dont know about the service engine light...???

post pics soon!

04 / BO / G / aero / splash / prem / perf / cc / 22%tint
z-tube / k&n drop-in / Eclipse AVN / side-blinker mod

 

try to do the 'quick' ecu reset.... its in the diy forum

<font color=green>-Rambo</font color=green>
G35c-6MT-DG/Willow/HyperGround/BorlaExhaust/350Z-intake/AVIC-N1-double-din

 

1

 

thanks Rambo....the quick reset got rid of the "service engine soon" light

now...time for pics.... I have the pics on a server at school....i can't attach them here because they're over 100K

can i use html tags here to post pics..? so u guys dont have to click to another site to see the pics

 

btw...pics are at this link

http://www.cs.ucr.edu/~rvuu/pics/double%20din/

<P ID="edit"><FONT class="small"><EM>Edited by ramborami on 07/26/04 10:12 AM.</EM></FONT></P>

 

cool richie, looks good. Could look a little better though if you dont mind me making 2 suggestions...

I have the Pioneer AVIC-N1 and im sure its just as deep as your AVH unit. So, what I did was I drilled 4 holes in the double-din bracket exactly 1/2" back from the stock holes. That way the headunit can sit more flush with the dash and you can get rid of that silver mounting ring.

The second suggestion is that once you do this, then the dash din pocket can be mounted flush and it will look great.

First of all though, make sure you have enough room behind the headunit in its current position, probably at least 1" of 1 1/2" back there. Because you need room for the wires to go down AND you need room for the headunit to breathe.

<font color=green>-Rambo</font color=green>
G35c-6MT-DG/Willow/HyperGround/BorlaExhaust/350Z-intake/AVIC-N1-double-din<P ID="edit"><FONT class="small"><EM>Edited by ramborami on 07/26/04 10:15 AM.</EM></FONT></P>

 

thanks Rambo for the suggestions.....hehehe...wish I knew about this before I put everything back together..... I guess I'll work on if I get bored and feel like taking apart the dash again. The plastic piece in front of the clock is the hard part. I dont wanna take that thing out again....I got a huge blister on my thumb the first time I took it off. Is it easier to get off the second time?

 

hey rambo...was it hard for you to get the deck in the dash kit piece? for me it was really hard....seemed like the dash kit wasn't wide enough...i had to use lots of force to put the deck in.

man....don't want to rip that stuff out again...LOL....i think when im not as tired I'll do it again...but I spent about 10 hours on everything

 

how about a smaller dash pocket? do they sell those? maybe I could find one that would fit.

 

hey,
Yeah for me it was easy to put it in, did you remove that metal aluminum piece that comes with the headunit that surrounds the front of it?

As for that black plastic piece ontop of the double-din dash, YOU DONT NEED TO REMOVE IT!!! Just keep it in the top, the dash comes out easily. I wish i knew this earlier because i ended up breaking 1 clip of the 4.

I've ripped out my dash about 3 more times since the first time i did it. Its easier every time..... takes only 5 minutes to take apart the entire thing now.

If you had to use alot of force then maybe something was in the way. First step is to screw the HU into the bracket, then screw the bracket into the double-din dash. Then route the A/C controller wire to the side so that there is enough space to put the dash into the car.

<font color=green>-Rambo</font color=green>
G35c-6MT-DG/Willow/HyperGround/BorlaExhaust/350Z-intake/AVIC-N1-double-din

 

yea i removed that metal piece in front of the headunit. If you don't remove that black plastic piece above the double din dash, how can you get to the screw behind the clock?

Nothing was in the way, I had to put in a lot of elbow greese to get the deck through the hole. I mounted the HU on the bracket then when it came time to put the headunit through the double din dash, it wouldnt go through....very difficult actually.

 

ohhhhh your talking about THAT dash piece.... haha yeah its a pain to get out of there, but by the 4th or 5th time you remove it, the metal clips get a bit worn and so it will pull out easier the next time. [img]/w3timages/icons/smile.gif[/img]

As for the deck, i dont remember mine being too tough to get through the din hole, i think i might have bent the sides by hand temporarily to force it through.

The first day of my install took nearly 9 hours.
The next day i decided to rip it apart again and drill the 1/2" back holes. This took only 3 hours total from start to finish!!! [img]/w3timages/icons/smile.gif[/img] it was well worth it.

How is your AM radio reception by the way? Mine is on and off, its hard to explain. Some days it works great some days its as if the antenna is not even plugged in.

FM works great all-the time though.

I tried messing with the blue wire from the HU and the green/white wire from the harness/antenna to no avail.

<font color=green>-Rambo</font color=green>
G35c-6MT-DG/Willow/HyperGround/BorlaExhaust/350Z-intake/AVIC-N1-double-din<P ID="edit"><FONT class="small"><EM>Edited by ramborami on 07/27/04 12:22 AM.</EM></FONT></P>

 

AM radio reception....I havent tried it out yet...I dont really listen to AM radio.

Got a question for you, I'm having a little problem with my basslink. It won't turn on. I'm pretty sure I connected everything right. I connected the power wire to the Positive side of the battery. I grounded the basslink to one of the holes between the trunk and the backseat. My only guess is that something is up with the remote wire. I connected the remote wire to the blue/white wire coming out of the Pioneer deck. In the manual, here is the description for the Blue/white wire: "When the source is switched ON, a control signal is output. To system control terminal of the power amp." That sounds right, right guys?

Am I missing anything?

I turn the key to the ON position, deck powers up but the Power LED on the basslink stays off.

 

But even if something is wrong with the remote connection, the POWER Led on the basslink should still be lit right?

 

nevermind...figured out the problem.....bad ground

here is where i grounded it

http://www.cs.ucr.edu/~rvuu/pics/dou...n/100_3098.JPG

under that black plastic screw thing....then i pushed the black screw with my finger the basslink turns on....so now i need to find a metal screw that i could use to make the connection TIGHT....am i even able to screw in a bolt if the hole is not threaded?