs of ground and power is for a better connection. On the chassis, even though it's bare metal when you grind it down you still have plastic pieces attached to it. I'll have two batteries, one in the trunk and one up front so it'll be a solid connection.

As for the amps, they only accept up to 4 gauge, plus for the power they put out i don't need 1/0.

So for the rear speakers when I disconnect them, I'd have to get another LOC, but would I just use one of the rear speakers' wires or would I have to combine both?

Is it possible to use a multichannel LOC like so:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...s+ALOC648.html

Or better to just go with 2 separate ones?

 

Guys I am from hong kong and I drive the jdm version of skyline. Not sure if it has any difference on the Bose system.
First thing I notice is that I have 5 wires going into the Bose sub, one signal; power;ground; two signals.
Are these wires powering the amp that is right below the woofer??
I only have one amp in the trunk, and I do believe that is used to power all other speakers, right??

I tried to use the loc from the wires that is going to the sub, but it's not working........
I can only guess that the loc is not working??? Any other ideas?? I see there are two ground wires on the loc, do those need to be connected?? Why do we need the ground when there is no power going into the loc???
Does my amp needs to be some sort even after using the loc??
Thanks guys!

 

I would take a look at the wires that go to that sub. The 5 wires that are in that plug could be:
1. 12v constant
2. Amp turn on
3. Ground
4. Speaker +
5. Speaker -

Just a thought, but you would have to verify with the sevice manual or with a multimeter. Before replacing the LOC, make sure you have it connected to the correct wires. If you do, try grounding the extra ground wires. If still nothing you very well may have a bad LOC.

 

Would an audiocontrol LC6 be a better route to go? A friend of mine is selling it for super cheap.

 

JL Audio's amps have differential-balanced inputs as well, and can be had quite reasonably on eBay. That's what I've used in past installs where factory HU had balanced outs. No need for a LOC as long as you use twisted-pair RCAs (which are, by the way, remarkably easy to make yourself with a decent soldering iron).

Thanks, everyone, for the info -- I was going to sell all my equipment from my Acura but now I'm going to put it into the Infiniti. Just my opinion, but in terms of sound quality I'd be willing to bet you'll get way more bang for the buck out of amp/speakers/sub than a new HU with the stock speakers. Those Bose sail tweets are for the birds!