Climate Control/Radio Repair DIY
It looks like the re-soldering of the resistors has fixed my failed CD player issue, however it has uncovered another: I am now having problems with my battery draining down in roughly 24 hours. I was barely able to start my car today. I read thru some other threads, including one where our friend @Quanttrom has some posts and seems to have some familiarity with this issue, and it looks like the Bose radio is the culprit for that issue as well.
I plugged my battery in to a tender, and pulled the 15 amp radio fuse under the hood (After setting my A/C to a good temp, since it locks out those controls!), and we'll see how she does. I'm going to get the battery fully charged, and we're going out to dinner tonight, then we're headed out on vacation for 8 days, so I'll see if I come back to a totally dead battery or not, with the fuse removed.
For the sake of continuity in this thread, I will continue this particular discussion in the more appropriate thread focused on the parasitic battery draining issue, and leave this thread for the repair of the radio. The other thread on the battery topic is here:
https://g35driver.com/forums/audio-v...-now-what.html
I plugged my battery in to a tender, and pulled the 15 amp radio fuse under the hood (After setting my A/C to a good temp, since it locks out those controls!), and we'll see how she does. I'm going to get the battery fully charged, and we're going out to dinner tonight, then we're headed out on vacation for 8 days, so I'll see if I come back to a totally dead battery or not, with the fuse removed.
For the sake of continuity in this thread, I will continue this particular discussion in the more appropriate thread focused on the parasitic battery draining issue, and leave this thread for the repair of the radio. The other thread on the battery topic is here:
https://g35driver.com/forums/audio-v...-now-what.html
Dead climate controls and stereo here too on my 03 Sedan. Been this way for 3 months.
I replaced my finisher board a few days ago, power came back on for 5-10 min, then all was dead again.
Wish I had seen this post before I spent $100 on the board.
Pulled the deck again today and did the re solder job, had the deck put back together and re installed in 2 hrs.
All works fine now with my stereo and climate controls.
Some pretty smart folks here for sure, thanks again.
TBark
I replaced my finisher board a few days ago, power came back on for 5-10 min, then all was dead again.
Wish I had seen this post before I spent $100 on the board.
Pulled the deck again today and did the re solder job, had the deck put back together and re installed in 2 hrs.
All works fine now with my stereo and climate controls.
Some pretty smart folks here for sure, thanks again.
TBark
for reference purposes:
the 75ohm resistors should be something like this. Order a bunch.
http://www.digikey.com/product-detai....0FCT-ND/89252
Order 10 or so of those as well. You will need only 2 but with the price break and all it's worth it to have extras.
http://www.digikey.com/product-detai...2ECT-ND/203294
the 75ohm resistors should be something like this. Order a bunch.
http://www.digikey.com/product-detai....0FCT-ND/89252
Order 10 or so of those as well. You will need only 2 but with the price break and all it's worth it to have extras.
http://www.digikey.com/product-detai...2ECT-ND/203294
Thus just happened to my 03 G coupe last night. Very informative. Haven't done any recent soldering but not intimidated by this and would be down to try it. Beats the alternative if buying a JDM DD and a new head unit.
I just did this fix. Have yet to reinstall. Thank you to all that contributed.
Im considering getting rid of the tape player and adding my own AUX input. The schematic is on page 30 of the clarion schematic. Basically I would sever traces leading to pins 7, 9 of the HA12216F chip, and I would solder the 3.5 leads to TP-R, TP-L, and A-GND.
Thoughts?
Im considering getting rid of the tape player and adding my own AUX input. The schematic is on page 30 of the clarion schematic. Basically I would sever traces leading to pins 7, 9 of the HA12216F chip, and I would solder the 3.5 leads to TP-R, TP-L, and A-GND.
Thoughts?
I just did this fix. Have yet to reinstall. Thank you to all that contributed.
Im considering getting rid of the tape player and adding my own AUX input. The schematic is on page 30 of the clarion schematic. Basically I would sever traces leading to pins 7, 9 of the HA12216F chip, and I would solder the 3.5 leads to TP-R, TP-L, and A-GND.
Thoughts?
Im considering getting rid of the tape player and adding my own AUX input. The schematic is on page 30 of the clarion schematic. Basically I would sever traces leading to pins 7, 9 of the HA12216F chip, and I would solder the 3.5 leads to TP-R, TP-L, and A-GND.
Thoughts?
I would suggest connecting to the wires coming from the read head, leaving the rest of the tape player unchanged. It's much easier than trying to connect directly on the board. I don't know if there's some sort of function in the chip that is detecting the presence of other parts of the tape deck which makes it available as a selectable source or not the way that it checks for the presence of the satellite adapter. 

ok...I just put it in and tested...boooo...
Now it makes a loud beep when I insert the keys. Maybe this is progress? No idea. Screen still doesnt come up and headunit controls are still useless
Now it makes a loud beep when I insert the keys. Maybe this is progress? No idea. Screen still doesnt come up and headunit controls are still useless
There should be 3 wires coming off of it - ground, left and right.
Nice, will look into that further once I get my bose unit to work. Any idea on my latest symptoms? Is it ok to power the car up with the radio removed btw?
For anyone wondering, my problem was that the console finisher ribbon cable got disconnected while I was installing the radio. I reconnected it (Didnt even have to remove the console) and it works perfectly!








