So i take my car to the dealer but it has the wiring going into the driver side controls (one wire with 2 leads soldered on to the board) and they said i would need to undo it before they can service my motor because of problems in which the passanger side wasnt always working properly, so anyway, went home took the switch apart and undid the Viper aftermarket wire which was soldered on to the board and wrote the schematics down as to where to 2 soldering points went. now i get the car back fixed with new motor and want to solder the wire back on but I CANT FIND THE DAMN PAPER WITH SCHEMATICS) does any one know what 2 points to solder back the wire? hope im making sense. this really sucks cause it had a + and a - and now that might never be solved as to which goes on which point. or does it matter? anyway, anyone with this knowledge, can you please post? thanks RX

 

nothing should have been soldered to the 'board.' The wires should have been tapped in to the wire harness going to the power window module.

Also, there shouldn't be a + and a -, there should be two -s. Finally, if these wires were disconnected you should NOT be able to lock or unlock the doors.

When you arm the car one of the free wires should send a (-) pulse (this would be your lock wire), and when you disarm the car the other wire should send two (-) pulses (the unlock wire). Hook the lock wire to the Yellow wire in the car and the unlock wire to the Lt Blue wire.

 

well let me explain. it very well may be soldered on the board for another reason i just assumed thats what it was for. i cant test my alarm because my remote got wet and i need a new one. anyway the speaker wire WAS attached to the actuall mother board one point on one side and the other on the other side on a diffrent soldering point.
can you tell me what that wire is for then? i also need to add that when the guy did it for me, i didnt have the up/dn modules and still havnt got them yet however he said it was READY FOR THE MODULE AND THATS IT. i need to get the correct DEI module which is why he didnt finish the job. but again, WHY is this wire soldered on the board and can you please help me figure out what points the wire was on? i know the guy did know what he was doing cause my auto start and al other features are working fine. i guess when i get a new remote i can test to see if the wire is for something other than the up down. please help. thanks again RX

 

Honestly, it sounds like he has no clue whats going on with the G35. DEI window modules arn't needed on the G. There are better ways to do it, much better. I have NO idea why anyone would solder anything to any board inside your door. Take a picture and post it on here or Email it to me. You really can't get to the circuit board on the power window module (where I am thinking) without being a little destructive.

 

i will take a pic tom. but its basicaly popping out the switches on the driver door and butter knife 4 notches then slide it out of the plastic. why then did he do this? the other end of that wire goes directly through the door gromet where all the other wires go through the door to the car. he said he would get my car "UP/DN ready for when i got the up/dn module made by dei. how else do i get my top of the line Viper alarm to give me up and down without the DEI module. (i think my Viper is the 791XV). ok thanks youve been helpfull. please help some more. i will say that he did an awesome job with the rest of the alarm and i tell you there were wires "every frickin where" upon install so he must have known something. anyway thanks again HELP! RX

 

If there were wires everywhere thats typically a sign of a bad install

THere is a diagram posted somewhere on how to take one AUX validity channel and control the windows in both directions. A $5 part vs. a $50 part. If you have two AUX channels then you can individually control each window from separate buttons.

Also, you can raise the windows by holding the lock wire to ground for X amount of seconds and you can lower them by holding the unlock wires to ground for X amount of seconds.

Not all the wires from the Power window module go in to the car, but the important ones to control the windows with relays do. There is NO reason to run wires in to the doors to sue the DEI module. Keep in mind that that is a weatherproof seal that has now been compromised (and all inner door electronics warranties have been voided, including your BCM most likely...)

Arn't car alarms fun?

 

i got a pretty cool dealer in which they dont penalize for stuff like that. he just wanted me to make it look stock so he didnt have to take an extra step to get the motor replaced. anyway, i see your part of the Florida club. where you located? I myself am from Lauderdale. DO YOU WANT TO MAKE A FEW BUCKS? installing the up/down aspect of my Viper alarm? I guess i really should have had a shop do the job but no one would because of the REMOTE START i have on a manual. anyway. i seriously would pay you to at least take a look at my car and tell me what to do myself. RX

 

I'm a sponsor, not a member, I own www.KPtechnologies.com and work closely with the FGC to develop and test products. They rock. You might have better luck contacting SFLG35, he is in Tampa and does lots of this kind of work.

And, I was thinking about my post above, and I think I was wrong. I don't think the power window wires run in to the car, just the serial link. So, you would have to run wires, but you would technically need FOUR wires to raise and lower windows, UNLESS he is soldering right to the switches. If that is the case, it will only work when the car is on....

 

OK well thats what he did. he took and soldered one wire (two leads) to the switch by way of the board. nothing wrong with that right? also, he never told me wether i would have to have the ignition on or not. you have to remember that this install was just after i bought my car and its a 2003 &1/2 almost 2 years ago when people didnt knowmuch on the electrics of the car.
ok now, which way would you then solder the 2 lead wire onto the switches? and then, what do i need to do to get the up/dn to work with ig on? I'm almost positive he knew what he was doing by installing that wire the fact that the car may need to be on to do this is another story in which i didnt realy think about much. HELP! RX

 

on second thought, i don't really know i'm defending this guy who did the install. It does however work perfect. he another separate question. is there a device or way of having the remote start not work if the car is in gear? i assume there must be some type of kill for it. thanks again. RX

 

Do a search for PNP switch. I have covered that topic in several threads as well.

 

thanks i will. RX

 

hey man, im looking for that post on the pnp switch and all i get is a post in which you reply that you dont exactly rememer the wire (or something to that effect and this is because) you had previously posted it however, i can find that post. thanks for your help. RX

 

https://g35driver.com/forums/engine-drivetrain-forced-induction/18467-remote-starts-neutral-safety-switch.html

 

Hey Man, well i got a new remote for my alarm today and it seems that the wire that i removed was actually for the door looks to work with the alarm. so the post i wrote last time regarding the up down of the wiondows was actually for the Door locks im assuming because when i press the arm/unarm buttons on the remote, it only does just that and not lock or unlock the doors. so my question is: WHERE DO I SOLDER THAT WIRE COMING FROM THE ALARM THATS GOING INTO THE DRIVER DOOR SO THAT MY LOCK/UNLOCK MODE WORKS? I'M ASSUMING THATS WHAT THAT WIRE WAS FOR AND NOW I HAVE NO IDEA WHERE THE 2 SOLDERING POINTS ARE. CAN YOU HELP?

So i take my car to the dealer but it has the wiring going into the driver side controls (one wire with 2 leads soldered on to the board) and they said i would need to undo it before they can service my motor because of problems in which the passanger side wasnt always working properly, so anyway, went home took the switch apart and undid the Viper aftermarket wire which was soldered on to the board and wrote the schematics down as to where to 2 soldering points went. now i get the car back fixed with new motor and want to solder the wire back on but I CANT FIND THE DAMN PAPER WITH SCHEMATICS) does any one know what 2 points to solder back the wire? hope im making sense. this really sucks cause it had a + and a - and now that might never be solved as to which goes on which point. or does it matter? anyway, anyone with this knowledge, can you please post? thanks RX