so im getting ready to install a couple amps and capacitor and need to know which side to run my lines on. i have seen on some posts to run the lines specifically on one side but cant remember whgich side amd why? thanks RX

 

The stock power lines run on the driver side which is why I chose to run the new power lines down the same side. All of my signals to the HU run on the passenger side.

 

I rememberr sieng somewhwre that its best on a certain side to decrease hum, etc etc
just want to make sure i choose the correct side before i strat. anyone else got any info for me? thanks again RX

 

well the hum is interferance you get when you run the rca beside the power. So if (I don't know if it is) the stock power line is on the driver side, you'll want to run your rca on the opposite (passenger) side.

 

well if i use the bose amp i wont need any rca's to run right? im using the stock head unit but im running the bass **** from my ash tray back to the amp. will this interfere with the power cable? i was also told i need an Line out convertor LOC in order to feed off the bose amp. anyone have any info on this? thanks. RX

 

You can run the wires on whichever side you choose or feel its easier. Running RCAs and power wires on seperate sides of the car is a myth, with absolutely no truth backing it. IF you do get any noise, it isnt because theyre run on the same side.

 

Many DIY guides (including at the Crutchfield website) recommend running the power lines separate from the RCAs. I can't confirm or deny the truth but better to be safe than sorry... myth or no myth...

Twisted pair RCA cables are awesome for noise rejection though.

Anyway if you're splicing wires in the trunk then that is not an issue. You can run your power line on either side I suppose.

In support of what Pearl05G said though, I first ran 6 ga wire on the passenger side cause I was being lazy, right alongside the signal wires, and I got no noise.

When I realized the power requirements were going up, I ran another 4 ga wire on the driver side, disconnected the 6 gauge but continued to use it as a "hyperground" wire going from the chassis of the HU to the trunk.

Anyway - never had an issue with noise. (Well i did at one point have an issue, but it was because the plug behind the HU had come partially out - disconnected - doh, what a PIA that was to figure out).

 

In actualality...battery to amp,amp to ground,battery is ground...They all share one common thing, ground. Regardless of what side theyre on, youll always be near the ground.

I still usually seperate them, as I learned that way back in the mid 80s, since then it was just common practice for me to do so. I didnt in my car, but thats an unfair comparison as the power is ran with my CAT5.

Yea rcdash, I hear ya, its always the simpliest things that take forever to figure out.

 

thanks for the info guys. again though, i need a diagram on how to do the install. im looking to hook up my Hifonics Brutus for lows, Alpine 4 channel for all else and a capacitor. im going with the JL audio amp wiring kit which contains a 2 gauge and an 4 gauge set of power wires. anyway, i mainly need a good refrence for the install. i do have one source from NYCG35 but was wondering if anyone else had another link to another source. BTW im using a pair of 10 inch Punch Powers in a custon box i built and JL audio for the other speakers. i did however choose to keep the rear deck speakers stock. thanks and help! RX

 

Is this guide the one you are referring to?

I thought it was pretty good - what is missing in that that you need?

 

yea thats the one i have, just looking to see if any others are out there to compare thats all. i do have a question regarding the LOC. is this the basic box that allows you to hook up the rca from the amps by way of speaker lines? RX

 

Yes, the LOC will take speaker level signals (either before or after the amp) and trim them down to line level. Some have used the signal before the amp and not needed the LOC at all (the HU apparently puts out a max 2.2 V signal). Others claim the noise free signal is better acheived splicing after the amp.

I used the PAC AOEM-NIS to get RCA outputs from the back of my stock HU - so never had to do any splicing.

 

Ive always added RCA leads from behind the HU. Years of doing this with Maximas and other similiar vehicles, since its already a low level theres no issues. Using a LOC IMO is just another component to add that isnt needed.

Same process in reverse if adding a new HU to the factory amps.