Ok I finally got around to doing a review of the CleanSweep.

Pictures will have to follow this posting.


Installation:
Ok installation was relatively easy, I tapped the wires running from the HU (before the Bose Amp). Prior the CleanSweep I was using the Navone LOC and Eclipse EQ, that created the slightest hiss (almost inaudible) however I could tell it was there. I ran the CleanSweeps power and ground to the distributions blocks I currently use for my amps. The JL advisor recommended this method to avoid any engine noise. He was right, I have NO engine noise or hiss whatsoever.
Unfortunately, with the CleanSweep you have to use (for ideal performance) the volume control supplied with the unit. The remote volume control is run via an (s-video type) cable. JL gives you plenty of wire to work with. I ran mine under the carpet through the center console. I’ve installed my volume control (pics will show) just left of my shift **** (5at), the volume control also has a light to indicate whether the CleanSweep is on, and if AUX is selected. I installed this light just above the volume control ****. Luckily JL includes an optional “metallic ****” that works well with the Graphite interior.
The location I chose for volume **** was a matter of convenience to remedy a past modification mistake because it covers a hole I caused while experimenting with an iPod mount. It just so happens such a location suits me for a volume control. I’m sure there are other locations.

Configuration:
After hooking everything up, I loaded the supplied JL “configure” CD and turned the volume to 20. For setup purposes, JL recommends turning the volume of the HU between ˝ and 2/3, so I choose 20 (I later configured it at volume 16).
WARNING: BE SURE TO TURN THE VOLUME OF THE CLEANSWEEP ALL THE WAY DOWN BEFORE CONFIGURING!! I forgot to do this, and my ears are paying for it  I digress.
I played track 1 from the JL supplied CD, and pressed configure on the CleanSweep, I used a paperclip to press the configure button. Within seconds the CleanSweep lights started changing colors, until I got 4 green lights, which means a successfully signal correction. Make sure you have the treble, bass, balance and fader of the HU set at zero.

First Impressions:
The CleanSweep creates a loud, very loud but “flat” signal (which is exactly what it is suppose to do). I measured that the CleanSweep is sending about 2.5 to 2.6 RMS Volts to the amps, the peak claim is 8 volt. I verified my findings with the JL rep at tech support. Keep in mind this is a very clean 2.5-2.6 volts. I never expected my system to sound as loud and clean. On the negative side of things, I do not understand why JL did not include a Sub Out with a Sub volume control, but this is an easy work-around for many. I just split the rear channels, and may run a line-driver, to boost the power to the Sub.

JL recommends that you leave the HU at the configured volume (20 in my case, 16 now), and adjust via the supplied volume ****. I noticed a slight distortion if I used the HU volume at high volume. However, reducing the volume via the HU unit caused no audible hiss or whine. However, I have no problem using the volume control supplied with the CleanSweep, especially after mounting it. The CleanSweep is small enough to mount in the Bose Amp location (with minor modifications). I am still experimenting with different HU volume sets.

Need for EQ:
That’s right I think it needs an EQ to make the most out of the sound coming from the CleanSweep. Many people may be satisfied with the way it sounds out of the box, but I’m one of those people that like adjusting the sound to my taste. The HU’s bass and treble adjustments are IMO worthless. Prior to the CleanSweep, I had an Eclipse EQ running after my Navone Loc, and I really enjoyed the sound (except for the hiss). Unfortunately I no longer have the EQ to test it again, but my ears can tell the “flatness” which is what it is suppose to do. The HU’s Bass and Treble adjustment has minimum affect (especially the treble). I am going to test out a Clarion EQ, another Eclipse EQ, and an AudioControl unit, and will post my results.

Bottomline:
The CleanSweep is a very expensive LOC that will help you create a monster of a sound system. Does everyone need it, NO!! Many people will be perfectly happy with a LOC/EQ combo for substantially less money.

Pros:
Very Loud Clean Sound
Compact
Easy to set-up

Cons:
Price
No Sub-out
Still need an EQ.

Stay Tuned for Pics. I will try to answer all the questions you all may have. Pictures will be posted as soon as I get home tonight.

BTW: I paid $349 plus tax for mine from a authorized JL reseller.

 

I have purchased mine today for 350 , had to sweet talk him down but it worked. I hope I get it installed this weekend but I don't think so.

I have 1 comment/critisism for the above review. To my understanding the CS is supposed to change your preamp signal to a a realitively flat curve such as you would get with an after market deck. With most aftermaket systems you would still use an eq.the CS is not going to replace an EQ but give it a flat signal to work with. It appeaers as though the writer expects not to need the EQ and that is not the intention of the product

Mark

 

from where, I cant find one for nothing

 

Very nice review.

Thanks.

 

Opimax, I agree with what you are saying, I just expected the HU EQ to be sufficient for my needs, as some aftermarket decks supply more than enough EQ adjustments to fine tune the sound. But for 350$ I did expect something a bit more.


Will_blueprint: I got the unit from a local dealer in my area, he had to special order it, but it came in three days (ordered monday, recieved Wed.)

 

I can understand wanting more and if nothing else a few presets BUT since it has to work on so many different vehicles that might be hard to set and the main selling point is what it saves you. The price of dash componets cost more than the device and if you included labor even more. On some vehicles it is much worse!!

You stated that it isn't for everybody and I agree. Some will be happy w/tweeter replacements (they are 4 ohm so that is easy) and enhance the bass with some simple tube or bass link but I have a completely stealth install w/pretty good quality equipment To keep it stealth this is the best product to date. I did in 1 vehicle cut out the factory face plate and have a recessed deck behind it, that worked but was kind of 2nd rate and pain to live with

I also agree it is a bit prciey but as more companies make something like this lets hope the price comes down.

