So, I ended up taking the drivers door off to run speaker wire to it. I had to enlarge the hole that the plug in between the door and the body goes through, and run wire through there. Glued it all back up, sealed it, etc...

And now, I put my door back on and the windows wqon't roll up!

So, the problem has the following symptoms:

sometimes, after unplugging and plugging the body to door plug back in, the door look control on the door will work. Sometimes, it won't.

However, the windows don't work at all. Not even the passenger side window, using the control on the passenger door. So, I think it must not be the connection, but something else. I've checked the fuses, and they look like they are good. Not sure what else to check.

Any ideas?

Dave

 

Are you sure the window lock switch isn't depressed?

 

Heh, yep, I made sure of that. Thanks, though. Somtimes, it's the simplest things...


Dave

 

The only other thing I can think of is to check the wire harness that plugs into the switch module on the door panel to make sure it's plugged in firmly.

 

make sure that all of your pins are lined up correctly in the molex connector and that none are bent or broken. then check and make sure you didnt accidentally nick a wire when drilling. only other thing i can think of is that the connector is unplugged in the door.

 

If that were the case, how would that cause the controls on the passenger side to not work either? (which I haven't touch yet)

Dave

 

Central control is in the drivers door. If its not connected or working, neither will any others.

 

That makes sense, then.

Anyways, yes, two pins were broken off. So, I had to break out the soldering iron, and do some repairs, and all. Got it back together, attached, it worked, attached the door, and now everything is good.

Laying speaker wire to the doors is a pain in the ***!

Dave

 

Glad it worked out for ya.

Although I didnt have too much trouble running my wires. I didnt feel the need to remove the door either.

 

How'd you get the wires through the to the door? The only opening I saw is where that plug is...

Dave

 

Theres another hole with a grommet behind the door hinge and about 2" below the factory harness. I ran through there. Im not saying by any means that it was an easy task, but I wasnt about to remove my door either.

 

Doesn't the Bose system in these cars have the amplifier in each door for each speakers?? I've done many Nissan Bose installs, and have never once had to do a full rewire like that. All wires you need are at the Bose connector. Just curious.

 

No that would be 3rd and 4th gen Maximas, and a few others of the likes. Nissan hasnt done that for some time now.

If your doing aftermarket amp and speakers its typically common practice to run new wiring.

 

You don't *have* to run new wire. However, if you are running much higher power than stock, it is recommended.

Also, since I am bi-amping my fronts, it's required to run new wire. Bi-amping is using a four channel amp (in this case, the JL 450/4) to power a single set of components (2 woofers and 2 tweeters) It generally can improve the osund quality quite a bit (or so I'm told..).

So, new speaker wire.

By the way, taking the door off wasn't that difficult, I'm a relatively big guy, and I can hold the door up myself. 4 bolts, and it is off...

Dave

 

I wasnt worried about taking it off, just didnt want to take the time.

I ran 10awg and 14awg with no problems. In fact theres an additonal pair of 18awg wires for my alarm.