car lags with regualr bass and amp shut off with differnt songs volume
#1
02-03-2010, 06:48 PM
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FIXED-Got pics-car lags with regualr bass and amp shut off with differnt songs volume
i just installed an amp 1200watt (600 rms) with 2 ohm 2channel with subs 2x10 kickers l7 2400watts (1200rms)
i am having a problem
1)with some songs/cd the bass would be good then all of the sudden hit hard and the amp would shut down and go back on right away
2)when the bass is staple and hits hard....when driving i feel a jerk/surge as if the car is loosing power.
background.installation
2003 bose coupe, i tapped into the rear using a hi/lo converter on then to the amp then to the subs...
i have a logic amp
http://www.etronics.com/p-17120-logi...amplifier.aspx
and 2 kickers L7 2400 watts
i am having a problem
1)with some songs/cd the bass would be good then all of the sudden hit hard and the amp would shut down and go back on right away
2)when the bass is staple and hits hard....when driving i feel a jerk/surge as if the car is loosing power.
background.installation
2003 bose coupe, i tapped into the rear using a hi/lo converter on then to the amp then to the subs...
i have a logic amp
http://www.etronics.com/p-17120-logi...amplifier.aspx
and 2 kickers L7 2400 watts
Last edited by randy021186; 02-08-2010 at 09:38 AM. Reason: fixed
#2
02-03-2010, 07:05 PM
Your amp is a pile of trash, no other way to say it. There isn't a 600 watt RMS out there that you can get for $160. Maybe with a $16 crowbar. Return it if at all possible and get an amp with a real, legit, recognizable name on it. Pioneer, Alpine, whatever. Guarantee that any one of those brands for $160 will work better than that "add some zeros to it!" brand amp.
It's possible the amp is pretty much causing a mild short in your whole system... is it even fused? Just because it draws enough power to cause improper spark or whatever, doesn't mean it's good. 2 ohm "stable" as in if you're drawing 50RMS from it, it might work.
It's possible the amp is pretty much causing a mild short in your whole system... is it even fused? Just because it draws enough power to cause improper spark or whatever, doesn't mean it's good. 2 ohm "stable" as in if you're drawing 50RMS from it, it might work.
#3
02-03-2010, 07:11 PM
Also when it hits hard and you feel the car lose power, that's exactly it, your sub is sucking so much juice out of your electrics in your car that your car doesn't have enough juice in that split second.
Things to fix this are capacitors, bigger alternative, thicker wiring, and an isolated battery.
Whenever you go over 1000 watts, plan to spend about that much.
Wrathernaut is correct btw. Amp is junk. Why do you think there are amps that put out the same amount of power yet have a price tag that's 600 more?
Things to fix this are capacitors, bigger alternative, thicker wiring, and an isolated battery.
Whenever you go over 1000 watts, plan to spend about that much.
Wrathernaut is correct btw. Amp is junk. Why do you think there are amps that put out the same amount of power yet have a price tag that's 600 more?
#4
02-03-2010, 08:13 PM
Combination of a bad amp and probably bad wiring. Make sure there is no metal touching metal on the connections and use 4 gauge power wire for your amp. For a system like that, you'll probably want a capacitor like Ginevan says, and I can't agree more with Wrathernaut. Your amp needs to be replaced with a name brand, proven amp.
You may think you saved yourself money, but you'll be surprised when you see how easy it is to tear through a decent speaker just because a poor quality amp sends a distorted signal. Spend the money to do it right the first time, or you'll pay double to re-do the whole thing later. That's my advice.
You may think you saved yourself money, but you'll be surprised when you see how easy it is to tear through a decent speaker just because a poor quality amp sends a distorted signal. Spend the money to do it right the first time, or you'll pay double to re-do the whole thing later. That's my advice.
#5
02-04-2010, 09:23 AM
a cap is the wrong way to go
its something with wiring
im running a true 1200rms amp (nine.1) and a rockford p3002, another 300rms...1500rms total
no voltage drops, no car hesitation, no issues at all.
