Hi Everyone... I know that there are a million questions on this subject, and I have read every one of them, but I am still confused... So please help me out

I have a 2003.5 G35 Coupe, and I am looking to run 2 JL 10w6v2 with a JL 1000/1... I am going to flush mount the amp in the floor, along with a power cap. But thats besides the fact.

I need to know the best way to hook it up to my stock HU... My 1st thought was using the HI/Low Convertor which I still will probly do.. If I do that what wires do I have to use? Rear Speakers? What color wires in the harness exactly and where do they go to...Also I can use the remote wire off the stock amp too, right?

Alot of people seem to like the idea of cutting rca's but that seems kind of weird.

This isnt like my old car, it was an integra. You could change the deck in a matter of minutes.. Any help would be great, thanks....

 

look like's it's your first ever post
keep searching and reading this forum, u'll find the answer

 

yeah... read the sticky at the top of this forum. Good luck with your searching.

 

I would tap into the HU wires before they enter the Bose amp to avoid the Bose EQ circuit which progressively cuts bass when the volume reaches a certain point.

 

it does a lot more than that... but yeah... what he said. + sticky + seach

 

My current setup is this way with the stock HU. Get rid of the Blose amp and get a second amp for your comps and rears (I disconnected my rears). Since you will have subs, the 6x9 deck speakers are extraneous and I would advise that you remove them and just leave the grills on. This will give you venting holes for your subs from the trunk. As for the subs, why go with two 10W6s? Unless you already have them, it would be better to either go with a single 10W7 or 12W7 since it seems you will be removing the spare tire and utilizing the entire trunk anyhow. Two 10W6 is more $$$ than a single 10W7 BTW. Another good idea if you want to save the trunk is to use 4080's removable sub boxes which work with the 10W6s and you can mount both of them since he recently released a passenger side box to go with his original driver's side box. Unfortunately, you will have to cut and paste your RCAs from the amps to the output of the stock HU unless you want to utilize a LOC, but JL amps have circuitry to take care of this without the LOC. There is also debate concerning the usefulness of powercaps. Some see it as a bandaid and some see it as useless eye candy. A more powerful alternator is the "real" solution, but it does cost more $$$ and robs more power from the engine. You will get some general advice here, but it seems like the answers you seek will have to come from a qualified MECP installer. Good Luck.

 

We have some MECP installers on this forum if I'm not mistaken. I believe Elduderino is one of them.

 

I think all of his questions are answered in the sticky... still

 

Like I already mention, I read EVERY post on at least the first 10 pages realating to my question, as well as the sticky.There is a lot of helpful information, and it does awnser my questions. But I need specific directions becuase I am still confused.
Splice into this wire (Color) and this wire (Color) using what (HI/LOW Convertor, RCA's) and done...

 

Mmm interesting! Didn't think about removing my 6/9's.

 

This is information that I have collected from various posts which was helpful to me and may answer your questions. Thanks to the original posters of this information.

BOSE WIRING COLORS AND SPEAKER SIZES

Factory speaker harness wiring colors

Front Right + Gray/Silver
Front Right - Yellow/Silver

Front Left + Green/Silver
Front Left - Red/Silver

Rear Door Right + Brown/Silver
Rear Door Right - Black/Silver

Rear Door Left + Green/Yellow
Rear Door Left - Black/Yellow

Rear Deck Right + Blue/Red
Rear Deck Right - Blue/White

Rear Deck Left + Blue/Yellow
Rear Deck Left - White/Green



Head unit output colors

The (+) are all on the same side of the connector.

Head Output Front Right + Orange/Blue
Head Output Front Right - White/Blue

Head Output Front Left + White
Head Output Front Left - Orange

Head Output Rear Right + Blue
Head Output Rear Right - Pink

Head Output Rear Left + Teal
Head Output Rear Left - Purple


Remote Wire Light Blue/ Silver



BOSE SPEAKER SIZES

The tweeters are exactly 5/8" deep and about 1-5/8" in diameter (at the largest point).

You don't have to take the whole door off to get to them to look (you would to disconnect the wires). Just pop off the clips that hold the black plastic panel down.

I also know that Infinity Kappa Perfect 6.1 tweeters fit, as do the tweeters from the MB Quart PCE 216 set.

With the lower door speakers, the stock measurements are: 6-3/8" in dia. with 2.5" of depth.

I think just about any 6.5" speaker will fit, but holes will have to be drilled (Roll up the window first) for any.

The rear side speakers are EXACTLY the same as the lower door speakers. Same part number and everything. Strangely there is no tweeter (or even a cone) on any speaker in the back. See my other thread about possible mounting depths. I made a spacer but there were other great ideas on how to mount better speakers back there.

The 6" X 9" speakers in the rear deck are: 6.5" X 9-3/16" and 3-3/8" deep. Again, I think any 6X9 will fit here.

These are all standard six openings and any install shop can easily do this. If you are doing it yourself, I recommend buying a new 3/16" or 1/8" titanium (for metal drilling, I used Bosch brand from Home Depot, a couple bucks) drill bit. Just drills alot easier through metal in the doors.

As for the screw hole dimensions... just drill. Infiniti uses a weird 3 hole set up for their 6.5" mid ranges that you won't ever match up exactly.

The tweeter will be held down by the stock metal bracket. If your new tweeters are a little loose in the bracket, wrap them in weather stripping or something similar.

The 6" X 9" speakers are standard mounts in the four "corners" of the speaker.

 

BTW, the rear door speakers of the sedan are smaller than the 6 1/2's in the front door. They look more like 5 1/4.

 

Yes, we know, everyone says they are still confused. And then we give them more information like we are giving you. All the information is here, even directions. If you are still confused after reading through all the information on this forum, you do not need to be doing the install- you need to take it to a professional. We aren't here to spoon feed people 1.) 2.) 3.) 4.) install directions of an OEM integrated sound system install. Plus the simply fact that you joined YESTERDAY and have read through the first 10 pages shows you have not spent nearly enough time on the boards before giving up and asking others to do your leg work for you. I'm all about helping people on here, but not when they don't help themselves first (and then get snippy with people who suggest doing a little more research before asking questions).

 

I weep for the future.

Head Waiter, Ferris Bueller's Day Off

 

Actually I have been reading these boards for at least the last week. I tried signing up using my AOL e-mail address, but I was not recieving the conformation email to confirm my account. So I could not post. So I had to use my school email address, which I finnally did yesterday. So stop jumping to conclusions.

I have hooked up many systems in my past cars, as well as friends cars. All worked great. This is going to be my second install using the stock HU. The 1st was my friends winter beater which was a Chevy Venture. Which was very easy to do, but there was no stock amp and i didnt no if it made a difference... If it wasnt so expensive for the double din conversion, I would have done that, along with a avic d2, but I cant afford it right now, becuase I just bought the subs amp suspension carbon fiber hood carbon fiber lip stillen rear roof wing, and payed cash for the car... So between that and school im pretty broke. If I had an aftermarket HU it would be so much easier....

The box I bought will not fit w7's, so I just went with the w6's. I got an awsome deal on them so I dont really care. As far as the power cap, I just dont want my lights to dim. What ever problems I run into I will get fixed down the road. Taking the back speakers out is a good idea. I will leave them in and if I think i need to take them out I will. I will be hooking up a bass control **** so I will be able to control the bass from the front. How does the system sound in your car, did you use dynomat? Thanks