From my experience, I haven't listened to their lower line, but I have listened to their shallow series mids..IMHO, not worth getting it unless you need to. Lacks so much midbass. The Hi-Energy series is good, I liked them and I know several people that run them. The Mille is their top of the line. Heard it on a demo board so not quite so accurate. But if you're looking to spend money in that range, there's a few other speakers I'd consider taking a look at.

 

what speakers do you think i could get in the 1300 range, that includes 2 sets of 6.5s two 10" subs, amp(s) to run them, and all the accesories?

 

That becomes a little tough, especially if you're buying new. Subs can cost anywhere between 150-300 a piece easy (sometimes even more. Amps, about the same. Theres some cerwin vega amps that are priced well and put out some great power. Unfortunately the website that has the direct link to them is down currently. I'm a dealer for a few brands (scosche efx, clarion, jvc, pioneer, and a couple other brands).

I can suggest some from those but I can also make suggestions on some other brands that I dont carry (making a sale is not a big deal for me even though it would be nice, I prefer helping).

The Phoenix Gold RSD's are known to be pretty good components for their price...I think 100 or 150 new. Midbass is what they're known for and the tweeter is pretty good. Gotta decide what you want out of your system and choose the subs from there. If you're wanting something that pounds hard, get ready to spend big bucks, but if you want something that is pure sound quality, well, get ready to spend big bucks to because that's a whole 'nother level itself.

If you want something that sound good (doesn't sound like bass is overpowering the rest of the system at all or even too much) and gets pretty loud, then that also depends. You can away with several subs or large subs if they don't require much air space. If you want, I'm actually sellling my JL Audio 15W6. It's maybe 11 or 12 years old, I can't recall...but it has less than a minute of play (testing on home theater amp). I can tell you it'll get pretty darn loud (older W6 subs are superior to the new ones and true gurus would agree with me on that), it only needs 400-500w and for the 15, about 1.25 - 1.75 cubic ft. of space. Most 12's and even some 10's require that much. The older JL's are VERY efficient..this thing will sound so smooth. I was looking for a 2nd one but I decided to go with a pair of 18's for my car. Let me know if you're interested...there's many routes to go...that would be a good one but I'm not gonna push you towards something you dont wanna do.

 

I really think I want 2 10" subs so I can false wall them into my spare well. As for components I have heard those phoenixs are good but I have no where to hear them myself for the bass I want it to pound hard but I'm only comparing it to the Bose stock haha. So I guess it wouldn't be that hard for you audiophiles haha

 

I'll see when I have the chance how much room is in the spare tire well. Best way to determine that is with a bunch of packaging popcorn and filling it up to the top, then putting it in a 12 x 12 x 12 box. See how many boxes you get out of it since each one is 1 sq. ft.

Those 2 10's would require the same air space, if not more than the 15. Not trying to push the 15, but just speaking logic. Take for example a JL 10wv3. Each sub needs 0.625 cubic ft and 500w rms, thus you need 1,000w of power and 1.25 cubic ft of space. Here's the specs: http://mobile.jlaudio.com/pdfs/11232.pdf

On their w3 page it shows 300 is the optimum and 500 is the danger zone, that's to cover their ass. Because the 300w blow the sub unless the gains aren't set properly. Even then you would need 600w rms for both subs.

Now, the JL 15W6 needs 1.25 cu. ft. of air space...the SAME as TWO 10w3v3's. JL's are pretty efficient compared to other subs, so other subs may require 1 cu. ft. per sub, thus, approx 2 cu. ft. for both and then you gotta factor in power...probably 400-500w rms each, so you're looking at 800-1,000w typically. The 15W6 needs 400w rms only. Specs are here: http://mobile.jlaudio.com/pdfs/15_18W6_BDS.pdf

Comparing that you can tell why the JL 15W6 would be a superior choice, the reason why I bought it in the first place. Super efficient, light, gets low, gets loud...it's just non an 18 so I'm not using it anymore. This is also why audiophiles prefer the older W6's over the new ones...efficiency. I would never run JL in my audio setup, but that is only line I would, the older and discontinued W6 line.

Another thing you want to think about is cone area....whats the purpose of that? Well, the more cone area you have, the more output your setup will have. Here's how you figure that out.... Diameter of sub / 2. Then multiply the answer by the same number. Then multiply by 3.14 (pi). Then multiply by how many subs.

