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car lags with regualr bass and amp shut off with differnt songs volume

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Old Feb 4, 2010 | 10:19 AM
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I'd drive a single one of those subs from the Orion amp. It actually is CEA2006 compliant at 1x250 watts RMS @ 2 ohm.
 
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Old Feb 4, 2010 | 10:19 AM
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oh today the bass wasn't even on loud and the car hesitated for a min
 
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Old Feb 4, 2010 | 10:19 AM
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If the amp is going into protection then the ground is almost definitely your issue. Either that or wires are crossed and short circuiting somewhere. You'll be having to rip out the amp and checking just about ALL of the wires. Ensure proper, tight connections and make sure no metal from the wires is exposed anywhere other than the contact pins at the amp and your ground connection.
 
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Old Feb 4, 2010 | 10:20 AM
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Originally Posted by randy021186
can someone give me a good ground spot?
Bolts holding the rear seatbacks in place will work, so long as you make sure there's bare, exposed metal against the ground terminal.
 
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Old Feb 4, 2010 | 11:53 AM
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Spare tire mount.
 
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Old Feb 4, 2010 | 12:59 PM
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will take pics today. this guy had the same problem...i am still unsure how he fixed it.

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I had my setup installed at a Circuit City. I think they ran the signal from the app. Reason being was the signal was just not strong enough from the HU. The first time I got the car back when they were done, it was clearly not loud enough (for the apps that I had installed). The signal was weak even when I turned up the app gain. When they went post bose amp, it was much better. however, there is that EQ issue. Mainly I hear it in the mid range area on some vocal's. And only depending on which notes they hit. most the time its ok at regular listening levels.

I have an 03' Sedan. I really need to change out the HU, but the cost is pissing me off.
I have a question for any one that has at least 500W RMS of amps in there ride. Do you lose any power when your bass is up a lot? Meaning from the car itself. Such as hitting the gas, and feeling any jerkiness to the flow? At normal 50+ MPH speeds I don't notice it. only at low city speeds does it seem to be there. I have a total of about 1400W RMS in Amps. I have a 3 Farad cap (which should be sufficient for 3,000 Watts peak). I noticed that at heavy hits, the voltage goes do the low 12v and can go to 11.8v at worst. Normal voltage reads about 14.2-14.5v. I don't know if that is a lot. Maybe a bigger battery, or alternator? Or is even a bigger cap in order?

https://g35driver.com/forums/audio-v...5-coupe-4.html
 
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Old Feb 4, 2010 | 01:07 PM
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Are you spliced into the factory bose power wire or did you run 4 gauge straight from the battery back? You're pulling a lot of power for that amp, you need to have adequate wiring all the way back. As said repeatedly as well, check all of your grounds. Double check them.
 
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Old Feb 4, 2010 | 03:54 PM
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or should i use the second amp?
 
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Old Feb 4, 2010 | 03:55 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Ginevan
Spare tire mount.
no a bad idea but will use the back seat bolt
 
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Old Feb 4, 2010 | 03:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Bauer418
Are you spliced into the factory bose power wire or did you run 4 gauge straight from the battery back? You're pulling a lot of power for that amp, you need to have adequate wiring all the way back. As said repeatedly as well, check all of your grounds. Double check them.
running a fuse 4 gauge from the Battery
 
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Old Feb 4, 2010 | 03:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Wrathernaut
I'd drive a single one of those subs from the Orion amp. It actually is CEA2006 compliant at 1x250 watts RMS @ 2 ohm.
but i have a custom box for 2...check the pics
 
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Old Feb 4, 2010 | 05:10 PM
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find metal (the entire trunk pretty much), sand down to bare metal get a self tapping screw, go for silver

I'd say the reason your dropping so much is due to the fact that you're A) underpowering your subs and it's sucking too much current. and B) depending on your wiring manufacturer your 4 gauge may not be 4AWG you should always look at the wiring cross section before buying, or stay with brand names like Tsunami, Stinger, Street Wires etc. And lastly, if your ground is bad you aren't completing the circuit thus you're not getting the true potential. it's like trying to suck a watermelon through a straw... you might be able to get some juice but you won't get the entire thing
 
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Old Feb 4, 2010 | 05:17 PM
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Originally Posted by TroysG
find metal (the entire trunk pretty much), sand down to bare metal get a self tapping screw, go for silver

I'd say the reason your dropping so much is due to the fact that you're A) underpowering your subs and it's sucking too much current. and B) depending on your wiring manufacturer your 4 gauge may not be 4AWG you should always look at the wiring cross section before buying, or stay with brand names like Tsunami, Stinger, Street Wires etc. And lastly, if your ground is bad you aren't completing the circuit thus you're not getting the true potential. it's like trying to suck a watermelon through a straw... you might be able to get some juice but you won't get the entire thing
will sand everything down and try the ground again
 
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Old Feb 4, 2010 | 05:50 PM
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Originally Posted by randy021186
or should i use the second amp?
Upgrade your wiring, pushing 1200 watts through that tiny 20 gauge is ridiculous.

I think it's your ground, Mine is the spare tire mount like said before. As stated, sand the ground spot down to bare metal.
 
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Old Feb 4, 2010 | 06:27 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by randy021186
but i have a custom box for 2...check the pics
But your amp can barely power one of those.

You still should be getting a much, much beefier amp for those two subs, but to keep from frying an amp and your subs, power just one of them for now.

And now that I'm not at work I can see the pictures.

Definitely need some thicker wiring from the Orion amp to a single sub, with a nice bare-metal ground.

This will keep things decent until you get a really beefy 2-channel amp for your subs.
 
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