anyone used sound deadening materials on your cars?
#1
03-24-2009, 06:17 AM
anyone used sound deadening materials on your cars?
i planning to install some new speakers and sub for my car and im wondering if i can put some sound deadening on it on my own
***just the trunk for now
i saw a review about RAAMat by RAAMaudio and its pretty good. Also the price is very affordable
http://www.raamaudio.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi?p=pr
If ever you used a sound deadening material please post whats your overall experience with the product
***just the trunk for now
i saw a review about RAAMat by RAAMaudio and its pretty good. Also the price is very affordable
http://www.raamaudio.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi?p=pr
If ever you used a sound deadening material please post whats your overall experience with the product
#2
03-24-2009, 09:52 AM
Check out this thread
https://g35driver.com/forums/audio-v...adening-g.html
Raamat is the cheapest butyl based I have seen and I have heard good things. I went the ultra cheap route with some peel and seal and like it so far.
https://g35driver.com/forums/audio-v...adening-g.html
Raamat is the cheapest butyl based I have seen and I have heard good things. I went the ultra cheap route with some peel and seal and like it so far.
#3
03-24-2009, 09:52 AM
#5
03-24-2009, 05:01 PM
Registered User
#6
03-24-2009, 11:43 PM
#7
03-25-2009, 01:38 AM
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#8
03-25-2009, 01:51 AM
While I type up a long post, check out post #2 and on...
https://g35driver.com/forums/audio-v...n-install.html
And these vids:
And yes, I know, I locked my keys in the trunk, lol
https://g35driver.com/forums/audio-v...n-install.html
And these vids:
And yes, I know, I locked my keys in the trunk, lol
#9
03-25-2009, 02:11 AM
While I type up a long post, check out post #2 and on...
https://g35driver.com/forums/audio-v...n-install.html
And these vids:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cir2oaGL7Ic
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hig9ZouG2IY
And yes, I know, I locked my keys in the trunk, lol
https://g35driver.com/forums/audio-v...n-install.html
And these vids:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cir2oaGL7Ic
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hig9ZouG2IY
And yes, I know, I locked my keys in the trunk, lol
don, what speakers did you use w/ the "bass ilove you" vid?
it sounds very clear
did you put some sound deadening on the bottom?
#10
03-25-2009, 02:12 AM
I haven't really done much with the G, but I have quite a bit of experience with my previous car. I did numerous parts of the car as well. I've also used a variety of products.
Whatever you do, DO NOT go with eDead or Fatmat or any other Asphalt based deadener. In high temperatures they are not effective and can/will peel.
People rave about Dynamat, but just like Kleenex, it's just the brand, and not the only one out there. I used Dynamat Xtreme and I guess you can say it's sorta like JL products, in the sense that it is quite expensive and very popular. However, unlike JL Audio, even if you get it at a good deal I would not get it.
I don't like Dynamat Xtreme for several reasons. It's too tacky, not thick, and overpriced.
Raammat is a good product. Cost effective route and Rick knows what he is doing. It is a bit tacky like Dynamat Xtreme and is about the same thickness as Dynamat Xtreme.
If you want quality, it's going to come with a price, but not too bad of a price. I stand by Second Skin for my deadener needs. Damplifier is what I used in the Accord and it was very easy to work with. I thought Damplifier Pro was a waste of money till I actually won a free pack (just paid for shipping) and saw how much better it is than Damplifier.
Don't get me wrong, both Damplifier and Damplifier Pro are great, but if you want to do less work and get better deadening (thicker material) then get the Pro. Cost price is actually about the same. Pro might come out to be a tad cheaper I think when I did the calculations.
It is not as sticky as any of the others so if you don't place it in the proper area, you can immediately take it off (before even rolling) and not have issues reapplying it. Just because you can take it off easily doesn't mean it won't stay on, because it will. It works extremely well in high heat. I was in Arizona where the temps were close to 110 degrees and inside the trunk it was even hotter and I had no peeling whatsoever.
