I've got most of the interior of my car torn apart ('05 coupe) - rear seats and side panels out, all the trunk panels removed and no more spare tire, center dash panels removed, and RCAs, remote, and 0/1ga power wire run to the trunk.

So far so good...

BUT - How the hell am I supposed to run new speaker wire to the front doors? All I can see entering the door is that one crooked little bit of rubber coated flexible wire loom that starts way up under the dash somewhere. Please tell me there's an easier way to get new 14ga speaker wire run into the door without dismantling the whole dash and praying there's enough room in that spool to add another wire.

And before anyone asks, I would have just tapped the factory wiring but I'm worried about burning it up and having to rewire it later on anyway. Trying to do it right the first time, but sometimes doing the right thing sucks.

If anyone's got any tips, tricks, or input I welcome it. Thanks

 

Voltage to the speakers is AC, not DC, so you're not going to burn it out by using the factory wiring. I've got 100w RMS going through the factory wiring daily, no problem.

 

Thanks for the reply Wrath, that might be my only possibility at this point. Will try and figure out where those wires come from and how to bypass the amp, etc. today.

 

I didn't bother with running the wire through the grommet as I read that someone took 10 hours to do it, so I just used the running wire and spliced the wires before it reached the amp. There are diagrams floating around and should be pretty straightforward.

 

well, either way, its the amperage that burns it up, not voltage...

@Leksicon, im sure they used the same wiring for bose/non-bose systems so the stock wiring cant be THAT bad. i disconnected my bose amp and spliced into the harness. hada hell of a time finding which lines were which tho lol but now if i need to sell the car i can just solder the lines back together and plug in the bose amp and take my equipment out. besides the stock HU, i threw that trash out :P

@Wrathernaut, you wouldnt by any chance know how many wrms the bose component speakers are rated at would you?

 

The entire Bose system was rated at 222w peak, so maybe 40w peak and like 20w RMS, but they'll probably take more.

 

I decided to reuse the factory wiring for now. At some point if I get my back problems figured out and can work on the car for more than an hour at a time I'll work on some kick panels and run fresh wire then, but this should work for now. The factory service manuals have the wiring diagrams laid out nicely so it wasn't a big deal finding which wires to tap off the amp.

 

oh wow... really? so thats why ppl keep saying this system is a joke lol I havent tried to push mine that hard just because i didnt know what they could handle. I have had components sound fine and all of a sudden just blow because i had no idea i was over-driving them :/ ok, well thnx!

 

I followed this tutorial to run 16 gauge to my doors. I have the same car, an 05 coupe. It was really helpful, but still took me several hours for just one side.

https://g35driver.com/forums/audio-v...ire-doors.html

 

Wow several hours to run the wire to the doors?

I think it took me an hour to do both doors

We took the doors off and made a new hole in the nomex in about 20 min per side

running the wire in the actual cabin is quite easy

 

what gague is the stock wiring? 20/22awg?

 

That's a great link, thank you! Was looking for something like that and never could track it down.

That sounds about right, I would say 20 by eyeballing it but my eyes aren't what they used to be.

 

Everybody still using stock wiring to power aftermarket speakers? I would hope that wiring is at least 18ga if you are running 75-100W/channel...

 

The stock wiring worked fine. You can tap it in the trunk easily enough. I did that for a bit and it wasn't a problem. It might be 18ga, it's thin for sure but it's all good.