Easy Amp add-on
#1
Easy Amp add-on
I was looking to add a sub & amp to my existing OEM premium system (coupe). After hearing the powered subs out there (basslink, bazooka), I decided they didn't have quite enough boom, so I went the separate amp + sub route. My second problem was that I didn't want to fiddle with LOCs or jerry a remote-on line from the head unit. I came across this amp, which is perfect for what I was looking for. Granted, it's not a JL or Zapco, but it's more than enough to compliment the OEM system with the capacity to keep up with higher end components when I upgrade. The amp: MTX Thunder801D mono sub amp; Key features: Class D, Smart Engage function that turns the amp on and off when it gets a signal from the high level inputs, 500 watts RMS @ 12.5 VDC 2 ohms, variable low pass filter, rudimentary EQ, high level input modular quick-release plug, high and low level inputs (cannot use Smart Engage with low level/RCA inputs).
I just spliced the rear deck speaker wires at the factory Bose amp, ran a hot wire from the battery to the trunk, put a fuse and stiffening capacitor in-line, mounted the amp and capacitor to the box, grounded everything to a bolt in the trunk/back seat opening, and connected the amp to a Kicker CompVR 10" DVC 4 ohm (wired in parallel for a 2 ohm load) in a sealed wedge enclosure. The enclosure is on its "back," wedged in between the 6"x9"s with the speaker firing up into the rear deck.
Since everything is mounted on the box, I can easily remove the whole subwoofer system by unplugging the high level input modular plug, and unscrewing two big capacitor bolts. The speaker is a cheapie, but quite capable, and I wanted to play with the system (i.e. inevitably blow a subwoofer) before I build a custom enclosure and get an Orion H2.
The true beauty of this amp is that I didn't have to mess with low level inputs/LOCs, nor did I need a remote-on/antenna line. Just splice the high level factory speaker/Bose amp input wires to the MTX, and whenever I turn on the factory HU, voilá, the thing powers up and I'm good to go. This amp seems to have been designed specifically for an OEM add-on, quick removal application. Won't win competitions but an old guy in an Oldsmobile pulled over to let me pass him because my bass was slamming in his earhole. No offense to any old guys out there.
http://www.mtx.com/caraudio/products...dexThunder.cfm
I just spliced the rear deck speaker wires at the factory Bose amp, ran a hot wire from the battery to the trunk, put a fuse and stiffening capacitor in-line, mounted the amp and capacitor to the box, grounded everything to a bolt in the trunk/back seat opening, and connected the amp to a Kicker CompVR 10" DVC 4 ohm (wired in parallel for a 2 ohm load) in a sealed wedge enclosure. The enclosure is on its "back," wedged in between the 6"x9"s with the speaker firing up into the rear deck.
Since everything is mounted on the box, I can easily remove the whole subwoofer system by unplugging the high level input modular plug, and unscrewing two big capacitor bolts. The speaker is a cheapie, but quite capable, and I wanted to play with the system (i.e. inevitably blow a subwoofer) before I build a custom enclosure and get an Orion H2.
The true beauty of this amp is that I didn't have to mess with low level inputs/LOCs, nor did I need a remote-on/antenna line. Just splice the high level factory speaker/Bose amp input wires to the MTX, and whenever I turn on the factory HU, voilá, the thing powers up and I'm good to go. This amp seems to have been designed specifically for an OEM add-on, quick removal application. Won't win competitions but an old guy in an Oldsmobile pulled over to let me pass him because my bass was slamming in his earhole. No offense to any old guys out there.
http://www.mtx.com/caraudio/products...dexThunder.cfm
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