Mark

 

good review, thanks for doing that......

so....it doesn't sound worth the money for the CS. The CS, from what was written, is basically an "amplified LOC". Is this somewhat correct? Either with the CS or an LOC, you're still going to need an EQ with the stock HU? The only difference between the CS and an LOC is the voltage output? Do you think a cleaner, more powerful amp combined with a LOC be comparable to the CS combined with a less clean, less powerful amp?

good review though....thank goodness I did the DD conversion........lol

doc

 

Doc,

The purpose of the CS is provide a clean, flat, noise free signal to your after market equipment. The signal from the Bose head piece is not flat. they have tweeked it make the sound in the car to the taste that I would assume is what they think a listner wants using thier amp and speakers.

Their speakers may not make much sound over 10khz (just an random number for demo purpose) and they set the electronics in the head unit to send a signal that has already raised at 10khz to their equipment. Now you replace their amp and speakers w/quality after market stuff. Your expensive amp and speakers are receiving a signal as though your treble control is maxed out. it would sound like breaking glass instead of a nice cymbal hit. The same may be tru low bass notes or even just the opposite no bass. If you have an eq you have to boost the bass just to break even. This could be done many times over the signal so it could have many dips and spikes.

The CS automatically adjust the signal to get rid of the spikes and valleys so you quality equipment sounds normal to begin with and lets you adjust the sound to your taste with your equipment not theirs

I hope this makes sense

mark

 

Doc, the CS produces a very clean signal, that I believe only a "few" will appreciate, like OPIMAX, it delivers as promised, but if someone is going to spend the $$ to buy the CS, then they will be buying an EQ too.

Bottom line, its a very expensive LOC, which does a great job of cleaning up the signal..

 

Nice review, thank you. Just to clear a couple of things up.

The intent of the CleanSweep is to provide a flat signal (like an aftermarket head unit) and to convert it to line level. It also permits an aux source to be added (which does not get EQ'd by the CleanSweep. This means that the freq. response of the OEM head and the aux source (which is assumed to be flat) will match so you can switch back and forth without changing the sound. In simple terms, it gets you back to a neutral starting point so you can build a good system behind it.

Any acoustic/speaker related issues have to be dealt with after the CleanSweep, either by tweaking passive crossover settings (if available), crossover points, gains or by adding an EQ if necessary. In my car (05 Legacy GT) I am using a CleanSweep with no EQ after it and it sounds fantastic after tweaking the passive crossovers and the active crossovers in the amps.

As for the line level output, the CleanSweep will output 8 volts undistorted but it calibrates to around a 2 volt level at max. volume. This is done so that you can still boost bass and treble (or raise the OEM volume past the calibration point) without clipping the CleanSweep's outputs.

It is much more than an "expensive LOC"... it effectively and automatically corrects freq. response of the OEM source, it provides an aux input, it is a preamp/line-driver/linear master volume, it manages your system turn-on via signal sensing and it does all of this while retaining exceptional fidelity and very low noise. Typical line level converters often introduce distortion at high levels, have cross-talk issues, are not linear in freq. response and are not going to help your signal-to-noise performance.

Is it for everyone? No... it's for those who wish to get the highest level of audio performance while retaining the factory head unit. For a less critical listener, line converters would probably be fine in a G35.

I agree it would have been nice to have a sub output with a level control and this is something we will definitely consider for future versions. In the meantime you can use your sub amp's remote bass control (if it has one) or insert a line level volume control before your sub amp inputs.

Once again, thanks for the review ShadyG... let me know if I can help you tweak it out in any way.

Best regards,

Manville Smith
JL Audio, Inc.

 

i thought it didnt have any tweaking on there, it does it all automatically?

 

Nice to see Manville made it to our humble lil corner of the interweb. Especially with the fires he has been figting over at CS&P.

 

Manville,

Actually I have a question before I install. The first would be can we get any settings and hints from the install that the emplyee did on his unit such as where he set his max volume on his head unit for callibration? what year and model does he have? any other hints that his experience which will make mine easier.

Thank you

Mark

 

The rep's car is a 2003 G35 Sedan with the Bose system.

I don't remember exactly what the volume setting was, but it was around 2/3 of the way up. The guy who owns the car is a rep, not an employee, so I don't see him every day. I'll ask him next time I talk to him.

Symalik... I meant tweaking the whole system, not the CleanSweep.There are some really useful test tracks on the CleanSweep calibration CD to help you set up the polarity of your speakers, gains, etc.

Best regards,

Manville Smith
JL Audio, Inc.

 

Manville, thank for your input it’s nice to see a JL Rep here. I hope you did not take offense to my "expensive" LOC comment, I personally had very high expectations for the unit. I understand it performs its primary function "perfectly".

I've got a couple of questions:

1. So you would suggest a "passive" EQ as opposed to an EQ/linedriver. Any suggestions?

2. I currently have the signal sensing option off, because I have Navigation, and there are times I am using the NAV w/o my stereo on. I haven't tried it with the option on.

3. I have an iPod connected via a PAC unit through the SAT channel, I've noticed almost no sound (clarity and otherwise)difference between using the AUX input on the CleanSweep and through the SAT input, is there something I am missing, because, ideally I would love to disconnect the PAC unit and have Sat. Radio without losing function of my iPod (connected through CS's AUX) input. Unfortunately, my NAV will no longer work with my iPod but that is a sacrifice I can live with.


Thanks again for your response.