6.5 Component speaker input
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 105
Likes: 0
From: Barrie, ON, Canada
Come on Wrath.
Butyl based sound deadening material such as Dynamat (and many others tested by the guys at sound deadening showdown - SS Damplifier being my personal favourite since I dealt with Ant, the owner, on CAF), if you want me to use the long version, doesn't present much benefit to speaker operation when applied only partially. There, we're good.
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 212
Likes: 10
From: long beach, ca
What's the sub? You don't buy an amp before you buy a sub... you buy a sub that suits your needs as far as enclosure type/physical space, listening tastes and budget go.
I'll assume your 10" sub is 4 ohm DVC and rated at 500w rms, not going into enclosure specs since it doesn't matter to the amp; you'd need ballpark $200-300 + installation hardware is my guess.
I'll assume your 10" sub is 4 ohm DVC and rated at 500w rms, not going into enclosure specs since it doesn't matter to the amp; you'd need ballpark $200-300 + installation hardware is my guess.
I like tight bass not boomy. Here are my top 3:
ID10 V3 D4 - Image Dynamics 10" Dual 4 Ohm V3 Subwoofer
SWR-1023D - Alpine 10" 2-ohm DVC Type-R Subwoofer
JBL GTO1014D
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 105
Likes: 0
From: Barrie, ON, Canada
Quick question, and yes it's a serious one: are you trying to fool people, or are you out of your damn minds?!???
(disclaimer: I might be overreacting just because of the atrociously low dollar:SQ ratio here)
The first thing to note is that PPI is essentially not PPI anymore. That was 9 years ago, when DEI bought out A/D/S, Orion and PPI (Precision Power). They took a year shifting production to their China plants, making 2005 the last year where great, just below audiopĥile quality components were put in Power Class (PPI) and HCCA (Orion) series.
The second thing to look at here is design, and at this point I'm still banging my head against the wall at the decision to use a class D amp on a nice set of comps. Holy hell guys, ID probably hates you (I don't care much about Harman i.e. JBL). Yes it's stereo enabled, but efficiency clearly trumps quality in class D designs... damping always ends up being in the low-low spectrum (50 to 150).
The third issue I see here is what's available...... damn. Don't know why you'd buy that thing in the first place... it's like CAF seniors asking me why the hell I used the efficient T class amp (4X35w rms) internal to my old Pana CQ-C9701 to power a component set in the Maxima back in '06, it's not exactly the right tool for the job. Mid bass must sound sloppy with all that lack of control over woofer linearity. And in terms of what's available...
How much did/do you pay for the 600.2? $140? $150? $130 maybe? All those JBLs need is 80w rms per, so that's an easy price to work. Headroom is always nice, make it 100-120w per.
Despite PPI's best effort to say quality hasn't taken the hit with the DEI buyout, and in light of the suspiciously high damping factors associated with amps worth < $200 (look at the 600.2, they didn't even bother listing damping #'s), here's a world of difference for just a little more dough:
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...er_PC3602.aspx
Don't care about buying PPI specifically? I honestly can't believe they are still sold as new, but my 2005 TRA is still avail at OCS: http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...m_TRA5602.aspx
...both of these amps mop the floor with the 600.2 for roughly the same price, trust me. Several more options too.
Tight bass (in general) = sealed setup. The ID is a pretty well rounded small sealed driver, the Type R requires a bit more power sealed but will amaze the average joe in a low to mid tuned ported enclosure. Get the GTO off that list, it doesn't belong there in terms of quality... price is most likely what got you considering it.
I would personally throw an ID10 in a sealed 0.75 cu ft box which won't take much space at all, and spend a healthy $210-220 on a nice 400 to 500w mono amp like this one (although this particular one is a steal):
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...m_REF1500.aspx
Last edited by drozzy; Mar 16, 2013 at 11:49 AM.
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 105
Likes: 0
From: Barrie, ON, Canada
Forgot to mention... this IS the passive comp, 80-120w rms per, quality stereo amp referenced every day over at CAF (caraudioforum.com): http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...s-GT-2125.html
$110 for a middle of the road A/B board, not too shabby.
$110 for a middle of the road A/B board, not too shabby.
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 829
Likes: 24
From: New York
Guess I read this yesterday as to you two having loads of cash for old school PPIs and knowing where to get them from... nevermind, I just realized what a 600.2 actually is.
Quick question, and yes it's a serious one: are you trying to fool people, or are you out of your damn minds?!???
(disclaimer: I might be overreacting just because of the atrociously low dollar:SQ ratio here)
The first thing to note is that PPI is essentially not PPI anymore. That was 9 years ago, when DEI bought out A/D/S, Orion and PPI (Precision Power). They took a year shifting production to their China plants, making 2005 the last year where great, just below audiopĥile quality components were put in Power Class (PPI) and HCCA (Orion) series.
