Yeah I'm getting prepped for my 3rd remote starter install and done several car alarms. I've read to go thru the molex connector for the door. So I think I'm okay with that.

About the 2nd stater wires. Why 2? I've read two answers on this:
1) cold/warm indication
2) ecu for possible antigrind

I need to check the service manual for the real answer. Does anyone know. Does this car require antigrind relay or is this build in?

Thanks

 

The 2nd starter wire is needed, but in the service manual it shows it only goes to the daylight running lights. However, if you don't hook it up you may experiance problems remote starting in cold weather. There is an entire thread on the 2nd starter wire on the12volt.com and no one cand provide hard evidence of what it does and why it is needed.

You should always hook up the anti grind output if it is availible. This will protect the starter and flywheel when someone accidently cranks it when trying to turn the key to the 'on' position. The anti grind relay is typically built in to the starter kill relay.

Be careful going through the molex, many people have skinned wire or bent pins, and a few people have damaged their BCMs from having water drip back through the connector.

 

The Viper 791 is a great unit! I have that unit and yes i installed it myself. It took me about 3 hours....I had to run the door lock wire to the door switch (which was a pain) I also have about 4 mini pizo sirens in my vents (its a small siren for the interior...its really lound) I also installed a prox proximity sensor. And bypassed the clutch since my car is a stick! And yes you are going 2 need a 556u with a spair key...they might make a module that u dont need a key but i was to lazy to find it and get it. All and all it was pretty easy...granted I am a Best Buy car audio installer...hahahaha would have

 

lol x2

 

Figured I'd follow up. Pain in the ***. We'll antigrind is not stock on a G35. I need to wire both wires to an "anti-grind" relay.

Didn't need to go thru the molex on the door side. There is a hack wherer you can get to it at the BCM. Lifesaver. http://www.audiogroupforum.com/csfor...ghlight=nissan

Need to diode isolate the hood pin wire found in the EPD (? the thing near the battery). It's shared w/ the Ecu or something and not a clean signal to just splice into. Without the diode isolation the car started then died immediately. 2 diodes, between where I T'd into the hood wire and the RS and the other between the T and the ECU. Stripe towards the pin switch.

Man you guys are fast. I'm embarrased to say but it took me about aprox 24hrs over a couple days. Soldered + heatshrinked + tie wrapped, but thats still no excuse. Things like the double pulse to unlock, figuring which tach wire at the ecu, and the diode isolation added many hours.

 

sorry to bump up an old thread. but im about to do this to my 6mt coupe (viper 5900 sst). is there anything that i need to know? hints and tips will be appreciated. please if you dont have anything nice to say then DONT. ive installed it on my friends civic and it seemed very straight forward if you know where the wires are.
thanks,
johnny

 

These arn't Honda Civics....

haha.

These cars for the most part are pretty straight forward. The door locks can be a pain, but if you take your time its not too bad. Make sure you hook the P/NP switch up to the Vipers NSS input so the car won't start in gear.

 

The other last tip I can give is on the DEI remote starter (forget the model #, the one w/ 2 remotes) there are two wires that were the same color!

Took additional 1hr to figure that one out.....

Good luck.

 

thanks for the input guys. i got a few diagrams from 12volt already. the alarm should be arriving soon along with the XK07 from dei. im scared tho, why does everyone bring up the door looks? lol

 

To get to the door locks you have to run wires in to the drivers door. However, there is no direct path inside the door. You have to unplug the hanress that goes in the door and drill out the unused pins. If you arn't careful you can knick the wires in the harness and really mess things up. There have been several threads on G35driver where things didn't go well when trying to get wires in to the doors. You can 5 wire the door lock actuators inside the car, but the factory alarm disarm wire is in the doors, so you have to run at least one wire in there anyway. The cool thing is though, once you get the wires in there you can do remote window up and down with extended (-) pulses on the lock and unlock wires.

Once you are done with the wiring make sure you SEAL up the hole you made, otherwise water will get through and the BCM sits right below where the wiring comes in to the car. There have been a thread or two on here where the BCM has been damaged by water dripping on it.

 

Thanks Kevin!! you dont know how much help you've been. usually i just read what others have posted because they usually ask similiar q's.

 

does anyone know where i can get a detailed wiring diagram for the install? I wanna be able to double check what i am doing.
thanks again.