I did a search, but no luck.

Anyone know how to take off the "pressed board" on the back of the rear seat of the coupe.

I have taken the whole seat out, and of course can take flip open that little flap, but I'm having trouble getting the whole thing off.

I know I *could* mount the amp just by screwing into the thin plywood stuff, but I prefer to mount MDF to the metal brackets inside there if possible.

I see some screws/bolts/nuts that would probably help to take the thing off, but they're damn near impossible to get to. Anything else?

Here's a pic of what I'm talking about... (pic selfishly stolen from NYCG35

Thanks for any help anyone can provide

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2004 TB/W 6mt Coupe. Sunroof only.
Bel Vector 985 Hardwired.
Grounding Kit.
Splash Guards.
Custom Carputer.
Custom FG Sub Enclosure.

308292-seat.jpg

 

I went to OSH hardware and found some Birch wood strips (~3" wide X ~12" long X ~1/4" deep) and placed them behind the pressed board and the seat cushion approximately the same width apart as the amps. I used 1" self tapping wood screws to secure the amps to the Birch strips with success.

I hope this helps!


BLKSNAKE - '04 G35 Coupe
Check out my hidden sub! [img]/w3timages/icons/laugh.gif[/img]

 

My small concern with "re-enforcing" that area:

I think one of the reasons bass travels out of the trunk so well in the coupe is because the seat backs do have such a thin material there. Every other car I've had with a pass-through has had a steel-backed seat, and the result has always been miserably muffled "trunk bass" with the seats up. The coupe sounds wonderful with the rear seatbacks up in comparison, despite the small rear deck.

There's so much that goes into why some cars sound better than others, but I'm just mentioning that you may want to do an a/b comparison before and after putting MDF up permanently and ensure that bass still travels into the cabin well ... If you have subs, of course! I think blksnake's method of using strips to secure the amps would give you enough strength without creating an unnecessary barrier

 

Yeah there's a 12" sub in a custom made (by me!) fiberglass enclosure back there, similar to blksnake's design (thanks for the idea!!!)

I definately see what you are talking about with allowing the bass to enter the cabin easily because of the cheap plywood stuff.

blksnake, so just to make sure I know what you're talking about... you bought those strips of wood, then made holes in the two strips to line up with your amp mount holes.
Then you made holes in the plywood to match with the amp mounts, just to make sure all three (amp, plywood, birchwood) line up perfectly.
Finally you slid the two strips under the plywood, and used your wood screws to grab into the birchwood.

Does this sound like what you did, more or less?

Also, what makes sure that the two strips of birtchwood don't slide around? Is it based solely on the fact that the screws are going through the holes on the plywood? Just curious.

Thanks for the help guys, much appreciated.

---
2004 TB/W 6mt Coupe. Sunroof only.
Bel Vector 985 Hardwired.
Grounding Kit.
Splash Guards.
Custom Carputer.
Custom FG Sub Enclosure.

 

wizawuza,
That's exactly what I did. Once the boards were in place they stayed put when I mounted the amps. (It's a tight fit between the pressboard and the seat cushion.

Be sure to post pics of your setup, I'm anxious to see it!


BLKSNAKE - '04 G35 Coupe
Check out my hidden sub! [img]/w3timages/icons/laugh.gif[/img]

 

thanks for the help.. once phase II of this carputer/audio project is done, I'll post pictures. Phase I has been done for a while.

While phase I is definately working (I can use the computer for mp3's, gps, etc...), the presentation of it all is just too ugly...

Thanks again.

---
2004 TB/W 6mt Coupe. Sunroof only.
Bel Vector 985 Hardwired.
Grounding Kit.
Splash Guards.
Custom Carputer.
Custom FG Sub Enclosure.