Originally Posted by Knew_EraG

Most likely going to start that this weekend.


Battery needed replacement regardless, took it to Autozone for a battery test and it had 1 dead cell and would not hold a charge. Amps ground point was sanded down to bare metal for 5-10 minutes. Even relocated it as well to the rear seat bracket which was sanded down as well.



Exactly, we installed two kickers, 400 watts rms each, and a kenwood amp to my brothers 06" accord and his vehicle has no dimming at all. Definitely not trying to replace the alternator all for some extra bass. Im using 4 gauge wiring power/ground, 12 gauge speaker wire.



Have not done that but i am considering doing that after all the hassle. Does anyone have a write up on the Big 3? I know which wires they are but i find write ups useful.

And to top it all off, the SES light came on today!!! DTC P1065. Took everything apart (sound system), reset the ecm and the SES light has since gone away and hasn't came back on after 20 miles of driving. This has been a dam hassle, all for some freaking bass.

Thanks for all the input guys, definitely learned a few things for future installs. For now i think im gonna stick to the "ok" stock bose, really have no choice.

Originally Posted by http://www.crutchfield.com/S-3RviihhM9pI/learn/learningcenter/car/cable_gauge_chart.html

To determine the approximate current draw (in amperes) of your amplifier (or amplifiers), you must calculate first the total power of each amp (multiply the number of channels by the number of RMS watts per channel). If you have multiple amps, add up the total power figures to arrive at a grand total. Next, double your grand total power figure. Then, divide by 13.8.

Originally Posted by Wrathernaut

You're running 4 gauge from battery to trunk for two amps? That's too much distance for that much power RMS.



So for a pair of 400w RMS amps, at about 13-16' of wire, you're on the very limit of what 4 gauge can do. In my sedan, I used 17' of wire to get to the distribution block in the trunk, followed by about 3' of wire from the block to each of the amps, so 4 gauge would be far insufficient. For the relatively small cost increase and the same install time, I recommend running 0 gauge for any amp install in the trunk so you can upgrade or add a second amp in the future without the hassle of running new power wire.

On a side note, going by the wiring chart here, how much power do you think the factory bose amp *really* put out with its 14 gauge (or was it even thinner than that) wire in the trunk?

Originally Posted by Knew_EraG

The two subs I was referring to was for my brothers Accord. I simply had a Diamond Audio D6, 600 watts rms with a underpowered amp. And yes it's only 4 gauge power wire from the battery to the amp in the trunk, and its only one single amp. I'm not sure what you mean by wired to two amps? I will definitely take that into consideration for next time but for now I'm taking it out. Sucks but oh well.