What does it mean when I have the aforementioned problem in the title? (interior lights flicker when woofer hits)

My cousin told me I need a capacitor? Is this true? I didn't install the system myself so I'm not sure what is wrong.

Btw I have a JL Audio 500/1 Amp hooked up with a JL Audio 10"w6v2. I gave them a Dave Navone LOC to connect it to the amp in the trunk. This is kinda OT, but has anyone blown their setup with the same components as me? Bass at 5 and volume around 20-25?

Thanks!

-Mark

 

I got me an Optima Yellow Top and got rid of that problem :-)

 

I have an extra capacitor if you want to buy one. I'll bring it to the meet this Saturday if you can make it.

 

I have a capacitor on my car and the lights still flicker...but that's a 500/1 hooked up to 12w7.

I think you need one of those optima batteries.

 

I notice when I remove my key from the ignition my light flicker and everything inside the car is stock? Anyone else has this problem if so what did you do to resolve the problem. NIVEKG35-2003.

 

Capacitor if your running low power (wattage), separate battery if running high power (wattage).

 

Mikey, what would you recommend for running 2 amps a JL 450/4 and 500/1. The 500/1 will power 2 10w3v2's and the the 450 will power my new components, polk 6500 and polk 650.

Thanks.

 

I am no expert at all, but if you've got some extra cash to spend get the optima battery.

I'm just running half of what you are and my lights flicker with a capacitor...so with the extra component amp and speakers you've got...go with the optima. Also you live in a colder climate, NY, and I think cars are more prone to drained batteries because of the colder weather. I could be wrong, but thats my opinion.

 

Thanks for the info,

Anyone else want to chime in as well?

 

For a voltage flicker like that some people strap a capacitor on there.

The first thing I think of is the "big 3" upgrade on the battery-alternator wire, the battery ground wire, and the chassis to engine ground.

Read more about this at http://forum.sounddomain.com/forum/u...=5;t=007801;p=

Then the yellow top optima. Love them.

THEN worry about a cap. I kinda dislike caps, but I can tell you taht in a Honda I had where I rolled up the windows and they hit the top the headlights would dim, and with an Optima they stopped. (I did the wire upgrade later).

 

Ok, I'll try and get the yellow top optima, that sounds like the problem. It just replaces the regular car battery right?

 

NO, the car wiring is part of the problem, the battery is part of the problem, and then you MIGHT want a cap on top of that.

Guy with a lot of mods like you ought to be all excited over doing the Big 3 upgrade mod.

Yes, you should be able to get a Yellow top optima that replaces your OEM battery.

Do NOT get a Red Top.

 

Ok I'm confused again, I'm by no means an audiophile. So excuse me for my dumb questions. The battery-alternator wire is not the wire I use that connects my amp to the battery, correct?

Should I change/replace each of those wires 1 by 1 to see if the flickering stops?

If I just got the optima yellow top would I be fine?

-Mark

 

i have a 1F cap in mine and a 760W amp and my lights still flicker.

 

Replace the wire that runs from your battery to the alternator with larger gauge

Replace the wire from the battery to chassis with larger gauge

And I think you already have a grounding kit right?