The second thing to look at here is design, and at this point I'm still banging my head against the wall at the decision to use a class D amp on a nice set of comps. Holy hell guys, ID probably hates you (I don't care much about Harman i.e. JBL). Yes it's stereo enabled, but efficiency clearly trumps quality in class D designs... damping always ends up being in the low-low spectrum (50 to 150).
The third issue I see here is what's available...... damn. Don't know why you'd buy that thing in the first place... it's like CAF seniors asking me why the hell I used the efficient T class amp (4X35w rms) internal to my old Pana CQ-C9701 to power a component set in the Maxima back in '06, it's not exactly the right tool for the job. Mid bass must sound sloppy with all that lack of control over woofer linearity. And in terms of what's available...
How much did/do you pay for the 600.2? $140? $150? $130 maybe? All those JBLs need is 80w rms per, so that's an easy price to work. Headroom is always nice, make it 100-120w per.
Despite PPI's best effort to say quality hasn't taken the hit with the DEI buyout, and in light of the suspiciously high damping factors associated with amps worth < $200 (look at the 600.2, they didn't even bother listing damping #'s), here's a world of difference for just a little more dough:
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...er_PC3602.aspx
Don't care about buying PPI specifically? I honestly can't believe they are still sold as new, but my 2005 TRA is still avail at OCS: http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...m_TRA5602.aspx
...both of these amps mop the floor with the 600.2 for roughly the same price, trust me. Several more options too.
Sorry to point it out buddy, but listing voice coil configs doesn't matter at all at this stage. We're trying to match your needs with a bass driver, we're not quite at the part where amp output vs VC config gets considered.
Tight bass (in general) = sealed setup. The ID is a pretty well rounded small sealed driver, the Type R requires a bit more power sealed but will amaze the average joe in a low to mid tuned ported enclosure. Get the GTO off that list, it doesn't belong there in terms of quality... price is most likely what got you considering it.
I would personally throw an ID10 in a sealed 0.75 cu ft box which won't take much space at all, and spend a healthy $210-220 on a nice 400 to 500w mono amp like this one (although this particular one is a steal):
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...m_REF1500.aspx
Quick question, and yes it's a serious one: are you trying to fool people, or are you out of your damn minds?!???
(disclaimer: I might be overreacting just because of the atrociously low dollar:SQ ratio here)
The first thing to note is that PPI is essentially not PPI anymore. That was 9 years ago, when DEI bought out A/D/S, Orion and PPI (Precision Power). They took a year shifting production to their China plants, making 2005 the last year where great, just below audiopĥile quality components were put in Power Class (PPI) and HCCA (Orion) series.
The second thing to look at here is design, and at this point I'm still banging my head against the wall at the decision to use a class D amp on a nice set of comps. Holy hell guys, ID probably hates you (I don't care much about Harman i.e. JBL). Yes it's stereo enabled, but efficiency clearly trumps quality in class D designs... damping always ends up being in the low-low spectrum (50 to 150).
The third issue I see here is what's available...... damn. Don't know why you'd buy that thing in the first place... it's like CAF seniors asking me why the hell I used the efficient T class amp (4X35w rms) internal to my old Pana CQ-C9701 to power a component set in the Maxima back in '06, it's not exactly the right tool for the job. Mid bass must sound sloppy with all that lack of control over woofer linearity. And in terms of what's available...
How much did/do you pay for the 600.2? $140? $150? $130 maybe? All those JBLs need is 80w rms per, so that's an easy price to work. Headroom is always nice, make it 100-120w per.
Despite PPI's best effort to say quality hasn't taken the hit with the DEI buyout, and in light of the suspiciously high damping factors associated with amps worth < $200 (look at the 600.2, they didn't even bother listing damping #'s), here's a world of difference for just a little more dough:
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...er_PC3602.aspx
Don't care about buying PPI specifically? I honestly can't believe they are still sold as new, but my 2005 TRA is still avail at OCS: http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...m_TRA5602.aspx
...both of these amps mop the floor with the 600.2 for roughly the same price, trust me. Several more options too.
Sorry to point it out buddy, but listing voice coil configs doesn't matter at all at this stage. We're trying to match your needs with a bass driver, we're not quite at the part where amp output vs VC config gets considered.
Tight bass (in general) = sealed setup. The ID is a pretty well rounded small sealed driver, the Type R requires a bit more power sealed but will amaze the average joe in a low to mid tuned ported enclosure. Get the GTO off that list, it doesn't belong there in terms of quality... price is most likely what got you considering it.
I would personally throw an ID10 in a sealed 0.75 cu ft box which won't take much space at all, and spend a healthy $210-220 on a nice 400 to 500w mono amp like this one (although this particular one is a steal):
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...m_REF1500.aspx
http://www.pasmag.com/car-audio/test...004-amplifier-
If u don't like the ppi, take the Polk D4000.4, Hertz HDP4, or the Ampire MX. Same boards.
