just wondering if i should tap into the front l/r or rear l/r or wooffer? for adding a amp & sub?

 

is there a reason why i never get replies to any of my posts???

 

not as much traffic comes through here as the general forums. just be a little patient.

 

Do you have a Bose? If so, tap the inputs to the amp and connect that to a line level converter. Then RCAs from the line level converter to the amp.

 

sorry for being bitchy... yes i have the bose system, should i tap into the front doors, rear doors, or wooffer???

 

You should tap the lines that run from the head unit and then into the amp. "After HU but before amp" Those line are high level outputs though so you will need a line level convertor or the high level inouts on your amp...if it has them.

 

scooby thanks for the reply, but there are a few different lines i can tap into.....

front left
front right
rear left
rear right
wooffer

What pair do you recommend I tap into??? fronts, rears, wooffer?

 

Yo Joe...

Like said before, just tap the wires after the Hu, before the Bose Amp. If you're going to setup a sub/amp combo only... it's fairly easy.

The Blows amp is located to the left of the spare tire in that box. Remove 3 bolts, and it comes right out. Look up the schematics to find which wires to tap (I tapped the Rear L/R for my sub). It shouldn't matter as the L/R signals are the same from the HU.

Run that tapped signal in to your amp. Depending on what amp you use, you might need a LOC. I used a JL Amp and I used an RCA to tap into the wires, and connected to the JL (no need for LOC).

Now stop being so moody...

 

Here is a link to a good article on this website for an amp install...

Amp Install

Shonuff totally removes the Bose amp which is not what I want to do. I think that the Bose amp is more than adequate to power the existing speakers...at least for me. I just want more bass. So I want to add a sub to my system. Here's how I plan on doing it...

Coming from the head unit are 4 speaker outs, LF,RF,LR,RR. According to Shonuff's install, they are connected to the Bose amp through the blue connector and are color coded as follows.

Head unit output colors

Head Output Front Right + Orange/Blue
Head Output Front Right - White/Blue

Head Output Front Left + White
Head Output Front Left - Orange

Head Output Rear Right + Blue
Head Output Rear Right - Pink

Head Output Rear Left + Teal
Head Output Rear Left - Purple

Remote Wire Light Blue/ Silver

I will use quick splices to "tap" the HU rear speaker output wires without cutting them so the signal to the rear speakers will still feed into the Bose amp as well as into my line level converter(LLC). I am going to be using a
Soundgate Loc4.2 LLC. This will convert the signal from the HU into low level RCA jacks which will feed my amp.

The output from the Bose amp is already filtered for tweeter, mid, and woofer depending on which sets of speakers the channel is feeding. The output from the HU is full range and at a lower power than the signal coming out of the Bose amp. I am hoping that this gives it a cleaner and fuller sound than tapping the speaker wires coming after the Bose amp.

 

not using a loc.... wouldnt that send hi mid and low signals to your amp??? wouldnt that compromise the sound comming out of your subs??? or does jl audio "slash" work around it?

 

u answered your own question....

 

guess jl slash series amp works around it.... what up with jl rca to speaker??? where can i but it, or something like it???

 

u gotta cut the rca ends off one end of the rcas....yea....read it slow, ull get it...then just connect it to the speaker wire, make sure u turn ur amp to high level input. Or jl makes a lil converter, but its prety expensive for what it is.

 

[QUOTE= Or jl makes a lil converter, but its prety expensive for what it is.[/QUOTE]

thought slash series handles the hi level with out a "lil converter"

 

The easy answer here that I believe you were looking for is... tap the rear speaker wires for the sub signal. Your amplifier will filter out the mids and his withs its cross over. Assuming your amp has a low pass crossover.