ok sorry i am a noob with wiring, im only using a test light not a multimeter just to see if im getting power on that orange wire which i am not. but if youre saying i shouldnt get a voltage reading from it then it shouldnt light up my test light either then right? The exact problem is pretty much yea i cant get the vdc and slip light back off. all i did was cut the orange 12v wire at the yaw connector end and wired in a switch. after that i reconnected the battery and couldnt get those lights off, so then i took it back apart and couldnt get power off that wire and tried just reconnecting the oem wire without anything else, just twisted the 2 cut orange wire ends back together and it was no longer working, acting like it was still disconnected. I thought maybe i was using the wrong gauge wire when it was wired to the switch but it still wont connect with just the orange wire twisted back together. I also removed one bolt that holds the yaw sensor in there to put a ring terminal under that side of the yaw sensor and then the bolt back through for ground to the switch which is just for the light on the switch. the bolt holes on the yaw sensor are plastic so i figured there would be no issue with that but could be wrong and thought id mention that too.

 

Ok you need fuse 88 in the IPDM and fuse in Fuse Block - J/B if you have a 2003 sedan. Yes the orange wire should have 12 volts I was wrong about it all being data. Here's 2003 sedan stuff.

 

Appears to be the same for 2003 sedan AND coupe so those latest snippets should work.

 

thank you, i just double checked those and both are working however fuse number 20 in the j/b is labelled in the diagram as a 10amp but there is a 15amp in there..

 

Next I would probe the orange lead at the VDC box (not the yaw sensor) to verify it's actually sending the correct voltage out, it's possible the wire is damaged somewhere along the line before the yaw sensor.

Also you need to get yourself a digital multimeter, even a really cheap Cen-Tech meter from harbor freight is better than nothing. Those little junky Cen-Tech's are good enough for automotive use. They have a selectable range of resistance instead of an auto-select like better meters use but once you're familliar with where to set the dial they work just fine and only cost like $10

 

Also check your test light against the battery to verify IT still works since that's your only test equipment at the moment.

 

It's also worth noting that once you flip the switch to power-off the yaw sensor, you have to restart the car with the switch back in the power-on position in order to turn traction control back on.

 

Yep exactly, the vehicle doesn't initialize the system on the fly, it requires a power cycle (turn the car of then back on) to clear the dash light and enable the system.

 

I wonder if there is a bypass for that.

 

Yes ill have to get a multimeter soon for sure. I went the lazy route though didnt wanna take too much apart and t spliced into the 12v constant from the obd port and blew a fuse i believe this 15a that says inj eng cont. Would i be able to put a higher amperage fuse in and make it work?

 

No, you risk starting a fire if you use a higher amperage fuse. The overcurrent protection (fuse) is sized on the wire and if you put more amps through the wire than it can handle it starts to glow orange, the insulation melts off, then your car burns to the ground.

 

I would also check the HARNESS you unplugged for the yaw sensor, it's possible you bent one of the pins over when reinstalling it and it's shorted out against another pin.

 

Okay appreciate the help man, id rather not burn my car lol not worth it. I will check the pins on the harness at the sensor end and if it looks ok ill get into the vdc box and check those pins.

 

If it looks okay but still not getting power* then ill go to the vdc box

 

So im at the vdc control unit with the plug disconnected and have no power on pin 34, that is the pin i should be checking correct? Cause this diagram says it connects to that orange wire.