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What goes where with this setup: JL Audio 500/5, DLS UP6, 4080 box

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Old Feb 22, 2006 | 03:15 PM
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What goes where with this setup: JL Audio 500/5, DLS UP6, 4080 box

I am looking at an upgrade that retains the stock Bose HU.

I want to mount the new amp in the stock location and replace the existing speakers in the existing holes.

I don't think I need to replace them all but I am not sure.

1. Does the JL audio 500/5 fit in the stock amp location?

a. If not can you recommend some amps that do?

2. Which speakers do the DLS UP6 replace, 2 Fronts on the door, 2?

3. Why not replace all of the speakers?
 
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Old Feb 22, 2006 | 06:05 PM
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500/5 does not fit in the stock location without cutting some of the black plastic support (see attached pictures).

DLS UP6 replace the door woofer (near your foot) and door tweeter in the sail panel (near side mirrors).

You don't replace all the speakers becaue for proper sound staging all you really need is a really good set of from components (DLS UP6 fit this qualification IMO).

If you are getting the 500/5, I recommend replacing the rear side speakers (not the rear deck speakers) with some nice coaxials and not having them turned up very loud - so the rear passengers (if you ever have any) can have a little extra but you as the driver will not hear them and it will not affect your sound stage. Only reason why I recommend replacing the rear two side speakers if you are getting the 500/5 is that you'll be wasting two channels (the rear ones).

with a little loving and some creativity, any JL slash amp will most likely fit in the stock amp location if you remove the stock amp support bracket.
 
Attached Thumbnails What goes where with this setup: JL Audio 500/5, DLS UP6, 4080 box-dscn1118.jpg   What goes where with this setup: JL Audio 500/5, DLS UP6, 4080 box-dscn1121.jpg   What goes where with this setup: JL Audio 500/5, DLS UP6, 4080 box-dscn1120.jpg   What goes where with this setup: JL Audio 500/5, DLS UP6, 4080 box-dscn1122.jpg   What goes where with this setup: JL Audio 500/5, DLS UP6, 4080 box-dscn1124.jpg  

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Old Feb 22, 2006 | 06:05 PM
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...
 
Attached Thumbnails What goes where with this setup: JL Audio 500/5, DLS UP6, 4080 box-dscn1125.jpg  
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Old Feb 22, 2006 | 07:23 PM
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On replacing all the speakers:

Go read "stereo playback" in the Wikipedia.

Google "front stage".

From another post of mine elsewhere:
This I Beleive.

Since we're talking about "stereo", what is the purpose of rear speakers? What value do they add?

(I also add that since this is not an IASCA competitor's forum, my comments are aimed at the general population, not at only those who want to compete in IASCA - in case someone brings that up.)

Historically, rear speakers have allowed low and mid-fi autosound systems to play louder and to play more bass. Rear decks often had larger speakers (6x9, 6" round, or even 5" round) while the front speakers were 3.5, 4" round, 4x6 round, or 5" round, and often had lousy provisions - it was VERY hard to get those speakers to play low notes with any authority no matter what you put in there, due to physical constraints.

When we started putting in subwoofers in the trunk, we often relied on these larger rear speakers to fill in the midbass hole. We'd play them and maybe cut them off at 75 or 50, and we'd have a good flat frequency response.

Then in the early 90's, we realized that 300 Hz was not the threshold of directionality that we had all been told in RTTI, and that shoving that midbass as far forward as possible would be sonically superior to leaving the snare drums and bass guitar in the back seat. (Remember the cars with subs in the floor that started competing around this period).

Also, in the mid-to-late 90's, amplifier pricing started to erode - amps became pretty good deals. So if you wanted to play it loud, you didn't neccesarily need more speakers - if you got higher power-handling speakers, you could get a bigger amp. Instead of 25W x 4, you could run 100w x 2 for a similar output level (close enough in dB).

Fast forward to 2006.

Most newer cars have good front speaker provisions, in both size and mounting method (good midbass potential).