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 105
Likes: 0
From: Barrie, ON, Canada
sigh
http://www.pasmag.com/car-audio/test...004-amplifier-
If u don't like the ppi, take the Polk D4000.4, Hertz HDP4, or the Ampire MX. Same boards.
http://www.pasmag.com/car-audio/test...004-amplifier-
If u don't like the ppi, take the Polk D4000.4, Hertz HDP4, or the Ampire MX. Same boards.
I'll take the reviews on DIYMA over PAS embellishment, personally. And, fair point, they seem to hold up well. On one hand the new PCs are probably still built stronger than this class D P series, but on the other it doesn't seem like such a mismatch vs other options I'll give you that. The $20-30 difference between the two is still plenty justifiable IMHO.
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 829
Likes: 24
From: New York
There's a HUGE thread on diyma regarding the phantom amps
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/...black-ice.html
btw, the gto is far a superior SQ sub than the id is
he can also go with the creative sdx
http://www.creativesound.ca/details.php?model=SDX10
ssa dcon(ported only)
http://soundsolutionsaudio.com/index...tion/dcon.html
sundown sa
http://www.sundownaudio.com/index.ph...?category_id=2
dayton ho
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=295-462
ultimax
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=295-510
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/...black-ice.html
btw, the gto is far a superior SQ sub than the id is
he can also go with the creative sdx
http://www.creativesound.ca/details.php?model=SDX10
ssa dcon(ported only)
http://soundsolutionsaudio.com/index...tion/dcon.html
sundown sa
http://www.sundownaudio.com/index.ph...?category_id=2
dayton ho
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=295-462
ultimax
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=295-510
Last edited by eggyhustles; Mar 16, 2013 at 05:38 PM.
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 105
Likes: 0
From: Barrie, ON, Canada
There's a HUGE thread on diyma regarding the phantom amps
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/...black-ice.html
btw, the gto is far a superior SQ sub than the id is
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/...black-ice.html
btw, the gto is far a superior SQ sub than the id is
GTO vs ID - based on what? Total Q alone?
The ID's suspension is a bit softer, more cone area and more xmax, I mean... small sealed, I'd take the ID over the GTO all day every day.
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 212
Likes: 10
From: long beach, ca
Forgot to mention... this IS the passive comp, 80-120w rms per, quality stereo amp referenced every day over at CAF (caraudioforum.com): http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...s-GT-2125.html
$110 for a middle of the road A/B board, not too shabby.
$110 for a middle of the road A/B board, not too shabby.
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 829
Likes: 24
From: New York
IB or ported should be the only 2 routes to go in the G coupe. IMO.
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 105
Likes: 0
From: Barrie, ON, Canada
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 105
Likes: 0
From: Barrie, ON, Canada
Not always true.
Substantially less available power than the driver's thermal power handling figure = large sealed to maximize efficiency and decrease suspension stiffness.
Just use WinISD. In a potential lower-than-desired available power situation, it's indeed a no go for mid to small sealed enclosures. OTOH you usually need a good deal less than rated power for infinite baffle setups, their graph response are an extension of what a giant sealed box would produce. Results in super high driver efficiency, if it can handle it. Turns out all ID subs can.
...I thought he'd have enough power for his sub though?! I lost track of how much he was allocating to the whole thing.
Substantially less available power than the driver's thermal power handling figure = large sealed to maximize efficiency and decrease suspension stiffness.
Just use WinISD. In a potential lower-than-desired available power situation, it's indeed a no go for mid to small sealed enclosures. OTOH you usually need a good deal less than rated power for infinite baffle setups, their graph response are an extension of what a giant sealed box would produce. Results in super high driver efficiency, if it can handle it. Turns out all ID subs can.
...I thought he'd have enough power for his sub though?! I lost track of how much he was allocating to the whole thing.
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 212
Likes: 10
From: long beach, ca
Not always true.
Substantially less available power than the driver's thermal power handling figure = large sealed to maximize efficiency and decrease suspension stiffness.
Just use WinISD. In a potential lower-than-desired available power situation, it's indeed a no go for mid to small sealed enclosures. OTOH you usually need a good deal less than rated power for infinite baffle setups, their graph response are an extension of what a giant sealed box would produce. Results in super high driver efficiency, if it can handle it. Turns out all ID subs can.
jo
...I thought he'd have enough power for his sub though?! I lost track of how much he was allocating to the whole thing.
Substantially less available power than the driver's thermal power handling figure = large sealed to maximize efficiency and decrease suspension stiffness.
Just use WinISD. In a potential lower-than-desired available power situation, it's indeed a no go for mid to small sealed enclosures. OTOH you usually need a good deal less than rated power for infinite baffle setups, their graph response are an extension of what a giant sealed box would produce. Results in super high driver efficiency, if it can handle it. Turns out all ID subs can.
jo
...I thought he'd have enough power for his sub though?! I lost track of how much he was allocating to the whole thing.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
DEMoLITIoN
Audio/Video/Electronics
8
Apr 20, 2016 06:57 PM
