This piece of equipment has brought my system to life. It's bascially a equalizer like the AudioControl EQS(T), but its an in-dash mount with a built in line-driver. It cost me $90 from a local dealer. It has helped me "gain" control over the screeching highs and add the midbass I wanted (plus Sub control). I wanted to go the AudioControl route, but decided to get this so that I could mount it in the cabin of my car. I'm still deciding where to place it (maybe inside the center console). But in the meantime I'll be enjoying great-sounding tunes. I couldn't find the item on ebay, but the updated version the "21010" is listed at $140.

BTW
(I need to update my signature)

I'm running 2 Memphis amps (4channel 75x4 and a D-ClassMono)

Boston Acoustics SL60 components
Boston Acoustics SL65 coaxial
JL Audio 10 w3 in 4080 Enclosure
Eclipse 21000 EQ/Line Driver
Navone LOC

One Bulk Case of Extreme Dynamat
One Extreme Dynamat Trunk Kit
(AND I STILL HAVE F-ING RATTLES!!!)


**I've retired my US amp (too power hungry)**

 

do you have any pictures???? how was this installed? DIY or the dealer?

 

1st

Shooter I did all the installs on my car. Working under the cover of darkness (after work).

 

pic

 

pic

I made an Ipod Mount using some epoxy, a black metal, a Belkin Ipod Mount (less the cupholder portion) and the ash tray insert. I figure is a quick and easy way to accomplish what I wanted to do. Also, it can easily be reverted back to stock with the purchase a new ashtray insert.

The lighting was very bad for the pictures.

Right now I have the Eclipse EQ on the backseat, because I am trying to decide the best place to mount it.

 

more

 

Nice install...I dynamatted my entire trunk and still had rattle. One day I decide to find the culprit and I did...first you have to go to your local Home Depot and purchase a can of "Great Stuff" foam insulation make sure you get the blue can for windows. Next you'll remove all trunk mats and grey liners along the back and sides of your trunk to expose sheet metal...remove the black plastic piece that surrounds the trunk latch. Now on the trunk lid: remove the grey carpet piece to expose sheet metal. Now get your Great Stuff and spray anywhere you can get the long nozzle to fit...ideally you want to get in-between areas where metal meet metal. Spray inside the area where the rear lights are (there is lot's of gaps where metal will vibrate and resonate) make sure not to spray over the 3 bolts that hold the rear lights. Bumper: spray behind the bumper...the goal here is to fill in the area where the plastic bumper cover meets the metal bumper structure.

This worked for me and was able to get 95% satifaction

 

here is a few pics of what i did to my car.........i used the spray foam as well (MAKE SURE YOU DO NOT USE THE EXPANDING TYPE OF FOAM, YOU WILL DEFORM THE PANELS) see the trunk lid? completely filled with spray foam (still need to exercise common sense and not overfill the cavities, go slow) and a couple of small pieces of dynamat on the flat panels........i also used attic insulation in the LARGE cavities between the outer body panels and inner compartment panels, but of course i first put large pieces of dynamat on the inside of the outer body panels, reaching inside those cavities as far as i could reach...also spray glued carpet underlayment on the back side of all inside panels, in the trunk and under the back seat.

a lot of work went into this....took about 5 days (did it over thanksgiving holiday........)

BUT.....I reduced the road noise 4-7 db measured with a spl meter (depending on the road).......before sound deadening 72-74 db........after 67-68 db, well worth it for a quiet ride

 

LOL Niiiiice! Now one thing you have to do...there are two adjustable button type snaps on th trunk lid...if you lift the trunk lid you'll see them to the left and right of the locking mechanism...you need to lower these so that the trunk lid will not rattle and move...I hope I'm explaining this corrctly....I'll submit pics to show you

 

See red arrows

 

Thanks Shooter & MorenoEnNYC for the advice. My Coupe is gonna weigh an extra ton (and take an extra second to reach 60 mph), after I get done sound insulating.

I going to give that spray foam a try. Besides I am done Dynamating for a while. My hands, despite the use of gloves, have taken a beating. That stuff is razor sharp.


I'm disappointed with the limited amount of sound deadening material, that Nissan used at the factory. They missed a ton of spots.

 

That is why you do the performance mods to catch it back up