I bought a set for about $9 off of Ebay to replace my Bose tweeters cause they were crackling to some notes. Basically, you get what you pay for in my opinion.. tweeters are super quiet. I only know they're working/on because of the loud hissing noise I get when I don't play music and turn the volume up high. I can hear the tweeter if the volume is at 17+ I have it on my driver side, and on the passenger side I have the stock Bose tweeter which doesn't crackle.

Overall, only buy if you're on a really low budget and desperate for some tweeters. I'm going back on my search for affordable louder tweeters. Although, this might be a problem that is only happening to me because I've yet to hear anything bad about these tweeters.

My installation: detach door panel, detach plastic holding in tweeter, cut the two pos and neg wires, used a pair of splicers to connect the new tweeter, and reverse detachments.

 

they are probably super quiet because the impedance isn't matched. they're looking for 4ohm, you're feeding them, something else.

is there a cap attached to the tweets to filter out low freq's? if so, try grabbing signal (to test) from the woofer lead. worth a shot; but if the signals are internally crossed over (as in, inside the BOSE amp) it won't help.

 

they are 4ohm tweeters. i'm assuming "cap" is capacitor? i apologize, i'm a newbie, but how do i grab signal/test the woofer lead?

 

yes, most speakers in the aftermarket 12v industry are 4ohm, but that doesn't change what impedance they're being fed from the BOSE amp, it just means nominally they should see 4ohm to sound best. They're probably not..

cap = capacitor, correct. if you see one on the back of the tweeter, you can hook it up to a full range signal and it will be protected from lower frequency ranges (so it won't blow)

All I mean is, try to connect the tweeter to another signal source (in the door) while playing music - it may all be in vain though, as I have a feeling the only signal the separate bose mid woofers (in the lower half of the doors) is a low freq anyways and won't help you.

It all depends on where the crossovers are for the stock components - at each speaker (tweet vs mid) or, in the amp itself and each speaker is seeing a different freq range.

If you want better sound would you consider sinking some real money into it and replacing the radio and front components (and possibly and a/m amp)?