JL 500.1 / 300.4 (car jerks upon shifting in AT)
#16
12-12-2005, 06:03 PM
Originally Posted by nyckid
ok, you said you got a 10 wire ground kit? how many amps are you running? just one or 2? and now that you have the grounding kit, you dont experience those jerkiness when the car shifts? if so i may go that route, how much does a groudning kit cost and how difficult is it to install one? please list your setup so i can compare it to mine... thanks
I'm running 1 jl 500/1, 10w6v2, stock HU and a carputer. Those all add up when you have the volume cranked and other stuff (pc, headlights..etc) running too. I also have a 1 farad cap that I have yet to install (just received)....I have some idle issues and the amp needs a bit more continous juice....I'll keep you updated if there is any differences with adding that too.
#17
12-12-2005, 06:15 PM
whole lot of misinformation here
First of all, do a search on 'capacitor' You'll get all the info you need. In short, don't waste your money. Caps have a very narrow purpose and it won't help in your case.
Grounding the amp directly to the battery is terrible advice unless your amp is within a few feet of it. The shorter the ground wire, the better.
The simple fact of the matter is that your stock alt is not capable of powering your amps at high SP levels AND the rest of your electrical systems at the same time. 50 capacitors probably wouldn't make a noticeable dent it your issue.
The solutions are:
1. don't play your music so loud (I know, not much of an option.)
2. get your stock alt rewound. Don't know anyone who can do this right now.
3. get a deep cycle battery dedicated to your system. Depending on how loud you play it but if your system is on full blast all time (so your alt can't keep up and eventually recharge it) you'll probably have to recharge it periodically with an external charger.
Grounding the amp directly to the battery is terrible advice unless your amp is within a few feet of it. The shorter the ground wire, the better.
The simple fact of the matter is that your stock alt is not capable of powering your amps at high SP levels AND the rest of your electrical systems at the same time. 50 capacitors probably wouldn't make a noticeable dent it your issue.
The solutions are:
1. don't play your music so loud (I know, not much of an option.)
2. get your stock alt rewound. Don't know anyone who can do this right now.
3. get a deep cycle battery dedicated to your system. Depending on how loud you play it but if your system is on full blast all time (so your alt can't keep up and eventually recharge it) you'll probably have to recharge it periodically with an external charger.
#18
12-12-2005, 08:47 PM
ok, would it be possible to do this then: Buy a 2nd battery, place it in the trunk where my amps are both located, and ground them directly to the 2nd battery? and keep the power to my amps connected to my main battery under the hood, would this work. and if so, what kind of battery specifically do i get, like brand, model, etc...
I would like to be able to play my music loud while driving, not while idling... those jerky shifts really get annoying, and it sucks that i have to turn the music down while i drive...
i appreciate all the input though...
I would like to be able to play my music loud while driving, not while idling... those jerky shifts really get annoying, and it sucks that i have to turn the music down while i drive...
i appreciate all the input though...
#19
12-13-2005, 01:13 AM
Originally Posted by nyckid
ok, would it be possible to do this then: Buy a 2nd battery, place it in the trunk where my amps are both located, and ground them directly to the 2nd battery? and keep the power to my amps connected to my main battery under the hood, would this work. and if so, what kind of battery specifically do i get, like brand, model, etc...
I would like to be able to play my music loud while driving, not while idling... those jerky shifts really get annoying, and it sucks that i have to turn the music down while i drive...
i appreciate all the input though...
I would like to be able to play my music loud while driving, not while idling... those jerky shifts really get annoying, and it sucks that i have to turn the music down while i drive...
i appreciate all the input though...
I don't see why you couldn't hook up an auxillary battery....a lot of SUV set-ups with ridiculous amounts of amp/subs have extra batteries hooked up.
I believe the best battery for this purpose is the Optima yellow top, I think that's what it's called.
#20
12-13-2005, 02:22 AM
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Originally Posted by al503
First of all, do a search on 'capacitor' You'll get all the info you need. In short, don't waste your money. Caps have a very narrow purpose and it won't help in your case.
Grounding the amp directly to the battery is terrible advice unless your amp is within a few feet of it. The shorter the ground wire, the better.
The simple fact of the matter is that your stock alt is not capable of powering your amps at high SP levels AND the rest of your electrical systems at the same time. 50 capacitors probably wouldn't make a noticeable dent it your issue.
The solutions are:
1. don't play your music so loud (I know, not much of an option.)
2. get your stock alt rewound. Don't know anyone who can do this right now.
3. get a deep cycle battery dedicated to your system. Depending on how loud you play it but if your system is on full blast all time (so your alt can't keep up and eventually recharge it) you'll probably have to recharge it periodically with an external charger.
Grounding the amp directly to the battery is terrible advice unless your amp is within a few feet of it. The shorter the ground wire, the better.
The simple fact of the matter is that your stock alt is not capable of powering your amps at high SP levels AND the rest of your electrical systems at the same time. 50 capacitors probably wouldn't make a noticeable dent it your issue.
