Anyone have instructions for hardwiring a Valentine radar detector to the power in the home link system (in the rear view mirror)?

 

1)Cut the end of the phone jack looking wire that comes with the V1. Only need to cut the end you intend on attaching to the HomeLink harness.

2) The harness is in the back of the mirror, no need to disasemble the mirror. Just unplug the harness and unwrap some of that black plastic closer to the end of the plastic connector. It may be uncomfy while working so pull your seat all the way up.

3) From the end that you cut the phone jack off on your V1 wire,the ends of the Green Wire (this is your ground) and the ends of the red wire (this is your +12V) are all you will connect to the homelink. The yellow and black will not be used.

4) Go to Home depot and buy wire taps. They are about 2 bucks at any electrical hardware store.

5) On your harness there will be three wires, a Black/Pink, Black, Black/Red. You will use the wire taps to connect your RED (V1 wire) to the harness's BLACK/PINK and your GREEN (V1 wire) will go to the all BLACK wire in the middle of the Homelink connector. And your done.

If you don't know, wire taps will allow you to steal power from the harness without having to CUT the wires, this way you can always go back to original condition if need be.

 

Thanks, I appreciate the detailed instructions! I'm ordering the V1 this week.

 

Why not just use an empty space in the driverside kick panel? Not only is it better than using power from the mirror it would look better too. Wire taps on the back of the mirror just don't sound that good to me, but I guess its how ever you feel like doing it. The wires on the mirror are pretty small so its kinda limited on how much current you can draw from it.

 

Well the only issue with using the fuse box is that you have to run wire around the dash. How easy is it to remove panels to hide the wires?

 

I didn't use wire taps because I knew it would be bulky back there so I just spliced into the wire and used electrical tape. I haven't any problems with current draw so far.

 

Just finished my install, went with SLVRG35's method. Took 2 secs to remove the trim to hide the wire up to the top of the visor. That way the wire tucks into the visor when I park and remove the RD. Thanks for everyone's help.

 

Do you have a picture of the end result. How did you remove the trim to hide the wire?

 

Speedoholic did a nice writeup of a DIY for a hardwire install for the Passport 8500 x50. Hardwiring of other radar detectors should be the same. I helped Diesel1 on his install this weekend. Takes no longer than 30min.
http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4288850807

- You can tuck the wire on the top of the windshield
- run the wires thru the A-pillar (pops out easily with a pull)
- run the wires along the left of the console
- you then tap the "Cig Lighter" fuse (get a fuse tap with a 12v connector from Radio Shack)
- Find a Ground (I used the kick pedal with washers to create a good ground. Make SURE you have a good ground connection, or it won't work )
- There's ONE 10mm bolt that holds in the bottom of the Steering column. Everything else is held on by clips. Simply pull from the right side, and work your way around.
- from there, you can put the control module of the Hardwire kit wherever you choose.


Hope this helps.

 

I hate to say this, but thats really sloppy work. Thats the type of stuff the dealership love to see. There are wires running everywhere.

 

I don't have a pic yet, but I'll try to get one and post this week. The trim removal was easy, I wedged it out with a screwdriver and it snapped back in perfectly.

 

How is this sloppy work??! The only piece of wire you see is the cord connected to the radar.

All the wires are hidden, and if done correctly with zip ties/etc.... there are no dangling wires. Btw... I did have to take my car into the dealership to fix that CD issue with my left speaker... guy told me nice clean install.

I love it when guys like you have no useful feedback except to rip on others.

To the original poster... if you have any question, feel free to PM me.

 

I was meaning below the dash around the fuse box. It looks as if your ground is actually coming out where the panel snaps back on. But hey, don't take it personal, its just my opinion. What does it matter what I think. I just said what I thought and nothing else.

 

Not starting a flame war or anything... just wanted to express my opinion as well.

And if you read my FULL post... I wrote: "- you then tap the "Cig Lighter" fuse (get a fuse tap with a 12v connector from Radio Shack)"

That way, you can just connect the 12V power supply provided with the hardwire kit, right into that fuse piggyback plug for 12V applications.

As far as the ground, no you don't use the fuse box. You would use the kick pedal to find a true grounding point. The pix are for reference, you can simply run the wire around the plastic kick panel, tucked nicely under that kick pedal.

This is my last response and I wish to keep these threads as informative as possible without rambling.

Oh, and you're right, I really DO NOT care what you think.
I choose to reply because that's what these forums are for, to help each other out, and clear up any confusion based on post like yours.

 

Here are pics of my V1 hardwired into my rear view mirror power wires. I used a mount I bought from Mike from the my350z.com forum. He makes them for G/Z cars and I think Vettes too.