I installed my system on my 04' coupe, Diamond audio D6 600 RMS, and a cheap Directed 500 amp that is probably can't handle the D6 sub. When i turn up the bass/volume on the amp it seems as if my headlights dim when the bass drops? Has anyone else encountered this problem also? I hooked it up to the stock head unit following the DIY that is stickied. I have a coupe by the way. Please help, any input would he beneficial. Thanks.

 

This happened to me in my 99 Jetta but I was pushing 2 12" CVX with a 2000watt kicker amp.

A capacitator solved my problem I'm sure it'll do the same for you.

 

I've read good and bad reviews about caps, mostly bad. Heard they don't actually fix the problem, just like a band-aid.

The part I'm scratching my head is that its not a super banging loud system and its only one 12" sub. I tried putting In a amp with more power and it still did it. I'm wondering if I change out the sub for something smaller that wont suck up too much power.

Are there any other things tha could be causing this? I redid my ground to make sure it wasn't that but that didn't help. Don't feel like taking it out but I might just have too.

Any help would be great. Thanks.

 

Do the "Big 3" upgrade and get a better battery before adding a capacitor. Capacitors have some anecdotal evidence to support them, but are worthless if you actually do the math as to their available power reserve to a properly operating charging system.

As for lights not dimming, well, put any device between the battery and the amplifier that reduces power conversion efficiency and it won't be able to pull as much power as easily, leaving more power for your lights, and you're not likely to hear the difference.

 

What exactly do you mean when you say "put any device between the battery and the amplifier that reduces power conversion efficiency and it won't be able to pull as much power." ? Thanks for the information, very helpful. To be honest I rather not do the big three or replace the battery just for some extra bass, would rather remove it. But if there's a way around it I'm up for it.

 

Upgrading your battery has loads more benefits than simply fixing your light problem

 

Looks like i have to upgrade my car battery. Took it in to Autozone to get tested and it has 1 bad cell and won't hold a charge. My coupe is only my summer car, its been sitting in the garage since October of last year, i would leave the battery disconnected and it was garage kept. Not sure if this caused it to prematurely go bad. Oh well, looks like i'll be getting a Optima red top.

 

I have been running 750 watts to my sub and 450 watts to my front speakers for 5 years and never had any issues with dimming lights. I do have a yellow top. Anytime audio is upgraded, the first step is to get a yellow or red top. Enjoy your system.

 

Short version: Placing something that is draining power (a capacitor charging after discharging itself) restricts the power available to the amp between it and the alternator and battery is going to keep it from sucking so much power that the lights dim. The amp is capable of drawing more power faster than the capacitor can, so it makes the lights dim where the capacitor doesn't.

If you need a visual, think of the battery as beer keg, the alternator as a hose filling the keg, and your amplifier as a frat boy. Frat boy can chug faster than the hose can fill the keg, but if you make him use a straw, the hose can keep the beer full and available for others. No capacitor has 100% efficiency (laws of thermodynamics and all) so it's not going to ever increase the amount of power your amp can draw from the charging system over time.

The capacity of a car battery is HUGE compared to a capacitor, so getting a better battery, or making it function more efficiently with the "Big 3" upgrade is the way to solve problems with your ability to keep lights and stereo running right.

 

Thanks for your input guys. After connecting my new battery it is still dimming the lights! either way I needed a new battery but I was hoping It would handle the issue.

I'm starting to think it may be a wiring issue? Any ideas on what to check? Would have a underpowered amp cause something like this to occur? ***** frustrating.

 

What battery did you replace with?

Amp shouldn't be an issue, but the previously mentioned "big 3" upgrade is always worth doing.

 

+1^ When troubleshooting it's generally recommended to start with the least expensive upgrade first, and work your way up the chain. Big 3 first, it's the cheapest.

Then move to the battery. Alternator last.

Also, what does your amp's ground point look like; specifically, is it down to the bare metal?

 

You put in a red top and its still dimming?? Its not the battery. I have more power than you and no dimming at all. Ther is no need to replace alternator either. It has to be a wiring issue? What gauge wire was used for the power/amps?

 

Did you do the Big 3? I genuinely think that will resolve his issue here.

Although it's important to run the right size wire and fuse, I don't think that's the issue here. If he's running a smaller gauge wire to his amp and it's fused properly, he won't draw more current than the wire/fuse can handle.

I'm definitely no expert to car audio or electricity, so please correct me if I'm wrong on that.

 

Most likely going to start that this weekend.
Battery needed replacement regardless, took it to Autozone for a battery test and it had 1 dead cell and would not hold a charge. Amps ground point was sanded down to bare metal for 5-10 minutes. Even relocated it as well to the rear seat bracket which was sanded down as well.

Exactly, we installed two kickers, 400 watts rms each, and a kenwood amp to my brothers 06" accord and his vehicle has no dimming at all. Definitely not trying to replace the alternator all for some extra bass. Im using 4 gauge wiring power/ground, 12 gauge speaker wire.

Have not done that but i am considering doing that after all the hassle. Does anyone have a write up on the Big 3? I know which wires they are but i find write ups useful.

And to top it all off, the SES light came on today!!! DTC P1065. Took everything apart (sound system), reset the ecm and the SES light has since gone away and hasn't came back on after 20 miles of driving. This has been a dam hassle, all for some freaking bass.

Thanks for all the input guys, definitely learned a few things for future installs. For now i think im gonna stick to the "ok" stock bose, really have no choice.