This site is awesome. I live in a small town with no decent audio shops so this is my only place to ask stupid questions.

My xmas present to myself is going to be a kick *** audio setup. Here's what I have in mind.

4080 box
JL 10w7
DLS UP6 speakers all around
JL amp size?

My question is. What sub is the right one to go with here? Also, since I'm getting the JL sub...are DLS speakers still the right ones to go with?

 

That looks great. But a W7 wont fit in the 4080 box. You'll have to get a 10w6 and the 4080 box. A 500/1 would be perfect for an amp to go along with it if you are looking at all JL.

As for the UP6's, I'll let you know in about a week

 

Another uneducated question.

The 500/1 would be for the sub only...right. However, I think I would need to have another channel for the front components (DLS). So, is that a 500/2,3,4?

 

Geez...everyone jumped on the boat with those UP6's. There are other speakers out there too, folks! (Not saying they are bad) As for everything else, you need to do some more research. JL doesn't make a 500/234. That doesn't take a whole lot of research....go on their website!!!! Maybe a 300/4 or a 450/4...(and there are other amps out there too!!). I wouldn't put comps in the rear or run alot of power to the rear. JMO Focus on the front stage.

 

After reading a bit more it makes sense not to mess with the rear. I did read on here that taking the bose sub out makes a nice port.

A lot of people on here swear by DLS. I'm not stuck on them by any means...just looking for something that is considered very good. If you have a better recommendation then please do tell.

I've seen people on here adding or replacing OEM tweets. I'm hoping that a very good quality door speaker will cover that need. Am I wrong on that one?

I am kinda stuck on the JL 10w6. The JL components I have at home are pretty damn good. And they have received rave reviews on this site.

The amp...all I'm looking for is the right amp to push the sub and components. Preferrably one amp for both. I know JL makes a good one, but I'm not stuck on that one either.

Am I missing anything elese here? I do plan to keep the OEM HU and not sure if I need another gadget to make that work.

 

I agree, but then again look at all the people on the JL bandwagon...

I met up with Dave (heeb) the other day to discuss an install in his car. Within his budget the ups will work nicely. Otherwise my first intentions would have been Rainbow Profis or a set of Dynaudios. Both of these would have exceeded his budget so I suggested the UPs.

 

I know, it just seems like everytime I log onto this forum, there is a new thread about UP6's....how about someone getting the Iridiums?! :-) I just hope people who come on here don't limit themselves....they should try to hear as many comps as possible before making a choice. Not trying to flame.
As for the post, JL subs are great, so are their amps. It appears that you may want to do some more searching though....there is alot of info on this topic. If you want one amp, go with a 5 channel, otherwise, you will need two for your purposes. And if you only want a front stage, then buy a 2-channel and a mono for the sub. Any component set includes tweeters....you won't need to buy additional ones. You might need a LOC depending on your choice of amps.

 

Also not going to flame.. just injecting some thoughts...

The smiley leads me to believe you're joking, which is good , however for the sake of people searching, the Iridium tweeters do not fit in the stock location. You have to do heavy custom fabrication to get them to fit. Far beyond the scope of the avg./below-avg. car audio DIYer. I also prefer stock look.

I agree, however sometimes that is not an option. Unfortunately for jadaway2 said he lives in a small town with few/poor audio shops. Not everyone has a shop available to them that they can listen to quality brands. Even here in Raleigh, NC (for those of you unfamiliar, Raleigh, NC is fairly civilized in this here part of the south, ya'll), the lines that shops carry are **** poor. If I wanted Focal or Boston, I'm set. If I want Dynaudio, DLS, Rainbow, Morel, etc, I'm S.O.L. Sometimes you just have what other people think to go by. I went with the UP6 because I was tired of people pushing bright setups on me. I wanted a warm sound, that would fit in the stock location, was more $ than your average setup but would not break my bank. UP6 fit the bill perfectly.

And look how many people are on the Nissan bandwagon. There is a reason for success, and that is a valuable product. JL might not be =top-of-the-line, but it is by no means your low end. Just look at the G35 we all drive. It's no Bentley, but it's no Honda.

I don't understand why when something becomes popular, "audiophiles" turn their nose up at it as being "uncool." Get over it, you don't have to have exotic never-heard-of/never-used brand name/model equipment to have a good or even better-than-good system.

