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car lags with regualr bass and amp shut off with differnt songs volume

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Old Feb 4, 2010 | 09:51 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Ginevan
Upgrade your wiring, pushing 1200 watts through that tiny 20 gauge is ridiculous.

I think it's your ground, Mine is the spare tire mount like said before. As stated, sand the ground spot down to bare metal.
The ground ain't gonna do squat. If your running high current through the existing amps power wires (which are like 16-20AWG i think), connecting even a 1/0 ground wire to a good ground point is not going to help anything.

Remember, the entire current loop is from battery through the positive wire, to the amp and back through the chassis.

You are going to have to run a dedicated wire from battery to your amp, especially if its 600 watts. Thats 50A of current at 12V.

I'm willing to bet your amp is shutting off because the voltage drop is so much across the power wire that its simply tripping the amp's undervoltage fault circuit.

So run that dedicated power wire. There is NO excuse not to! And ONLY THEN, work on your ground connection using the same gauge wire as your power wire.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2010 | 04:22 AM
  #32  
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He said in an earlier post (#8) that he had 4 guage power wire already.

Hopefully that was from the battery, and not spliced from the bose amp power wire.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2010 | 08:29 AM
  #33  
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My bad. You're right.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2010 | 09:28 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Ginevan
Upgrade your wiring, pushing 1200 watts through that tiny 20 gauge is ridiculous.

I think it's your ground, Mine is the spare tire mount like said before. As stated, sand the ground spot down to bare metal.
will try that today
 
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Old Feb 5, 2010 | 09:29 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Wrathernaut
He said in an earlier post (#8) that he had 4 guage power wire already.

Hopefully that was from the battery, and not spliced from the bose amp power wire.
its from the battery.....will a cap help with the insane dimming in my car?....there is so much yes and no about weather a cap works. whats your experience?
 
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Old Feb 5, 2010 | 09:32 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by liche
The ground ain't gonna do squat. If your running high current through the existing amps power wires (which are like 16-20AWG i think), connecting even a 1/0 ground wire to a good ground point is not going to help anything.

Remember, the entire current loop is from battery through the positive wire, to the amp and back through the chassis.

You are going to have to run a dedicated wire from battery to your amp, especially if its 600 watts. Thats 50A of current at 12V.

I'm willing to bet your amp is shutting off because the voltage drop is so much across the power wire that its simply tripping the amp's undervoltage fault circuit.

So run that dedicated power wire. There is NO excuse not to! And ONLY THEN, work on your ground connection using the same gauge wire as your power wire.
this is driving me crazy, i do have the wire 4 guage from the battery, and i had the same amp in a 96 maxima and there was a little drop with the rpm when the amp was all the way up.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2010 | 09:43 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by randy021186
its from the battery.....will a cap help with the insane dimming in my car?....there is so much yes and no about weather a cap works. whats your experience?
Caps aren't the best fix for that, but they do work. They store charge from the battery and alternator while the bass isn't hitting and when the bass demands more charge that can flow from the battery/alternator (lights dimming problem) then your cap has that charge readily available, depending on the rating of the cap (in farads). Personally, I think your bass is all kinds of overkill, but some people like to blow out their windows. a 300w Kicker is plenty for me. Since you have a decent amount of power, I'd recommend something around 2-5 farads.

Plus, Caps are relatively cheap as you'll see in the link below. 150-200 bucks, and it's not like it's going to Hurt your system. Might as well throw it in since your throwing 2.4Kw at your trunk speakers...

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_120PP10...apacitor&ssi=0
 
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Old Feb 5, 2010 | 09:47 AM
  #38  
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just curious how are these speaker suppose to be be wired? parallel? any on got a diagram for my bridge amp...
my current set up is bridged
my amp is 2 ohm and 4 bridged ....if i don't bridge it i can run +- to each speaker right?
 
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Old Feb 5, 2010 | 09:49 AM
  #39  
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I believe they're supposed to be in circuit, but I'm not very proficient in chaining subs. I like to keep each speaker on it's own channel.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2010 | 11:29 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by randy021186
just curious how are these speaker suppose to be be wired? parallel? any on got a diagram for my bridge amp...
my current set up is bridged
my amp is 2 ohm and 4 bridged ....if i don't bridge it i can run +- to each speaker right?
http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/wo...igurations.asp
 
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Old Feb 8, 2010 | 09:34 AM
  #41  
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Fixed.
Thanks to everyone who helped me. After doing alot of research, i found 2 problems.
1)My ground wasn't so great -but this didn't cause my crazy power dip
2)The audio shop told me i needed a new amp when i went there to fix it. I didn't believe them. i took the speakers apart and i saw that the back of the speaker shows 2 ohm each and the car has been wired to run at 4 ohms, parallel. I went on the kickers site and looked at the diagram and connected the + and - together and ran the wires parallel to the other side...(DVC)

All i can say is wow, those speakers hit with that amp,not the best amp but it hits clean and this just shows with a little bit of help and a lot of reading you can do anything. thanks everyone
 
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Old Feb 8, 2010 | 10:34 AM
  #42  
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Glad it's fixed.
 
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Old Feb 8, 2010 | 11:40 AM
  #43  
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Imagine how it sounds now as just a sample of what it would do with a real amp behind it.

Glad it's working now.
 
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Old Feb 8, 2010 | 12:23 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by Wrathernaut
Imagine how it sounds now as just a sample of what it would do with a real amp behind it.

Glad it's working now.
yeah i know, but to pull out $500+ for the amp plus a cap (btw looking to buy a cap) with factory speaker is not worth it right now, and I just bought the 2005 brake setup.

but dam the bose sound good with the factory bass off...i realize its when you turn up the bass on the factory bose and turn up the volume things sound distorted. Bose high + my setup sound pretty clean now

2 think i was going to waste more money with the dd/nav and stuff...oh and i got the cd err f0 3 hours after my install, but still have factory warranty then i am going to install http://www.gromaudio.com/usb.html Now i can play my touchpro2 (usb-16gb) or an ipod
 
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Old Feb 8, 2010 | 12:38 PM
  #45  
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Save money and put the cap in last. Whether they actually help or just look pretty is a pretty big can of worms (I think they just look cool and don't harm anything but your wallet) but they can pretty much just be dropped in the power wire at any time with nothing but some terminals and some wire cutters.

The last thing you want to short yourself on is the headunit, so keep saving those dimes man.
 
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