marques, how does the 4080 enclosure mount to the vehicle? Thanks.

 

FYI, a battery and Cap does not do anything to increase the amount of power you will have to run large amps. The alternator is the key factor. A battery will only determine the reserve capacity. Caps help smooth out the slight voltage drops, but ultimately, if the alternator is not up to the task, the cap will never be able to maintain full capacity. It may actually put more load on the alternator if it is running at less than full. Caps discharge electricty faster than a battery can and are more ideal for short hard hits of music.

As far as Optima Batteries, I do recommend staying away from the red tops. The Yellow and blue tops are deep cycle and can suffer complete drains without permanent damage. Red tops are gone if you let it discharge a couple of times. The yellow and blue are internally the same. I prefer the blue as it has the standard top posts and then has a threaded male connection for the + & - leads which is ideal for stereo installs. I connect my Amplifier positive wire directly to this lead instead of modifying or replacing the factory battery connection. You could of course use the side post on a yellow or red top for this as well, but the marine battery is a bit cleaner IMO.

 

ive got a 500/1 on a 10W7 in a ported box, sounds awesome, and 300/4 on jl 6.5 components in front, 6.5 coax in rear, and 6x9 in the deck. no dimming or hesitation at all, alpine deck to. no caps, factory battery.

 

i have the jl 300/4 and 500/1 with a 10w7 and alpine cda-9833 headunit, my lights dim when i listen at very loud volumes, i have my gains properly set using a voltmeter, and another thing, the car jerks upon shifting while driving with the sub pounding at high volumes... so i dont think it can keep up with the stock alt so well, unless you guys here dont overwork your subs. i have no extra batt or cap either.