Example:

2 10's:
10 /2 = 5. 5 x 5 = 25. 25 x 3.14 = 78.5. 78.5 x 2 = 157 sq. in. of cone area

1 15":
15 / 2 = 7.5. 7.5 x 7.5 = 56.25. 56.25 x 3.14 = 176.625 sq. in.

You can see than you'll have more output with a single 15 than 2 10's and you'll need more more power for the 10's too.

In my situation, 2 15's have a cone area of 353.25 sq. ft. while 2 18's have a cone area of 508.68 sq. in. That's a huge difference. And when it comes to an infinite baffle setup as I'm doing, it's a HUUUGE difference.

I'm sure you may be thinking, but 15's and 18's aren't as fast as 10's (if you're not my bad on assuming, just wanted to cover all the bases). This is false..very incorrect. I've ran two different 18's in my previous car. I listen to all kinds of music....jazz, rap, metal, trance, etc. The 18's got SUPER low, you would FEEL frequencies and not hear them. Anything below 20 Hz, you're not going to hear, the human ear is incapable of anything outside the 20 Hz - 20,000 KHz range. I had tracks playing 14 Hz...you may think you hear it, but it's just vibrating panels. They would vibrate so much my headrests would change about 3" linear and about 2" or so with my windows. Back to my point, the larger subs I've had were on point, very smooth..it all depends on the subs specs...they were also on point with double bass...so when people would say my 18" is not as "quick" as their 10 I laughed and their 10 sounded sloppy missing some double bass notes.

Another thing about subs I choose are the Fs, I love a low Fs (resonant frequency). The higher it is, the more geared towards SPL competitions it is and you don't really want that because they really won't sound that great with music (talking about the 45-50 Hz Fs range. The 15W6 has an Fs of 16.3 Hz...my best 18 went down to 19 Hz so I'm surprised the JL can do that. That 18 was a TC Sounds TC-5200, aka Eclipse Titanium Pro...these subs easily sold for 800 bucks a pop.

That's not to say that 10's can't get low, I've had a 10 that can get low and get loud, louder than some 15's. I used to have a term lab (spl software and mic) so I would mess around with it. But say if you take the 10w3's, the Fs is not that bad actually 31.49 - 32.97 Hz (depending on the impedence of the coil you choose). Still, not even close the 15W6. I prefer an Fs in the 25 Hz range and below...for a smoother and lower output this is beneficial...It won't be punchy, rather smooth, that doesn't mean when there's a single bass note it's not going to hit, oh it will...but Kicker subs generally are very punchy and the bass sounds distorted to me, and that's what you'll get.

Anyhow, a bit of a rant, but that is a huge misconception people always look over (the actual specs of the sub), the size, and it's capabilities.

As for components, unless you hear them in a car, they're not going to sound the same. Hearing them on a soundboard is completely different than a car...totally different environment. The car is like an enclosure...its got only so much space..but inside a shop..think of how much bigger it is..it's going to sound different. Also, the settings and the amount of power one has them set at will make a difference.

 

^ Less yappin', more installin' Levon.

Whenever you do the infinite baffle, lemme know.

 

Lol Peter. Ummm, getting deadener next week. Going to meet up with Dan @ Image Dynamics and see if we can fit 2 18's IB. If I can, that's the route I shall go..seems like I can, just needs a lil work. You have factory integration or an aftermarket HU?

 

Thanks, I love how you spend your time writing up such informative replies, I really likes the look of calvinators two 10"s but your starting to convince me more toward your darn 15" haha, I'm still waiting on a PAC steering wheel switch for my DD then that will be installed and then comes all the stereo stuff, so it's coming...very soon. as of right now I only have about 1,300 so that's another limiting factor :/

 

If you're interested in a price, just PM me. Don't have to take me up on it, don't feel obligated. I just need to sell it so I can order the 18's or my batteries.

 

I got my quote for my hertz system and it's a 1000 watt audison amp for two 12" subs and then a set of components and a set of coaxials and a 300.4 audison amp for my speakers. The parts are 1400 but it's hertz's base line (energy) and 500 to install with the custom box and everything