After reading up on the trials and tribulations of people trying to run new wire through the molex connectors, I am pretty sure that is not something I want to spend my time doing.

How many of you that have replaced your door speakers have used the factory wiring? How did you handle the install of the crossover, and running wire to the tweeters?

I really would like to keep my sanity during my upcoming install.

 

I replaced my door speakers using factory wiring. As far as things that affect the sound quality in a car, it's about the bottom of the list. If you've got $400 speakers, vibration dampeners, foam and vinyl sound barriers and only listen to your car while stopped, you might hear a difference.

Running wire to the tweeters is a non-issue. Remove the sail panels and put the new one in with wire attached and run it to the crossover, that's it.

Depending on the size of your crossovers, there's several places to put them. The ones from my BA Pro60se's is huge, and I just removed the foam filler piece towards the rear of the door.

 

running the wires to the doors is not to bad if you take the doors off.

have someone help you

took me about 2 hours including getting the doors off.

if you are using co-ax you wont need to change any wires

if you are using seperate crossovers, then yes I would run new wires

use 20-18ga wire and it will make it much easier

no need for 14-16ga for door speakers

 

I used the pdf instructions a member posted on here before on how to run speaker wires through the Molex connectors. I'm not sure if there's less room to work with between the doors on the coupes but on my 03 Sedan w/Bose I found there was a decent amount of room to work with to get the molex plugs disconnected with the doors left on.

One thing though is that the wires coming out of the molex were different on my sedan than what was shown in the diy instructions, there wasn't a huge amount of empty space to drill through in the same exact area as shown on those screenshots. There is however an area of unused pins where you can drill a hole through and easily pass 16 gauge wires through which is what I did.

I honestly can't say if there's a difference in sound because I did a whole bunch of stuff at the same time like put in new amps and wired each speaker to a separate channel on my amp whereas before I was running my left side front & rear in parallel and right side front & rear in parallel to leave two channels for my sub. So overall my system sounds a whole lot better but most of it is likely due to fixing up the wiring going to my amps.

I am using the factory speaker wires on the coax speakers on my rear. I just did it for piece of mind and rather than having to tap in and solder to the factory wires at two locations (at the door & at the bose amp's connector) I could a single set of speaker wires all the way through. It probably took me a couple of hours per side to run the speaker wires through the molex and I never attempted something like this before.

 

Yeah, I really didn't want to remove doors.

I can tell you mine sounds great, I really don't think the factory wiring is a limiting factor to sound quality.

 

Well, after everyone's comments and some more Google-fu I feel much more comfortable using the stock factory wiring. Thanks for your input.

 

Keep us updated on how the install goes, never hurts to have more install experiences in this forum.

 

Does anyone know where the factory wiring splits to go between the woofer and the sail panel "tweeter"? Is it before or after the molex to the door?

 

It's after. U could feel the loom split inside the door panel. I just did 14 gauge through the molex connectors and it took me 3 hours to do it without taking the door off. It really wasn't that bad. Easy just takes long. I am almost done with my build and I will post when I am done. Everything i did was the right way.

 

Cool, thanks! If I want to run an active front stage, it sounds like I will have to run at least one extra set of speaker wire to the doors. I will probably just do two complete separate runs to the doors and leave the stock wiring alone in that case. Thanks.

Look forward to seeing your build log

 

no problem i will be finishing by the end of this week and will post it on the weekend. i ran 2 14 gauge wires to each door cause i wanted the crossover in the trunk for easier acess. they fit no problem.