Upgrading mids/high speakers on 03 Coupe w/ Bose 4 x6.5 and 2 x6x9 or just the 6.5s ?
Ok I have the 03' coupe w/ a pioneer dvd/navi head unit running on stock bose speakers and amp. I added dynamat in the trunk , a 4000W class D amp and it's powering 2x10's on the biggest box I could fit in the trunk w/ some cargo space left...
Now, the bose speakers sound sad next to the bass I got going on, plus I think the 6x9s are shot. The 6.5s definitely need to be upgraded, the 6x9s are like fake subwoofers so could I take them out to let more bass in? Or the bose amp needs to be connected to them ? Will the bose amp power the new 6.5s good enough or I need another amp ? Thanks !
Now, the bose speakers sound sad next to the bass I got going on, plus I think the 6x9s are shot. The 6.5s definitely need to be upgraded, the 6x9s are like fake subwoofers so could I take them out to let more bass in? Or the bose amp needs to be connected to them ? Will the bose amp power the new 6.5s good enough or I need another amp ? Thanks !
#1: 4000 peak watts = what, 300 watts RMS? Stating peak watts only impresses ignorant high school kids, and has no place in a discussion here.
#2: Box size isn't dick size. Bigger boxes generally don't make for good sound. Box volume for sealed, and volume/port specs matter. Again, a big box might impress ignorant high school kids, but not anybody who can help you with audio problems.
#3: Bose sounds sad regardless of your bass, so subs overpowering bose isn't hard really, the Bose sucks. But this problem can be solved in a few ways - turning down the gain on your subs (although that kinda defeats the purpose of having big subs, right?), or getting more powerful mids/highs. Getting more powerful mids in any way revolves around getting a solid amp and speakers.
#4: Yes, get rid of the 6x9's. It's fairly involved in getting the rear deck accessible enough to remove them, but especially if they're shot, they need to go.
#5: In order to fix the imbalanced bass problem, you're replacing the amp anyway, so whether or not it needs to be connected to the 6x9s is unimportant.
#2: Box size isn't dick size. Bigger boxes generally don't make for good sound. Box volume for sealed, and volume/port specs matter. Again, a big box might impress ignorant high school kids, but not anybody who can help you with audio problems.
#3: Bose sounds sad regardless of your bass, so subs overpowering bose isn't hard really, the Bose sucks. But this problem can be solved in a few ways - turning down the gain on your subs (although that kinda defeats the purpose of having big subs, right?), or getting more powerful mids/highs. Getting more powerful mids in any way revolves around getting a solid amp and speakers.
#4: Yes, get rid of the 6x9's. It's fairly involved in getting the rear deck accessible enough to remove them, but especially if they're shot, they need to go.
#5: In order to fix the imbalanced bass problem, you're replacing the amp anyway, so whether or not it needs to be connected to the 6x9s is unimportant.
#1: 4000 peak watts = what, 300 watts RMS? Stating peak watts only impresses ignorant high school kids, and has no place in a discussion here.
#2: Box size isn't dick size. Bigger boxes generally don't make for good sound. Box volume for sealed, and volume/port specs matter. Again, a big box might impress ignorant high school kids, but not anybody who can help you with audio problems.
#3: Bose sounds sad regardless of your bass, so subs overpowering bose isn't hard really, the Bose sucks. But this problem can be solved in a few ways - turning down the gain on your subs (although that kinda defeats the purpose of having big subs, right?), or getting more powerful mids/highs. Getting more powerful mids in any way revolves around getting a solid amp and speakers.
#4: Yes, get rid of the 6x9's. It's fairly involved in getting the rear deck accessible enough to remove them, but especially if they're shot, they need to go.
#5: In order to fix the imbalanced bass problem, you're replacing the amp anyway, so whether or not it needs to be connected to the 6x9s is unimportant.
#2: Box size isn't dick size. Bigger boxes generally don't make for good sound. Box volume for sealed, and volume/port specs matter. Again, a big box might impress ignorant high school kids, but not anybody who can help you with audio problems.
#3: Bose sounds sad regardless of your bass, so subs overpowering bose isn't hard really, the Bose sucks. But this problem can be solved in a few ways - turning down the gain on your subs (although that kinda defeats the purpose of having big subs, right?), or getting more powerful mids/highs. Getting more powerful mids in any way revolves around getting a solid amp and speakers.
#4: Yes, get rid of the 6x9's. It's fairly involved in getting the rear deck accessible enough to remove them, but especially if they're shot, they need to go.
#5: In order to fix the imbalanced bass problem, you're replacing the amp anyway, so whether or not it needs to be connected to the 6x9s is unimportant.
So I was thinking a component 6.5 kit for the doors, 6.5 mids on the rear panels and a amp... dynamat doors and rear panels, is that the way to go ?
Last edited by SFLGTURBO; Sep 28, 2010 at 04:29 PM. Reason: spelling
I just replaced my bose system. Make sure you get the spacers for the front and rear 6.5s. I was going to do a full 6 speaker swap out but I didn't know I needed spacers for the rear so I just have 6.5 components in front and 6x9 in back. I didn't dynamat the doors but I will be dynamating the trunk this weekend. It rattles a lot. And replace the crappy bose amp.
I just replaced my bose system. Make sure you get the spacers for the front and rear 6.5s. I was going to do a full 6 speaker swap out but I didn't know I needed spacers for the rear so I just have 6.5 components in front and 6x9 in back. I didn't dynamat the doors but I will be dynamating the trunk this weekend. It rattles a lot. And replace the crappy bose amp.
Cool thanks, but I heard of people that had spent good $$$ on RCA cables and still got the annoying engine interference... Someone said a good quality amp also is needed along w/ the good RCAs... But I don't know any better it could be just bad grounding or something
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Ok thanks I'll do that. Just ordered the amp cuz I found a good one in a good price... Flat mat seems to be a lot cheaper than dynamat... is there a big difference in sound between the two ?
second skin damplifer is probably the best band for the buck
secondskinaudio.com
I use mid grade RCAs. I think I paid $20 a pair and ran two pair RIGHT next to two 4ga power wires, no engine noise.
If you get engine noise; check your grounds.
dont worry about your rear speakers or powering them, its really a waste when you have a higher end component set up
secondskinaudio.com
I use mid grade RCAs. I think I paid $20 a pair and ran two pair RIGHT next to two 4ga power wires, no engine noise.
If you get engine noise; check your grounds.
dont worry about your rear speakers or powering them, its really a waste when you have a higher end component set up
I think "my RCAs are too close to my power wire" is just an excuse people use use to blame for other problems in their install, just like "The bass cuts out at the peak of beats because I don't have a big enough capacitor". Mine are run separately because it was easier to run the audio signal the center console and the passenger side for the power.
Thanks guys for the great info / advise ! I'm gonna have it installed next week when the stuff arrives. I'm gonna leave the 6x9 out and put some sound deadening all over the back (top leaving 6x9 holes ) sides and floor ( plus doors ) And post here w/ the results and functionality of everything. I got monster extra low noise 4 way rca from amazon.com for $30 shipped.
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