Do you think this is a good set-up?
Do you think this is a good set-up?
Hello,
I finally had a chance to go over some product details and pricing with one of the local shops. Here's what we came up with for my 05 non-bose coupe:
-Utilize OEM HU
-Zapco ref 200.2
-Zapco ref 500.1
-Boston SL60 in factory location
-JL 10W6V2 in 4080's box
I ended up with the Bostons because they sounded much more open than the JL components I initially thought about getting. The JL and Boston sets were the only ones they carry that the tweeter fit in the factory location. I really want to keep it stealth so the tweeters have to fit in the stock locations. The Bostons are bright so I will have them at -4db on the x-over's tweeter setting. The shop will utilize Zapco's Symbilink (Firewire) interconnection cabling since the amps do not accept standard plugs and they will also be insulating the doors with dynamat like sheets (forgot the name). There will also be a subwoofer output **** up front. I have to designate a spot to put it.The 500.1 will go in the trunk under 4080's box and the 200.2 under the passenger seat.
So for about $2300 with 4080's box, what do you think?
I finally had a chance to go over some product details and pricing with one of the local shops. Here's what we came up with for my 05 non-bose coupe:
-Utilize OEM HU
-Zapco ref 200.2
-Zapco ref 500.1
-Boston SL60 in factory location
-JL 10W6V2 in 4080's box
I ended up with the Bostons because they sounded much more open than the JL components I initially thought about getting. The JL and Boston sets were the only ones they carry that the tweeter fit in the factory location. I really want to keep it stealth so the tweeters have to fit in the stock locations. The Bostons are bright so I will have them at -4db on the x-over's tweeter setting. The shop will utilize Zapco's Symbilink (Firewire) interconnection cabling since the amps do not accept standard plugs and they will also be insulating the doors with dynamat like sheets (forgot the name). There will also be a subwoofer output **** up front. I have to designate a spot to put it.The 500.1 will go in the trunk under 4080's box and the 200.2 under the passenger seat.
So for about $2300 with 4080's box, what do you think?
I think that you've got great amps, but I personally feel that your front components are the most important part of the system from a sonic perspective. I'd even go to the 360.4 to have more budget available for the front speakers if budget is a limitation.
I've sold Bostons in the past and never thought they were all that in the higher performance ranges.
The two most widely recommended speaks on this board are the CDT and the DLS UP6. khsonic knows about the CDT (I don't, really), but the DLS UP6 outperform the Boston and fit in the OEM locations - and are NOT bright.
I hvae DLS UP6 components in my own car and recommend them highly. But I think that the CDT are also better than the Boston.
Other than that recommendation, I don't have any other comments, except to say that your install should include foam-tape-sealing spacer rings to seal the front of the spacer stack up against the back of the door panel for maximum midbass accuracy. There are threads on here talking about that...
I've sold Bostons in the past and never thought they were all that in the higher performance ranges.
The two most widely recommended speaks on this board are the CDT and the DLS UP6. khsonic knows about the CDT (I don't, really), but the DLS UP6 outperform the Boston and fit in the OEM locations - and are NOT bright.
I hvae DLS UP6 components in my own car and recommend them highly. But I think that the CDT are also better than the Boston.
Other than that recommendation, I don't have any other comments, except to say that your install should include foam-tape-sealing spacer rings to seal the front of the spacer stack up against the back of the door panel for maximum midbass accuracy. There are threads on here talking about that...
El_Duderino
Thanks for the advice.
So the DLS UP6 or CDT tweeters will fit in the stock tweeter location for sure? I ruled these speakers out specifically because I thought they wouldn't fit.
As for the midbass mounting, I believe that the installers will be fabricating a speaker mount/adaptor out of mdf instead of using the factory plastic piece. Should I tell them to use the stock plastic ones even if they have to cut it up? The doors will be sealed up pretty good with the deadening sheets so I didn't think that the "Baffle" effect would be missed.
And last question, I promise. No one here on my little island sells CDT or DLS speakers. Since the best components I have heard myself are ADS 346cs; how does the DLS and CDT sound compared to ADS? I might just mail order the UP6 without ever hearing them if they will fit in the factory locations....
Thanks again for all of your assistance!
So the DLS UP6 or CDT tweeters will fit in the stock tweeter location for sure? I ruled these speakers out specifically because I thought they wouldn't fit.
As for the midbass mounting, I believe that the installers will be fabricating a speaker mount/adaptor out of mdf instead of using the factory plastic piece. Should I tell them to use the stock plastic ones even if they have to cut it up? The doors will be sealed up pretty good with the deadening sheets so I didn't think that the "Baffle" effect would be missed.
And last question, I promise. No one here on my little island sells CDT or DLS speakers. Since the best components I have heard myself are ADS 346cs; how does the DLS and CDT sound compared to ADS? I might just mail order the UP6 without ever hearing them if they will fit in the factory locations....
Thanks again for all of your assistance!
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