Amps are cheap.

We don't need the volume, we don't need the midbass, and if we want a good stereo image, we don't need the muddling.

As far as reverb goes, we'll get some anyway, don't need more.

If I'm advising anyone on how to get the best sounding audio system possible, what should I recommend - the best front components they can afford, no rears, and a sub - and just enough amp channels to run that? Or shall I take that exact budget and split it up, forcing another pair of amp channels in, perhaps, and getting far lower quality front components?

But most of us have grown up with Dad's car having speakers behind our heads. We're used to rear speakers. That's our reference in a car. We don't have a reason, really - we're just used to it.

Meanwhile, since almost no one has as a reference a good two-channel audio home stereo system any more, we don't have any example of how good 2 speakers can sound (usually, our references have become iPod headphones and crappy PC speakers). (Note to reader - if you haven't heard a really good 2-speaker home stereo system, go to a high-end audiophile dealer and listen to Audio Research, Krell, Thiel, Dynaudio, Magnepan, Mark Levinson (NOT in a Lexus), B&W, or Anthem, to name a few.)

Remember, Quadraphonic failed miserably as a technology, and 5.1 musical recordings are not what we're talking about. "Surround Sound" is mainly for movies, so far, and faking surround sound because it feels good and is pleasureable is fine - but that's all it is, doing what you prefer instead of doing what's accurate.

It's more work to sell a customer on rear speakers actually detracting from sound quality, and sometimes succeeding, than it is to typically sell them rear speakers because they think they want rear speakers, and never present them with a real alternative.

I continue to recommend getting the best front comps you can afford, at the exclusion of any budget on rear comps or rear amp channels. If you want SQ, that's a better path to get it than more speakers, that are more mediocre...

...if you go to a high end audiophile store and say, "Look, I'm on a budget, what would you sell me?" and they sell you NAD and Parasound instead of Krell and Wilson, do they tell you to stack a second set of speakers in the back of the room paralleled with the first?

Getting less-than-insanely-expensive gear doesn't change how stereo works.
 
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Old Feb 22, 2006 | 08:29 PM
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Originally Posted by amthar
...
What is that thing? Looks like a filter of some sort.
 
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Old Feb 22, 2006 | 08:38 PM
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Oh. And with the amp installed there, will the 4080 box still fit or does it intrude into that space?
 
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Old Feb 23, 2006 | 12:13 AM
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dunno... car came that way. I believe it's just venting into the rear fender area.

yes the 4080 box still fits. I had to remove some of the stupid plastic "fins" on the underside of the support so that the amp would fit flush against the plastic support flooring, but it all fits snug as a bug in a rug.
 
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Old Feb 23, 2006 | 08:52 AM
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Hillbilly:
I'm planning on going 450/4 and 500/1 for my setup (w/ dls up6) and i'm going to try to wire the stock rear 4 speakers in series (no one sits back there anyway). you might want to try that...although with only 25watts with the 500/5 i dont know if its worth it. For real fills I think the bose speakers are good enough...imo

Amthar:
mounting the 500/5 where the old bose amp was...does the amp have enough room for heat dissapation? I couldn't tell with the pics. I'm thinking about mounting my 450/4 on that side and the 500/1 on the other side.
 
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Old Feb 23, 2006 | 09:35 AM
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Thanks a lot for the great replys. Those are some of the most informative reply(s) I have had on any Forum.

el_duderino: I wish I was in your neck of the weeds so you could do my install!

Amthar: I read your sticky and figured who best to copy but the sticky author, hence my selection of components!

Originally Posted by el_duderino
But most of us have grown up with Dad's car having speakers behind our heads. We're used to rear speakers. That's our reference in a car. We don't have a reason, really - we're just used to it.
So if I understand what you are saying: the 8 speakers that are used are really a carry over from the days of cardboard woofers and adding more features to a list.

- A true stereo sound stage doesn't require rear "fill" because the band or musicians are in front of you and that is what they intend us to hear.