Price is a little more than Raammat, but if you are willing to pay the extra money for Second Skin, it's worth it. If you want to save some money, go with Raammat. They are the only 2 deadener brands I would actually recommend.
Customer service with both companies should be good. I havent dealt with Rick at Raammat, but I have numerous times with Ant from Second Skin. He will tell you exactly what you need and will not oversell you. He is located in Arizona so shipping charges aren't bad at all. If you're going to be at the 818 meet, I have a little bit of Damplifier Pro left that you can check out. Let me know and I'll bring it.
Theres much more to get into as far as your goals, including using different types of foams, improving midbass, etc.
Since you mentioned you are doing the trunk for just now, I highly recommend doing the inner portion of the trunk. It made a huge difference when i did it. But be prepared for cuts on your hands. Only tool needed is a roller. Screwdriver can be used for fine edges. Heat gun is not necessary at all. Time and patience is a must. Oh yeah, a good razor or a box cutter is good to use as well.
Don't cut out large pieces, unless it's on a large flat surface. If there's a lot of textured areas, like the trunk lid, then do smaller pieces. I plan on adding another layer of Damplifier Pro to my trunk lid and MAYBE a 3rd, not quite too sure yet.
If you're doing the trunk floor and walls then I would recommend getting Spectrum from Second Skin. It's a liquid based deadener, but you need to put quite a bit of it to be effective. If you have an air compressor you can buy their spray gun (or borrow mine). If you don't have an air compressor, then you can dilute it with water and just spray more, which is what I did. If you spray, cover the entire car so little particles do not get on the body. You'll end up having to use claybar or something to remove the dried particles.
You could still use the deadener mat, but it just won't be as easy. I think a good amount of the liquid deadener topped off with a good amount of deadener mat would be best, but if you do that, you need to wait a month for the liquid deadener to fully cure. Even though it hardens within a few hours, the inside still needs to dry.
If you want to take it a step further, you can use expanding foam to fill in the rear quarter panels and other areas, just make sure you prep the area well because any small crack will get filled and that could mean an area you don't want to get messy. To prevent this, just use painters tape.
That about sums it up for that portion, lol.
Whatever you do, DO NOT go with eDead or Fatmat or any other Asphalt based deadener. In high temperatures they are not effective and can/will peel.
People rave about Dynamat, but just like Kleenex, it's just the brand, and not the only one out there. I used Dynamat Xtreme and I guess you can say it's sorta like JL products, in the sense that it is quite expensive and very popular. However, unlike JL Audio, even if you get it at a good deal I would not get it.
I don't like Dynamat Xtreme for several reasons. It's too tacky, not thick, and overpriced.
Raammat is a good product. Cost effective route and Rick knows what he is doing. It is a bit tacky like Dynamat Xtreme and is about the same thickness as Dynamat Xtreme.
If you want quality, it's going to come with a price, but not too bad of a price. I stand by Second Skin for my deadener needs. Damplifier is what I used in the Accord and it was very easy to work with. I thought Damplifier Pro was a waste of money till I actually won a free pack (just paid for shipping) and saw how much better it is than Damplifier.
Don't get me wrong, both Damplifier and Damplifier Pro are great, but if you want to do less work and get better deadening (thicker material) then get the Pro. Cost price is actually about the same. Pro might come out to be a tad cheaper I think when I did the calculations.
It is not as sticky as any of the others so if you don't place it in the proper area, you can immediately take it off (before even rolling) and not have issues reapplying it. Just because you can take it off easily doesn't mean it won't stay on, because it will. It works extremely well in high heat. I was in Arizona where the temps were close to 110 degrees and inside the trunk it was even hotter and I had no peeling whatsoever.
Price is a little more than Raammat, but if you are willing to pay the extra money for Second Skin, it's worth it. If you want to save some money, go with Raammat. They are the only 2 deadener brands I would actually recommend.