The solutions are:
1. don't play your music so loud (I know, not much of an option.)
2. get your stock alt rewound. Don't know anyone who can do this right now.
3. get a deep cycle battery dedicated to your system. Depending on how loud you play it but if your system is on full blast all time (so your alt can't keep up and eventually recharge it) you'll probably have to recharge it periodically with an external charger.
He's right and Wrong.
First, get the cap. It will do you plenty good. Don't go overboard and get a 10 farad cap, just a 1 farad will do just fine. For your issues and others, a one farad cap is perfect. What it does is supply just the right amount of current when the amp requires additional current. He is right, it only helps if you play your music loud for short periods of time. It isn't a replacement for a weak alternator. Remember, there is a reason why your amp has caps (open them up and you'll see banks of caps in there). Adding a small cap is a good idea. Second, connect to the battery directly for your ground. This will reduce noise and other stuff (i.e. alternator hum). No, you don't need to be close to the battery to ground it directly to there. Remember also, most of your car components are connect to your chasis so now you have a gound "loop" which you don't want. Trust me on this one.
I do agree that getting a second battery will be your best bet if all else fails. I also agree that you should get a better alt but that isn't really an option (do a search, I believe someone tried).
So, there you have it. Personally, do the less expensive (and less time consuming) route first (gound to the battery and caps). If you can, borrow a cap and see if it makes a difference. The other two options from the above poster is expensive so chose wisely
Last edited by mephistomyhero; 12-13-2005 at 02:24 AM.
#21
12-13-2005, 03:44 AM
getting a 2nd battery in the trunk would be an expensive option? i wouldnt think a battery would cost that much?
im not sure of how to ground my amps directly to the battery under the hood, my amps are both located in the trunk... i really dont want to take my car apart just to ground em all the way to the hood... that will take a lot of work. I plan on getting a 2nd battery and just placing it in the trunk along with my amps for easy connections, but would i bypass the main battery under my hood and hook up my amps directly to the new battery in my trunk or how does that work?
im not sure of how to ground my amps directly to the battery under the hood, my amps are both located in the trunk... i really dont want to take my car apart just to ground em all the way to the hood... that will take a lot of work. I plan on getting a 2nd battery and just placing it in the trunk along with my amps for easy connections, but would i bypass the main battery under my hood and hook up my amps directly to the new battery in my trunk or how does that work?
#24
12-13-2005, 07:15 PM
Originally Posted by mephistomyhero
He's right and Wrong.
First, get the cap. It will do you plenty good. Don't go overboard and get a 10 farad cap, just a 1 farad will do just fine. For your issues and others, a one farad cap is perfect. What it does is supply just the right amount of current when the amp requires additional current. He is right, it only helps if you play your music loud for short periods of time. It isn't a replacement for a weak alternator. Remember, there is a reason why your amp has caps (open them up and you'll see banks of caps in there). Adding a small cap is a good idea. Second, connect to the battery directly for your ground. This will reduce noise and other stuff (i.e. alternator hum). No, you don't need to be close to the battery to ground it directly to there. Remember also, most of your car components are connect to your chasis so now you have a gound "loop" which you don't want. Trust me on this one.
First, get the cap. It will do you plenty good. Don't go overboard and get a 10 farad cap, just a 1 farad will do just fine. For your issues and others, a one farad cap is perfect. What it does is supply just the right amount of current when the amp requires additional current. He is right, it only helps if you play your music loud for short periods of time. It isn't a replacement for a weak alternator. Remember, there is a reason why your amp has caps (open them up and you'll see banks of caps in there). Adding a small cap is a good idea. Second, connect to the battery directly for your ground. This will reduce noise and other stuff (i.e. alternator hum). No, you don't need to be close to the battery to ground it directly to there. Remember also, most of your car components are connect to your chasis so now you have a gound "loop" which you don't want. Trust me on this one.
Wrong about the caps. Sorry to be so blunt but you have no idea what a capacitor does and how they actually work. If you don't believe me about them, go directly to sounddomain.com or any other audio forum and do search on caps. Those guys know what's going on in the car audio realm. You might do a search on 'Caps are Crap.'
Wrong again about the ground wire going directly to the battery. You don't want the ground wire to be any longer than about 18". Don't believe me? Go to the audio forum or better yet, call the best installers in your area.
Ground loop? Dude, WTF are you talking about?
I can't believe the level of bad info on this forum. Incredible.
Moog's right. This is funny. Funny until someone gets a nasty surprise from taking bad advice.
#25
12-13-2005, 07:29 PM
#26
12-13-2005, 07:44 PM
Originally Posted by nyckid
hrmm, can someone please give me the right info, i'm not sure what route to go now...
al503, i was planning on buying a 2nd battery and placing it in the trunk alongside with my amps, would you recommend this setup, if so, how would i connect my amps using a 2nd battery?
al503, i was planning on buying a 2nd battery and placing it in the trunk alongside with my amps, would you recommend this setup, if so, how would i connect my amps using a 2nd battery?
#30
12-13-2005, 09:27 PM