My CleanSweep Review
#31
AC G35, you have to hook up an EQ to truly appreciate the difference. I tell you what send me 25$ and I'll send you a Navone LOC to hookup. Now I’m not bashing Navone equipment (he was great in helping me on the install and my answering my questions). His equipment is great! But the CS is in a league of its own.
I started with a LOC and went to a CleanSweep, the clarity and volume is night and day, but I'd expect that from a piece of equipment that costs 5-6 times a much.
I think JL needs to inform buyers of the CS that an EQ is almost necessary to truly enjoy what the CS has to offer. Just my 2 cents worth.
In fact, Manville, how bout including one with the CS, separately or integrated. Wishful thinking
I started with a LOC and went to a CleanSweep, the clarity and volume is night and day, but I'd expect that from a piece of equipment that costs 5-6 times a much.
I think JL needs to inform buyers of the CS that an EQ is almost necessary to truly enjoy what the CS has to offer. Just my 2 cents worth.
In fact, Manville, how bout including one with the CS, separately or integrated. Wishful thinking
#32
I don't think that it should matter about the EQ. The before and after button is what is supposed to sale the CS. I have a Venn 4 and I am going to replace it this Sat w/my CS no matter what the final results are. i am hoping an aquaintinance w/a RTA will measue the outputs on the HU before and after the CS to see the difference. If the signal is flat from the Hu the CS should do nothing to improve it, flat is flat!!
I do think the additional preamp voltage will help but a regular line driver would do that also.
Mark
I do think the additional preamp voltage will help but a regular line driver would do that also.
Mark
#33
#34
For me, matching gains on amps, eq, Xovers, LOC is getting rid of as much hiss (sound floor ??) as possible while still being able to what I want from my amps, up to full power. Sometimes people don't want to go to max power to keep from blowing items up or keep some head room.
My decision to buy a CS was also based on making sure I have the best LOC or at least one that will not be questioned (read "blamed by some know it all") as why my stereo has a characteristic I may not be happy with when finished.
What forum were you on??
Mark
My decision to buy a CS was also based on making sure I have the best LOC or at least one that will not be questioned (read "blamed by some know it all") as why my stereo has a characteristic I may not be happy with when finished.
What forum were you on??
Mark
#37
I don't have professional equipment, but... I ran RTA software (1/6 octave) using my carPC and a NON-calibrated testing mic (yamaha full range 20 Hz-20Khz) and the response was pretty darn flat. There was a slight dip (less than 2-3 db - I'd have to check) at 200 Hz and at 2kHz but this dip was specific to the overall system (I have stock HU+Infinity 7451a AMP + diamond audio S600a front + M361i rear coaxials) - not just the HU. I tested this by first playing pink noise generated by my Extigy through the amp and then playing from the HU CD. There was not much difference at all (that I could detect at 1/6 octave resolution).
I think the nice thing about the CS is that every car/system is going to be slightly different and it can correct for it in an automated fashion. If you can get your car tested using a RTA and the EQ is flat, then perhaps an extra component is not necessary.
I know that originally I had an Alpine 7 channel parametric EQ wired to "fix" the HU thinking it would be way off. Once I found that the HU was pretty flat, I moved the EQ to actually adjust the output of my "real HU" (the Extigy) just before going to the amp.
So I went from:
HU -> EQ -> Extigy -> AMP ->
to:
HU -> Extigy -> EQ -> AMP ->
I can take screenshots of the RTA playing pink noise if you want... The display obviously changes with the engine running vs off (low Hz "noise") - I calibrated with the car idling (i.e. I did not try to fix the 200 Hz dip as it gets overshadowed by road noise).
CAVAET - let me repeat: I did not do this test using a professional RTA - I just wanted a "reasonable" way to calibrate my EQ to flat before adjusting to my liking. That being said the yamaha calibration mic came with my high end yamaha receiver and the Extigy used for sound acquisition (being an external unit kept a couple feet away from the carPC) is of reasonable quality for playback and recording.
I think the nice thing about the CS is that every car/system is going to be slightly different and it can correct for it in an automated fashion. If you can get your car tested using a RTA and the EQ is flat, then perhaps an extra component is not necessary.
I know that originally I had an Alpine 7 channel parametric EQ wired to "fix" the HU thinking it would be way off. Once I found that the HU was pretty flat, I moved the EQ to actually adjust the output of my "real HU" (the Extigy) just before going to the amp.
So I went from:
HU -> EQ -> Extigy -> AMP ->
to:
HU -> Extigy -> EQ -> AMP ->
I can take screenshots of the RTA playing pink noise if you want... The display obviously changes with the engine running vs off (low Hz "noise") - I calibrated with the car idling (i.e. I did not try to fix the 200 Hz dip as it gets overshadowed by road noise).
CAVAET - let me repeat: I did not do this test using a professional RTA - I just wanted a "reasonable" way to calibrate my EQ to flat before adjusting to my liking. That being said the yamaha calibration mic came with my high end yamaha receiver and the Extigy used for sound acquisition (being an external unit kept a couple feet away from the carPC) is of reasonable quality for playback and recording.
Last edited by rcdash; 07-15-2005 at 04:58 PM.
#38
BTW, now that I take a close (squinting here) at the graphs above, particularly the 2nd graph - I notice that the "before" graph has a dip that is less than -3dB. It is not surprising that the difference is difficult to hear, particularly in a noisy environment.
I assume that the CS have a calibration mic to take into account speakers that do not have a flat response? Or is it "flattening" based on the HU input signal alone?
No question the CS is putting out a REAL flat signal - it's pretty impressive.
I assume that the CS have a calibration mic to take into account speakers that do not have a flat response? Or is it "flattening" based on the HU input signal alone?
No question the CS is putting out a REAL flat signal - it's pretty impressive.
Last edited by rcdash; 07-15-2005 at 04:56 PM.
#39
RC
What I am looking for (and the graphs represent)is the measurement on the output of the HU, not actual sound but signal to the CS and then the measurement afterwards. This information will tell how much a CS is needed and how much correction it actually does.
So yes it only corrects the HU signal, not in car sound
Mark
What I am looking for (and the graphs represent)is the measurement on the output of the HU, not actual sound but signal to the CS and then the measurement afterwards. This information will tell how much a CS is needed and how much correction it actually does.
So yes it only corrects the HU signal, not in car sound
Mark
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