I would recommend any JL "slash" series (any model with a "/" in the name) amp for our cars. It simplifies the install a great deal (do a search for info on this).

I would recommend the DLS UP6 if you are looking for a component set that is easy to install (requires virtually no modification to the car, allowing you to keep the stock look, and even easily return to stock if you like/need), and prefer a warmer, more natural sound.

If you do decide to go the UP6 route, I'd recommend installing them 100% first, then deciding if you want a sub. I am amazed at the output the woofers give me.

 

I'd suggest going with 2 amps, a mono for your sub and a 2 channel for your component set. If you want JL amps, look at the 500/1 and 300/2. There are plenty of other good options out there for amps though.

 

Well, how did you know the UP6's were a "warm" sound if you never heard them? How did you know what other people were pushing on you were "bright" sounds if you had never heard them before? Interesting. This is a forum, and anything said on this forum is heresay unless proven with some stats or research. People coming to this forum, and never hearing these speakers are just going by what other people tell them. Based on that, I am only recommending that people check out all of their options before settling on one set of speakers. That's all that was intended by my post.

 

That one's easy. I knew Focals were bright because I heard them in person. I knew the Boston Acoustics were bright because I heard them in person. That's pretty much the main two lines people carry around here.

This one is harder to answer, but you nailed it so I don't have to. I "knew" by exactly how you stated: "never hearing these speakers are just going by what other people tell them."

Unfortunately, sometimes, such as jadaway2 and my case, what other people tell us is all we have to go by. That's why I bought my DLS UP6 from someone who obviously knew his stuff, so I valued his opinion. The best purchases I have ever made (both in and out of card audio) have been by recommendation, not by stats & research. Stats & research are VERY valuable, and I search them out all the time... unfortunately there is very little of both when it comes to audio and the way it "sounds." Real-life is really all you can judge/go by, and if your geographic area sucks for that, you have very few options. And the only reason I've posted any of this is because he specifically said he is in an area that does not have a lot of shops of any quality.

 

I coudn't get the Iridium tweeters into the OEM locations with dynamite and a mining helmet : )

Honestly, the two reasons that the UP6 are the best-selling component in our store are that the tweeter is MUCH smaller and will fit into more places, and the cone is poly instead of untreated paper.

Here in the rain forest, we put untreated paper in a door, it's not a recipe for longevity.

But they are a steal for door comps. Great value.

 

It's all my fault. I told el_duderino about this site. His shop is in my city. When I was looking for competent audio guys I found him. He clearly knows his stuff and sells DLS gear. After listening to several speaks including MBs and Focals I heard the UP6s in his TSX. They were indeed much more natural and warm to my ear. Additionally, given his years of experience and many many installs on high end cars, I'd be foolish not to listen to his opinion. He also took many actual measurements of what the amp and HU outputs were. Real data, not hearsay. That always impresses me. A G35 would be another feather in his cap so he came here to participate in the forum.

My system maintains the stock HU, has the UP6s up front, a DLS MW110 10" sub in a 4080 box and is powered by a DLS RA30 3-channel amp. Rear speakers are disconnected. Results are fantastic. So much more detail on my tunes. Bass SQ from the sub is outstanding (especially after break in). It is now musical instead of vaguely muddled thumping. Mid-bass from the UP6s can be leg hair moving at high volumes. The tweets aren't as bright as the other speakers I mentioned. This takes some getting used to if that's what you're expecting but warm and natural is how I would describe them. It's making me rethink what I should expect from the highs.

Anyway, I'm going in for some final tweaking this week. Right now the fader controls bass vs front stage output. I think a straight bass volume control might offer more flexibility particularly on older tunes where bass is lacking and you don't want to lose volume on the front stage by fading to the rear to increase perceived bass. Possibly this can be addressed by playing with the gains on the bass. Funny thing is I told el_duderino a couple months ago, watch, DLS UP6s will be all the rage in a few months. It's no different then when EVERYONE was putting in MB Quarts (and still do). If you don't have the option of listening yourself, you go with what has worked for others or take advice from experts.

 

The minute el_duderino says anything about trying some "special cool-aid", I'm out.

 

Now we just gotta get el_duderino to buy a G!