Customer service with both companies should be good. I havent dealt with Rick at Raammat, but I have numerous times with Ant from Second Skin. He will tell you exactly what you need and will not oversell you. He is located in Arizona so shipping charges aren't bad at all. If you're going to be at the 818 meet, I have a little bit of Damplifier Pro left that you can check out. Let me know and I'll bring it.
Theres much more to get into as far as your goals, including using different types of foams, improving midbass, etc.
Since you mentioned you are doing the trunk for just now, I highly recommend doing the inner portion of the trunk. It made a huge difference when i did it. But be prepared for cuts on your hands. Only tool needed is a roller. Screwdriver can be used for fine edges. Heat gun is not necessary at all. Time and patience is a must. Oh yeah, a good razor or a box cutter is good to use as well.
Don't cut out large pieces, unless it's on a large flat surface. If there's a lot of textured areas, like the trunk lid, then do smaller pieces. I plan on adding another layer of Damplifier Pro to my trunk lid and MAYBE a 3rd, not quite too sure yet.
If you're doing the trunk floor and walls then I would recommend getting Spectrum from Second Skin. It's a liquid based deadener, but you need to put quite a bit of it to be effective. If you have an air compressor you can buy their spray gun (or borrow mine). If you don't have an air compressor, then you can dilute it with water and just spray more, which is what I did. If you spray, cover the entire car so little particles do not get on the body. You'll end up having to use claybar or something to remove the dried particles.
You could still use the deadener mat, but it just won't be as easy. I think a good amount of the liquid deadener topped off with a good amount of deadener mat would be best, but if you do that, you need to wait a month for the liquid deadener to fully cure. Even though it hardens within a few hours, the inside still needs to dry.
If you want to take it a step further, you can use expanding foam to fill in the rear quarter panels and other areas, just make sure you prep the area well because any small crack will get filled and that could mean an area you don't want to get messy. To prevent this, just use painters tape.
That about sums it up for that portion, lol.
#11
03-25-2009, 02:20 AM
The sub is an 18" TC Sounds TC-5200 (aka Eclipse Titanium Pro). TC Sounds made alot of the products for Eclipse back in the day, but not anymore
As for the deadener, where do you mean on the bottom? Maybe this will answer your question but I put deadener in the following areas, and some much more than others:
-All door (inner and outer portion)
- Trunk floor, walls, and lid
- Bottom of rear seats
- C pillars
- Rear quarter panels
- Front and rear fenders and wheel wells
- Upper and lower rear deck
- Hood
- Tail lights
- License plate
- Firewall
I wasn't done yet either but got in an accident and car was replaced by the G. Hard to see some of the pics, and some were "in process" pics, but this link has a few pictures:
http://secondskinaudio.com/rides-user.php?userride=117
This thread has the majority of the work I did. It's quite long, but could give you ideas for the G.
http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showth...ghlight=accord
BTW: The black stuff is the liquid deadener. Thank goodness it's not blue like the eDead stuff. Another good liquid form of deadener is made by Cascade, but not sure if it is still made anymore.
#12
03-25-2009, 02:26 AM
#13
03-25-2009, 02:30 AM
Yeah, they were worth every penny. I barely had the gain up on the amp, literally a couple notches. It was even able to keep up when I had 3,000w goin to the sub....or while doing low 140 dB on the official mic they use for competitions. No need for rear speakers.
If you don't get the K2P's and are interested in the Zapco's let me know. The dealer I got mine from is located in Pico Rivera. Alot of it has to do with using a processor. More preout voltage and using time alignment, and messing with other EQ settings really helps. You can obtain the same thing with the K2P's if you go with that route.
If you don't get the K2P's and are interested in the Zapco's let me know. The dealer I got mine from is located in Pico Rivera. Alot of it has to do with using a processor. More preout voltage and using time alignment, and messing with other EQ settings really helps. You can obtain the same thing with the K2P's if you go with that route.
#14
03-25-2009, 02:34 AM
#15
03-25-2009, 02:41 AM
