Oh one more thing, after installing how difficult is it to remove the HU?

Say I want to install the PAC Steering wheel controls. I am thinking I might be able to just pull the unit out (it came with 2 metal handles for this), and reach the cables behind.

Also some people reported a hissing sound without the LOC, so I just want to keep the option open for that extra step.

Thanks,

Ben

 

the deck will not be easily removable as the deck has to be screwed into the metal braces otherwise it won't sit in properly. the steering wheel controls will be easier to do at the same time as the deck

 

Hi,

I am half way there and need some help.

I removed the HU, it was a breeze I was done with it in just over 10 minutes. The hard part was bringing the rear cam's cables to the front and also to mount the thing without damaging the rear bumper. Lucky for me I had a small accident a while back, I got rear ended with a slight damage to the bumper. As it turns out the garage didnt properly fit the license plate lights back so I could squeeze the cam cable up through that hole and it came out in the trunk through a small opening where some other wires go towards the parking sensors. Then I took the cables and routed through the trunk underneath neatly towards the back seat. I wasnt able to remove the seat cushions so I removed the rear center console and brought them there, under the rear carpet into the center console and besides the gear shifter into the HU's space.

The problem I am facing is finding a place for the iPod connector and for the USB cables (regular and mini USB for tempering with the unit).

Where do you guys bring these cables to? I was thinking to the center console but for that I will need to do some drilling. The iPod cable has a rather large head so if I drill a hole big enough for it, I will need to cover it up somehow. What is the preferred solution?

Also the BT mic, how can I get that out towards to the steering wheel so that it would not be seen?

And the last thing is the finish around the HU. The trip piece supplied with the Kenwood unit is too large and wouldn't fit. There was another trim included that has a low profile finish and is thin therefore was easy to cut. I cut it to the right size but as its a low profile thing, it sits way behind the HU and DD kit, so there is a gap between. It is good however for covering up the metal brackets so I am fine for now, but would still be nice to have something filling the gap between the DD kit and the HU.

Oh and another thing for the rear cam, I needed to tap into the reverse light's cable, and I believe I found the right spot. As for what I found on the forum, I need the purple cable that goes into the rear light. I found it quickly and there was a funny clip-on plastic piece on it at one point which allowed me to tap in with my reverse cable coming from the camera. Its a small blue plastic clip that has a V shaped metal thing which slightly cuts the cable's plastic surface as you force the wire into it. As if the car was pre-set for me to tap in the reverse light.

As I had not finished the conversion yet I had no chance of trying, did I tap into the right wire and at the right place? This plastic clip had another red cable running to it also.

Thanks for any help,

Ben

 

Where did you guys connect this to on the wire harness? It mentions a ground terminal. Not really sure. I've only installed one radio before and it was simple compared to this. Also - reading some of these threads leads me to believe that I should have used the 7550 versus the 7551 harnes. Should I reverse course and use the 7550 harness? I've got the 7551 harness already wired up.

 

RTrud - yes revert to the 7550

bence -
Backup cam wiring power wiring: if you have a multimeter or a test light turn car to on position and put the car in reverse, if test light lights up/meter reading changes to +12 volts then you have the right wire. flip it back and forth to make sure it's the right one.
Mic: I just placed mine in on the a-piller. works well there. minimal echoes. steering wheel area might give you echo, or people may no be able to hear you well. (personal experience) but mics are progressively getting better so it might be alright
DD trim: what you may have to do is glue it against the dd kit in the back. it's a bit of a pain to make it stay there, I've used black hot glue but that may not cut it in Dubai.
as for the cables I just ran mine to the glove box. you don't have to play with anything you connect anyways

 

Thats an idea about the DD trim, thanks. I will try to see if its feasible. The groove however is not that big there, so I don't know if in this heat that little dot of glue I can squeeze in there will hold or not, but time will tell.

My question was more connected to the routing of the Mic wire. Where did you bring it, at the meet of the dash and windshield? Again, the heat here would eat up the wire in 2 days I think if its somewhat exposed. Even if hidden, the glass might transfer the heat even below the dash if its close to the surface.

Connecting to the glove box is fine by me, but which one? Top or bottom?(I have no factory navi).

Also did you find a hole where you could squeeze it through or you just drilled?

Thanks,

Ben

 

so, how is the sound with the aftermaket hu with the bose speakers and bose amp? i am very curious, better? worse?

 

I will tell you tomorrow, as I am still in the process of the swap. All day today I was driving around with the center of my interior missing

At one point after starting the car, the AC came on all of a sudden, so I had to connect the AC controller and switch the AC off. Its quite an experience with all but wires at the center.

I will get back tomorrow evening when the swap is complete.

Cheers,

Ben

 

I put my wiring in the glove box on the passenger side
the mic: I ran down the a pillar on closest to the door frame (not at the front of the windshield, then around the bcm and to the deck from there

and the sound quality difference is like night and day. the system is actually alright after that.

 

Hi Guys,

I am through with the installation, everything works great. Troy, thanks for the tremendous help!!



I still need to figure out how to fill the gap between the HU and the DD kit, but other than that things look okay.

The sound quality is superior to the BOSE unit indeed, Mr Troy above was right.

Of course I still have a few outstanding issues, lets see if you guys have any ideas about them:

I am unable to update the Kenwood firmware. Here are the instructions from Garmin's site:

https://buy.garmin.com/shop/store/do...=205&pID=13276

I insert the SD card, but nothing happens. I created the garmin folder but it does not find the update I guess. Any help would be appreciated.

Secondly, the iPhone over BT is horrible, and I am not sure its just the iPhone. People hear me just fine, but I hear a lot of static and distortion. Sometimes the voice is great and sometimes I can barely hear it, and this happens within the same exact phone call and I am not moving a meter anywhere so reception is all the same, maxed out.

Oh and another thing, the rear camera works great but only when I put the car in reverse. When I hit the NAV button and hold it in for a second, it shifts to the screen where it would normally show the rear view, but all I see is a blank screen.

Thanks,

Ben

 

that I can't help you with. sorry bro.

 

Hi

I have played with the unit quite a lot, and I saw that Under settings I can supply the speaker information. Its asking about the front, rear, sub, mid, and tweeters. I am really in the dark when it comes to audio, can you please let me know what I should choose? I think the rears are 6x9 but even that I am not sure of.

Do I have tweeters, sub or mid? If not I need to turn these guys off.

The reason I am trying to tune the settings is that my BT audio sounds like total crap. Incoming sound is very choppy, full of static, etc. I have the BT firmware flashed to the latest, so I am out of ideas.

There is also a place where I can set Amp volume. What should I do with that?

Thanks,

Ben