Need help finding amp for my Kicker comp 10"
#1
Need help finding amp for my Kicker comp 10"
I bought a 10inch kicker comp vr10 for my G. I had an Alpine type E that I had to bring in twice for factory defects so decided to switch brand. I got the Kicker and didn't think about my amp's ability to power this thing and now it looks like I'll need to upgrade my amp. I have a Kicker amp that is bridged at 350watts rms. And my kicker sub is 800 peak & 50-400 RMS range.
So how big of an amp do I need? BestBuy kept trying to sell me one of their amps (Kenwood KAC-8105D) which is 1000Watts peak but I'm not sure if it will handle the Kickers 50-400 rms range. I don't want to blow anything and I'm also not looking to rattle my windows off.
Oh, also the kicker sub has 4 connectors instead of 2 like my alpine did. What difference is that going to make when choosing an amp?
Specs:
SUB
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_2061CVR...ures_and_specs
AMP (KAC-8105D)
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_113KAC8...ures_and_specs
So how big of an amp do I need? BestBuy kept trying to sell me one of their amps (Kenwood KAC-8105D) which is 1000Watts peak but I'm not sure if it will handle the Kickers 50-400 rms range. I don't want to blow anything and I'm also not looking to rattle my windows off.
Oh, also the kicker sub has 4 connectors instead of 2 like my alpine did. What difference is that going to make when choosing an amp?
Specs:
SUB
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_2061CVR...ures_and_specs
AMP (KAC-8105D)
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_113KAC8...ures_and_specs
#2
Peak power's pretty much irrelevant unless you're trying to impress high school kids in a wal-mart parking lot.
The 350w RMS kicker will be absolutely fine with a 400w max RMS subwoofer.
The four connectors is for dual voice coils, since it's dual 4ohm (according to the one you linked to) you can wire as a 2 ohm or 8 ohm load, so wire them up in parallel (both negatives together, both positives together) and it'll work just fine with your existing amp.
The 350w RMS kicker will be absolutely fine with a 400w max RMS subwoofer.
The four connectors is for dual voice coils, since it's dual 4ohm (according to the one you linked to) you can wire as a 2 ohm or 8 ohm load, so wire them up in parallel (both negatives together, both positives together) and it'll work just fine with your existing amp.
#3
Ah, I see so the Best Buy guy was just trying to sell me crap I don't need? Because upon looking up the specs on my existing amp, it says bridged is 175w x2.
Specs of my existing amp:
Performance
RMS Power Output (Watts x Channels) 60 x 4
Peak Power Output (Watts x Channels) N/A
Power at 2 Ohms (Watts x Channels) 90 x 4
Bridged Power (Watts x Channels) 175 x 2
Minimum Impedance Bridged 4
Minimum Impedance Unbridged 2
Best Frequency Response 20-20kHz Hz
THD at Rated RMS Power ---
Signal to Noise Ratio 95 dB
Input Voltage 14.4v
Specs of my existing amp:
Performance
RMS Power Output (Watts x Channels) 60 x 4
Peak Power Output (Watts x Channels) N/A
Power at 2 Ohms (Watts x Channels) 90 x 4
Bridged Power (Watts x Channels) 175 x 2
Minimum Impedance Bridged 4
Minimum Impedance Unbridged 2
Best Frequency Response 20-20kHz Hz
THD at Rated RMS Power ---
Signal to Noise Ratio 95 dB
Input Voltage 14.4v
#4
Your sub is dual voice coil so you can run two channels bridged into each voice coil. Do not run them in parallel, and each side will be a 4ohm load to each set of bridged outputs.
In other words, follow your amp's guide to doing 2x175 bridged mode. Treat each side of the amp as its own subwoofer.
If you can set the output mode on the amp to mono, do it.
In other words, follow your amp's guide to doing 2x175 bridged mode. Treat each side of the amp as its own subwoofer.
If you can set the output mode on the amp to mono, do it.
#7
No, that's for if you're running off a monoblock amp, you're essentially running off a 2-channel amp, since each pair of channels is bridged.
Oh, and the lines connecting terminals on each side may not be necessary, depending on your amp's method of bridging.
Should be more like this:
Oh, and the lines connecting terminals on each side may not be necessary, depending on your amp's method of bridging.
Should be more like this:
Last edited by Wrathernaut; 09-25-2010 at 05:35 PM.
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#10
If you really have a two-channel amp, not the specs you stated in the post referenced above, then this is correct, however, what is that thing between the amp and sub? Nothing should be between your amp and sub, unless it's a crossover or filter.
#11
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