- if you use good components up front the rears are "good enough" to satisfy what I am used to, i.e. rear "fill" from those extra speakers. They still work and make noise but it isn't adding to the Stereo experience.

A couple of questions:

In the coupe in the back near the floor there are some openings in the door. I am not sure what size they are but couldn't those be replaced with some subs and be used instead of a sub box?

If I wanted to replace the rear deck 6x9's: because that is what I am used to and I will be sure that doesn't affect my choice of high quality front components how would you suggest setting that up. Using another amp, the remaining channels?

My goal is to substantially improve on the sound quality of the entire range of the system for the driver. I don't need super loud, or lots of heavy bass.

I was initially planning on doing the Double Din conversion until I read Amthars sticky. Now I think I can save a ton of cash and have a much cleaner system, that sounds nearly as good.
 
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Old Feb 23, 2006 | 10:17 AM
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Originally Posted by HillBilly
In the coupe in the back near the floor there are some openings in the door. I am not sure what size they are but couldn't those be replaced with some subs and be used instead of a sub box?
I'm not sure what "openings" you are referring to

Originally Posted by HillBilly
If I wanted to replace the rear deck 6x9's: because that is what I am used to and I will be sure that doesn't affect my choice of high quality front components how would you suggest setting that up. Using another amp, the remaining channels?
It depends on your choice of amps. If you get the 500/5, run the deck speakers off of the rear channels. If you decide for two amps: a 4 channel and a sub amp, then run the rears off of the rear channels of the 4 channel amp.

Originally Posted by HillBilly
I was initially planning on doing the Double Din conversion until I read Amthars sticky. Now I think I can save a ton of cash and have a much cleaner system, that sounds nearly as good.
If by cleaner you mean "stock looking" or "sleeper" then I would agree. But I've seen some dam* clean double din installs. But yes, a lot more money and a lot more work. To each his own.
 
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Old Feb 23, 2006 | 10:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Virge
Amthar:
mounting the 500/5 where the old bose amp was...does the amp have enough room for heat dissapation? I couldn't tell with the pics. I'm thinking about mounting my 450/4 on that side and the 500/1 on the other side.
My assumption is yes. The slash series amps tend to run rather cool. I picked up one of those RF Indoor/Outdoor thermometers and through it back there with the amp. Never got very hot. The amp has a warranty on it though, so I figure if it dies from heat this summer I'll get a replacement and work on plan B
 
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Old Feb 24, 2006 | 11:41 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by amthar
I'm not sure what "openings" you are referring to
I am refering to the ones in the Back arm rest just behind the Door opening, not on the door. It looks like a small square setup. Can any speakers fit in these holes and be run as subs? I understand it wouldn't sound like a good sub box but could it be done?
 
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Old Feb 24, 2006 | 11:49 AM
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Originally Posted by HillBilly
I am refering to the ones in the Back arm rest just behind the Door opening, not on the door. It looks like a small square setup. Can any speakers fit in these holes and be run as subs? I understand it wouldn't sound like a good sub box but could it be done?
ANYTHING can be done (I hated when my teachers would say that in school).

Ok so you don't really "run a speaker as a sub." A subwoofer is just a big speaker that is capable of replicating lower frequency sound waves. The paper speakers that come stock in our cars can't replicate these frequencies- just not physically possible. If you buy some really nice coaxial speakers, they still will be unable to similarly reproduce the frequencies a subwoofer can... it's just not what they are designed to do.

Now you CAN get some bass out of some well designed woofers. The woofers I have in my car (DLS UP6 woofers) produce enough bass that I don't really need a subwoofer, although I have one just to fill in the bottom end frequencies.

I THINK I remember someone saying on here that they were able to fit 6.5" woofers into the rear side panels. I'm not sure, however. You would pretty much be blazing a trail none of us have really pursued...

I doubt subs would work in those locations without doing a huge build-out. You'd probably have to go with 8" subs and you would have to make some custom moulded fiberglass sealed enclosures for them. Hella lot of work.
 
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