Issues with new install in 05' Coupe
#16
05-30-2013, 09:06 AM
Yes! I had it installed a few days ago and it makes a world of a difference!! Sounds just like it was with the original Bose HU, perhaps a bit crisper, maybe due to the new HU. I printed out the wiring scheme diagram from Wrathernaut's double-din shopping list for the ROEM-NIS2, handed it to the installers, and told them to do exactly what is says! LOL, they themselves agreed that everything sounded waaay better. And again, taking Wrathernaut's advice, At the same time I had them run the 3 pairs of RCA's and the power for bigger and better things in the future! But for now, Im enjoying everything the way it is.
Again, huge kudos to Wrathernaut for the guidance! Couldn't have done it without you bro!
Again, huge kudos to Wrathernaut for the guidance! Couldn't have done it without you bro!
#17
06-03-2013, 11:18 PM
Whats up Wrathernaut! Ok, so I've started crunching some numbers and wanted to see what you think of these setups.
1) Alpine MRV-F300 powering SPS-610c in the front and SPS-610 in the rear side panels; along with, MRP-M500 powering a JL 10" W1v2, removing the rear deck speakers.
or,
2) The MRV-F300 powering just the SPS-610c's in the front and bridge 2 channels to power the JL 10" and completely remove the side panel and rear deck speakers all together. Only downside with this is I only get 150 Watts RMS to the sub.
OR,
3) Am I just way off and need to go back to the drawing board? If so, got any good setups that I can go with?
Thanks again!
1) Alpine MRV-F300 powering SPS-610c in the front and SPS-610 in the rear side panels; along with, MRP-M500 powering a JL 10" W1v2, removing the rear deck speakers.
or,
2) The MRV-F300 powering just the SPS-610c's in the front and bridge 2 channels to power the JL 10" and completely remove the side panel and rear deck speakers all together. Only downside with this is I only get 150 Watts RMS to the sub.
OR,
3) Am I just way off and need to go back to the drawing board? If so, got any good setups that I can go with?
Thanks again!
#18
06-04-2013, 11:11 AM
Whats up Wrathernaut! Ok, so I've started crunching some numbers and wanted to see what you think of these setups.
1) Alpine MRV-F300 powering SPS-610c in the front and SPS-610 in the rear side panels; along with, MRP-M500 powering a JL 10" W1v2, removing the rear deck speakers.
or,
2) The MRV-F300 powering just the SPS-610c's in the front and bridge 2 channels to power the JL 10" and completely remove the side panel and rear deck speakers all together. Only downside with this is I only get 150 Watts RMS to the sub.
OR,
3) Am I just way off and need to go back to the drawing board? If so, got any good setups that I can go with?
Thanks again!
1) Alpine MRV-F300 powering SPS-610c in the front and SPS-610 in the rear side panels; along with, MRP-M500 powering a JL 10" W1v2, removing the rear deck speakers.
or,
2) The MRV-F300 powering just the SPS-610c's in the front and bridge 2 channels to power the JL 10" and completely remove the side panel and rear deck speakers all together. Only downside with this is I only get 150 Watts RMS to the sub.
OR,
3) Am I just way off and need to go back to the drawing board? If so, got any good setups that I can go with?
Thanks again!
#19
06-04-2013, 12:25 PM
Bridge the MRV-F300 to just the front speakers, combine what you'd spend on the SPS-610c and the SPS-610 to buy the Image Dynamics CTX-65CS instead (much better speaker) and use the M500 to power the sub.
#20
06-04-2013, 03:23 PM
There's the Sundown SA-10 if you're looking for something that's great and fairly cheap too.
#21
06-04-2013, 08:37 PM
Registered User
If you already have your three sets of RCAs ran to the trunk you might benefit a little bit from my Bose factory wiring write up. It tells you which wires go to which speakers.
https://g35driver.com/forums/audio-v...03-04-g35.html
If the shop is doing the install, it might help them out too
In any case I am running the MRX-M55 and MRX-F35. Just wanted to throw out that they are superior amps and phenominal all around. The MRX-F35 actually puts out 108 watts per channel at 2 ohms vs the 75 it promises!!! Holy cow! Not saying yours will be like that but it wouldn't surprise me if it didn't. Alpine's are way under rated!
Please share pics one you have the amps installed!
https://g35driver.com/forums/audio-v...03-04-g35.html
If the shop is doing the install, it might help them out too
In any case I am running the MRX-M55 and MRX-F35. Just wanted to throw out that they are superior amps and phenominal all around. The MRX-F35 actually puts out 108 watts per channel at 2 ohms vs the 75 it promises!!! Holy cow! Not saying yours will be like that but it wouldn't surprise me if it didn't. Alpine's are way under rated!
Please share pics one you have the amps installed!
#22
06-06-2013, 12:03 AM
#24
06-13-2013, 01:34 AM
Wrathernaut, where can I find a good sealed enclosure for the SA-10? I liked the offset one ZenClosure has but it only supports 9 1/8 diameter. The SA-10 is 101/2.
Also, I am going with the Image Dynamics CTX 65cs and needed to ask you what size spacers I will need for those as well.
My "mid" 30's BDay is coming up and I am going to treat myself!! The Sundown SA-10 and Image Dynamics CTX 65-cs are on their way! Need to find a good enclosure and find good prices for the amps. Yeah Buddy
Also, I am going with the Image Dynamics CTX 65cs and needed to ask you what size spacers I will need for those as well.
My "mid" 30's BDay is coming up and I am going to treat myself!! The Sundown SA-10 and Image Dynamics CTX 65-cs are on their way! Need to find a good enclosure and find good prices for the amps. Yeah Buddy
Last edited by HitmanAD; 06-13-2013 at 03:20 AM.
#26
06-13-2013, 11:02 AM
But, where can I get one that supports that specific diameter? Besides ZenClosures I don't know of another place that sells them.
#27
06-13-2013, 11:25 AM
Otherwise get a custom ported box made to the specs of that sub and you'll have something much better than the sealed box (but sacrifice trunkspace).
#28
06-14-2013, 07:00 PM
Regarding the SA-10, the link that you provided is for the DVC 2-Ohm version. Don't I want to be getting the DVC 4-Ohm SA-10?? Why or why not? A friend of mine mentioned that I would want to get the latter and hook them up in parellel, ending up with 2-ohm and 500 Watts. I did some more net searching and think that sounds about right.
#29
06-14-2013, 11:56 PM
Regarding the SA-10, the link that you provided is for the DVC 2-Ohm version. Don't I want to be getting the DVC 4-Ohm SA-10?? Why or why not? A friend of mine mentioned that I would want to get the latter and hook them up in parellel, ending up with 2-ohm and 500 Watts. I did some more net searching and think that sounds about right.
If your amp does 2-ohm stable in single-channel mode, you'll want the DVC-4ohm, wired in parallel for a 2-ohm load. If your amp is 4-ohm stable, you'll want the DVC-2ohm with it wired in series for a 4-ohm load. If your amp is 1-ohm stable, you'll want the DVC-2ohm wired in parallel for a 1-ohm load.
Read this for even more combinations:
http://crutchfield.custhelp.com/app/...aG9sbkRNc2w%3D
#30
06-18-2013, 06:54 PM
So, what happens to the ROEM-NIS2 when all this is ready to get installed? Do we remove it or just leave it there? Or is it rewired?
Would it be best to run all new speaker wire or go with the current wires?
Update by the way: Everything is on it's way, probably by the end of next week. Then just gotta install.
Would it be best to run all new speaker wire or go with the current wires?
Update by the way: Everything is on it's way, probably by the end of next week. Then just gotta install.
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