Either he crossed a wire somewhere or they grounded the amp to the fuel pump's ground or similar
its something with wiring
im running a true 1200rms amp (nine.1) and a rockford p3002, another 300rms...1500rms total
no voltage drops, no car hesitation, no issues at all.
Either he crossed a wire somewhere or they grounded the amp to the fuel pump's ground or similar
#7
02-04-2010, 10:05 AM
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Your amp is a pile of trash, no other way to say it. There isn't a 600 watt RMS out there that you can get for $160. Maybe with a $16 crowbar. Return it if at all possible and get an amp with a real, legit, recognizable name on it. Pioneer, Alpine, whatever. Guarantee that any one of those brands for $160 will work better than that "add some zeros to it!" brand amp.
It's possible the amp is pretty much causing a mild short in your whole system... is it even fused? Just because it draws enough power to cause improper spark or whatever, doesn't mean it's good. 2 ohm "stable" as in if you're drawing 50RMS from it, it might work.
It's possible the amp is pretty much causing a mild short in your whole system... is it even fused? Just because it draws enough power to cause improper spark or whatever, doesn't mean it's good. 2 ohm "stable" as in if you're drawing 50RMS from it, it might work.
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#8
02-04-2010, 10:08 AM
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Combination of a bad amp and probably bad wiring. Make sure there is no metal touching metal on the connections and use 4 gauge power wire for your amp. For a system like that, you'll probably want a capacitor like Ginevan says, and I can't agree more with Wrathernaut. Your amp needs to be replaced with a name brand, proven amp.
You may think you saved yourself money, but you'll be surprised when you see how easy it is to tear through a decent speaker just because a poor quality amp sends a distorted signal. Spend the money to do it right the first time, or you'll pay double to re-do the whole thing later. That's my advice.
You may think you saved yourself money, but you'll be surprised when you see how easy it is to tear through a decent speaker just because a poor quality amp sends a distorted signal. Spend the money to do it right the first time, or you'll pay double to re-do the whole thing later. That's my advice.
#9
02-04-2010, 10:10 AM
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a cap is the wrong way to go
its something with wiring
im running a true 1200rms amp (nine.1) and a rockford p3002, another 300rms...1500rms total
no voltage drops, no car hesitation, no issues at all.
Either he crossed a wire somewhere or they grounded the amp to the fuel pump's ground or similar
its something with wiring
im running a true 1200rms amp (nine.1) and a rockford p3002, another 300rms...1500rms total
no voltage drops, no car hesitation, no issues at all.
Either he crossed a wire somewhere or they grounded the amp to the fuel pump's ground or similar
#10
02-04-2010, 10:11 AM
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#11
02-04-2010, 10:13 AM
If that's the case then you'll also want to check your grounds. Sand off the surface that it connects to and make sure the wire makes as solid of a connection as possible. 1-3 feet of ground wire is fine, but the contact point is more important. Make sure you ground to the frame of the car.
#12
02-04-2010, 10:13 AM
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#13
02-04-2010, 10:15 AM
Just replace the POS amp now before it ruins your subs and other electronic components.
While installing the new one, re-check all the wiring you did. If the problem persists after installing a proven, quality amp, post back here.
So long as the ground wire from your amp is also 4 gage and solidly connected to bare metal, that's not the issue.
Even if there were no other issues, this amp is going to be working at well above its true maximum and burn out at very least itself, and torture or kill your alternator, battery and speakers the whole time its doing itself in.
While installing the new one, re-check all the wiring you did. If the problem persists after installing a proven, quality amp, post back here.
So long as the ground wire from your amp is also 4 gage and solidly connected to bare metal, that's not the issue.
Even if there were no other issues, this amp is going to be working at well above its true maximum and burn out at very least itself, and torture or kill your alternator, battery and speakers the whole time its doing itself in.
#14
02-04-2010, 10:17 AM
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If that's the case then you'll also want to check your grounds. Sand off the surface that it connects to and make sure the wire makes as solid of a connection as possible. 1-3 feet of ground wire is fine, but the contact point is more important. Make sure you ground to the frame of the car.
#15
02-04-2010, 10:18 AM
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