RE Audio has several subs. I don't mean to be an *** but you gotta do some research on your end, it's not that difficult. Go check to see on the manufacturer's webpage how much air space the sub needs. Then check to see what the enclosure specs are and how much air space is available. If it falls within the range, it will be fine.

 

+1 on that... you gotta do your research man. Your best bet is just looking at the specs on whichever sub you want and finding a box to match the air volume that it requires (or vice versa). When I get back in the states of this 7 month deployment, I'm going to take out the floor in the trunk and build one for 2 12" AE12H's.

On another note, RE subs are predominately competition subs and will absolutely own MTX's so I would def go with those.

 

Well, not necessarily competition subs as they have several lines. The MT is their SPL sub, the XXX is meant for getting loud and sounding good, primarily the older XXX, and the rest are still good subs just that they have different power handling values and they wont get as loud as others in their line, but I'd take the RE over MTX anyday.

 

Good luck on finding any RE Udio subs that are going to be compatible with that box. Just 1 SX10 needs just about 1cf by itself. If this what you want to go with, the dual sub set up, look into a deeper box, or have 1 custom made to the specs of the subs. But generally you are going to have 1 hell of a time finding 2 subs to share that littlt of space, and still sound decent. Once I have mine completed I will post pics of it. But that will not be until next week. Custom built to sub specs, Orion HCCA 12.2 (new line).

 

If it's a dual sub enclosure, you could always drill out part of the divider in the shape of a rectangle. It will act as bracing and it can give you increased air space for a single sub.

 

Ok I did some research , found 2 set up.

Single 10" sub with Offset for amp

It has Total volume of airspace - 0.8 cu ft.



http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...ayphotohosting

with a Jl 10w6v2 Recommended Sealed box volume: 0.625 cubic feet

or

Dual 10" enclosure
Total volume of airspace .7 cu. ft.



http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...3AIT&viewitem=

with 2 RE AUDIO SE10D2

Recommended 10" Compact Optimal
Sealed: ( 0.4 ) 0.65
ported: 1.0@35hz 1.25@34hz

I would be off by .1

What you guys think?
Only hooked up With mono amp.

 

Tough to say. Haven't heard the SE's. I personally prefer a sub that is in an enclosure with more than minimum space requirements. It will play lower frequencies better, require less power, and sounds better IMO.

I personally would go with the JL. If I had to make a choice.

 

Thanks ! Prob will pick JL

 

This is the box that I have, offset so you can mount your amp right next to it! I like it a lot, it makes the trunk look really nice and you don't lose toooooo much room (it's a freaking small trunk no matter how you slice it). I just ordered a W6 for mine, so we'll see how that goes next week! I'm excited...

 

Before settling I would say go to a local car audio place that has both and listen to them first. You are investing a decent amount of money in to this purchase, you should definitely test out what you are paying for before you buy it. Don may be right, but everyone has their own personal preferences and may even listen to different types of music. Even if 1 sub is "better" than another, you may find you like the sound of the other one more. Just don't skimp out and buy a crappy sub that may die on you.

 

Yep, I always recommend trying to hear a sub before purchasing you can, or an audio equipment for that matter, though you can't hear anything with amps, so you have to go based on research and specs.

I personally like my sub to play low frequencies very well, so I stick with a sealed enclosure (wouldn't mind doing infinite baffle), I guess you can say larger subs, though I don't mind even running 8's, and I like a smooth response. Others like the boomy sort of sound, in which a bandpass or ported enclosure tuned higher would be the better way to go.

 

Forget JL, unless you like over paying for something. The RE Audio RE line is alright. The SX line is a major player, puts the W6 well in it's place in the back of the bus. I have a single RE Audio SX12D2 in my wifes SUV and that thing pounds. Pulled up to a guy with the 12" W6 and put it to shame.
Sorry, just do not like anything JL makes, they want way too much for their equipment, especially knowing that I can get better for less.

 

^^^

If you can get them at good deals they are worth it. But paying retail for them or what many shops charge I would go a much different route.

I remember some guy in a market tryin to sell me a CD so I thought I'd support him. Told him to show me something that gets low. He showed me several songs but they all peaked around 40 Hz. Popped my CD in and played the track and the guy was amazed. Looked at my trunk, saw an 18" Soundsplinter RL-p and told me "wow that sounds better than the W7's!" Also had a single DD 9515 on 750w that got louder in an Accord sedan than 2 W6's on a jl 1000/1 in a Scion xB by a full 3.1 dB, which theoretically, you need twice the power to achieve a 3 decibel gain.

Thing is, there aren't too many subs that you can run in such a small enclosure. JL is one of the few that can. Only reason why I'm going with JL is because I'm using the older W6 and it's practically brand new.... almost 12 year old sub with only 1 minute of play on a home theater amp. Plus it needs only 1.25 cubes for a 15 and needs only 500w and doesnt weigh much, though I'd love to have my TC-5200 but I don't want an 85 lb sub in the G.

 

I was going to go more towards the RE SE 10" , but like donpisto said the airspace of those enclosure aren't enough. I was reading at the RE SX model and It said that sealed box isn't recomended only ported at 1.0@35Hz - 1.25@34Hz