No yellow top bs, im looking for a heavy duty audio battery.

anyone happen to know the largest battery we can squeeze in the alloted area? Like actual dimensions? This shitty 110amp altenator nissan cheaped out on is not handling my system at all... so im going to start with a nice battery and see if it helps before I drop 4-600 on an altenator worth a damn

 

What's your system?

A lot of people blame the battery/alternator when they really just aren't wired/grounded properly.

If you're seriously in need of more battery, give up space in the trunk for another, larger battery along with an upgraded alternator.

 

Kenwood dd unit I forget the model
Stock bose handling stock doors for now, I have mtx components and an older rockford 550xs but it cant handle it yet.

saz1500d
Ascendant audio havoc 12"
Wired 1 ohm
1/0 wiring

big 3 starts tomorrow but I doubt its going to change much.

right now my battery is a 26r2, so group 26, its smaller than what the tray is to begin with.

btw on big 3 wiring from + to alt, do I wire it the alt itself or the external piece further back? Or both?

 

Anyhow, the big 3 is done minus the alt, ive never dome one with an external regulator.... do I run a section from the regulator to the alt, then alt to battery or just alt to battery and leave the regulator section oem size?

 

If you can get the thicker wire in its place, do it on both sides.

 

Will have to try later with smaller lugs, the scha lugs are way to big to fit 2 on the alt stud or on the regulator even.

I still want to fuse the new run, but big 3 is done. No change, lights dim a little less and idle is lower. Still have the shutter when shifting if the bass is hitting when turned up.

im thinking this battery isnt enough, is so small there is room on all sides, over and inch each end on width of spsce for the bsttery tray.

 

Car audio battery choices: Kinetik Power cell; Stinger: XS Power; to name a few. Hopefully this helps.

 

New problem, now when I start the car, unless I tap the gas, the rpms just drop and she shuts off.

 

Give the ETC re-learn procedure a try.

https://g35driver.com/forums/5982628-post4.html

 

Just went through that list and still the same, but it seems most of those are meant for when the cel is on because it mentions it blinking and whatnot. Mine is off, no blinking. As soon as I start the car it turns off as normal.

 

I have however noticed that one of the fuses on this http://www.thenismoshop.com/Nissan-F...15_p_1280.html was highly corroded, I took the ccover off and scraped the corrosion off when I did the big 3.

what is that and what does that control? Id like to wire that up a different way honestly because its in the way when using 1/0 wiring

the 100 amp link was the corroded one, ive never checked it before but it does look like at some point the previous owner had a major battery acid problem as the entire compartment has paint flaking and residual corrosion left behind. I bought the car in november, he repaced the battery 2 months prior

 

Removed the alt lead from the big 3, car starts just fine.

def going to need an alternator stock alt may have worked fine new but at 163k miles, shes probably not so healthy lol.

leaving my 1/0 grounds on as they wont hurt anything, but im leaving the amp power disconnected until I can fix the source.

might go ahead and do my door speakers and the smaller amp for now