car lags with regualr bass and amp shut off with differnt songs volume
#17
02-04-2010, 10:19 AM
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#18
02-04-2010, 10:19 AM
If the amp is going into protection then the ground is almost definitely your issue. Either that or wires are crossed and short circuiting somewhere. You'll be having to rip out the amp and checking just about ALL of the wires. Ensure proper, tight connections and make sure no metal from the wires is exposed anywhere other than the contact pins at the amp and your ground connection.
#21
02-04-2010, 12:59 PM
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will take pics today. this guy had the same problem...i am still unsure how he fixed it.
djphatinc
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I had my setup installed at a Circuit City. I think they ran the signal from the app. Reason being was the signal was just not strong enough from the HU. The first time I got the car back when they were done, it was clearly not loud enough (for the apps that I had installed). The signal was weak even when I turned up the app gain. When they went post bose amp, it was much better. however, there is that EQ issue. Mainly I hear it in the mid range area on some vocal's. And only depending on which notes they hit. most the time its ok at regular listening levels.
I have an 03' Sedan. I really need to change out the HU, but the cost is pissing me off.
I have a question for any one that has at least 500W RMS of amps in there ride. Do you lose any power when your bass is up a lot? Meaning from the car itself. Such as hitting the gas, and feeling any jerkiness to the flow? At normal 50+ MPH speeds I don't notice it. only at low city speeds does it seem to be there. I have a total of about 1400W RMS in Amps. I have a 3 Farad cap (which should be sufficient for 3,000 Watts peak). I noticed that at heavy hits, the voltage goes do the low 12v and can go to 11.8v at worst. Normal voltage reads about 14.2-14.5v. I don't know if that is a lot. Maybe a bigger battery, or alternator? Or is even a bigger cap in order?
https://g35driver.com/forums/audio-v...5-coupe-4.html
djphatinc
Registered User Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 36
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I had my setup installed at a Circuit City. I think they ran the signal from the app. Reason being was the signal was just not strong enough from the HU. The first time I got the car back when they were done, it was clearly not loud enough (for the apps that I had installed). The signal was weak even when I turned up the app gain. When they went post bose amp, it was much better. however, there is that EQ issue. Mainly I hear it in the mid range area on some vocal's. And only depending on which notes they hit. most the time its ok at regular listening levels.
I have an 03' Sedan. I really need to change out the HU, but the cost is pissing me off.
I have a question for any one that has at least 500W RMS of amps in there ride. Do you lose any power when your bass is up a lot? Meaning from the car itself. Such as hitting the gas, and feeling any jerkiness to the flow? At normal 50+ MPH speeds I don't notice it. only at low city speeds does it seem to be there. I have a total of about 1400W RMS in Amps. I have a 3 Farad cap (which should be sufficient for 3,000 Watts peak). I noticed that at heavy hits, the voltage goes do the low 12v and can go to 11.8v at worst. Normal voltage reads about 14.2-14.5v. I don't know if that is a lot. Maybe a bigger battery, or alternator? Or is even a bigger cap in order?
https://g35driver.com/forums/audio-v...5-coupe-4.html
#22
02-04-2010, 01:07 PM
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02-04-2010, 03:54 PM
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#24
02-04-2010, 03:55 PM
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#25
02-04-2010, 03:58 PM
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Are you spliced into the factory bose power wire or did you run 4 gauge straight from the battery back? You're pulling a lot of power for that amp, you need to have adequate wiring all the way back. As said repeatedly as well, check all of your grounds. Double check them.
#26
02-04-2010, 03:59 PM
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#27
02-04-2010, 05:10 PM
find metal (the entire trunk pretty much), sand down to bare metal get a self tapping screw, go for silver 
I'd say the reason your dropping so much is due to the fact that you're A) underpowering your subs and it's sucking too much current. and B) depending on your wiring manufacturer your 4 gauge may not be 4AWG you should always look at the wiring cross section before buying, or stay with brand names like Tsunami, Stinger, Street Wires etc. And lastly, if your ground is bad you aren't completing the circuit thus you're not getting the true potential. it's like trying to suck a watermelon through a straw... you might be able to get some juice but you won't get the entire thing
I'd say the reason your dropping so much is due to the fact that you're A) underpowering your subs and it's sucking too much current. and B) depending on your wiring manufacturer your 4 gauge may not be 4AWG you should always look at the wiring cross section before buying, or stay with brand names like Tsunami, Stinger, Street Wires etc. And lastly, if your ground is bad you aren't completing the circuit thus you're not getting the true potential. it's like trying to suck a watermelon through a straw... you might be able to get some juice but you won't get the entire thing
#28
02-04-2010, 05:17 PM
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find metal (the entire trunk pretty much), sand down to bare metal get a self tapping screw, go for silver
I'd say the reason your dropping so much is due to the fact that you're A) underpowering your subs and it's sucking too much current. and B) depending on your wiring manufacturer your 4 gauge may not be 4AWG you should always look at the wiring cross section before buying, or stay with brand names like Tsunami, Stinger, Street Wires etc. And lastly, if your ground is bad you aren't completing the circuit thus you're not getting the true potential. it's like trying to suck a watermelon through a straw... you might be able to get some juice but you won't get the entire thing
I'd say the reason your dropping so much is due to the fact that you're A) underpowering your subs and it's sucking too much current. and B) depending on your wiring manufacturer your 4 gauge may not be 4AWG you should always look at the wiring cross section before buying, or stay with brand names like Tsunami, Stinger, Street Wires etc. And lastly, if your ground is bad you aren't completing the circuit thus you're not getting the true potential. it's like trying to suck a watermelon through a straw... you might be able to get some juice but you won't get the entire thing
#29
02-04-2010, 05:50 PM
#30
02-04-2010, 06:27 PM
But your amp can barely power one of those.
You still should be getting a much, much beefier amp for those two subs, but to keep from frying an amp and your subs, power just one of them for now.
And now that I'm not at work I can see the pictures.
Definitely need some thicker wiring from the Orion amp to a single sub, with a nice bare-metal ground.
This will keep things decent until you get a really beefy 2-channel amp for your subs.
You still should be getting a much, much beefier amp for those two subs, but to keep from frying an amp and your subs, power just one of them for now.
And now that I'm not at work I can see the pictures.
Definitely need some thicker wiring from the Orion amp to a single sub, with a nice bare-metal ground.
This will keep things decent until you get a really beefy 2-channel amp for your subs.