Brake Ducts
Im planning to do this lol
+
Heat resistant duct
and making some sort of attachment or just having the hose guide air to the brakes without any sort of cf duct like the one from nissan motorsports.
+
Heat resistant duct
and making some sort of attachment or just having the hose guide air to the brakes without any sort of cf duct like the one from nissan motorsports.
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Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 1,010
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From: Cleburne, TX
The final parts are being put togeather now. I gave the shop enough materials to make me 2 sets. I've got some cutting of plastic to do but this will be essentially what it looks like inside the wheel well. I have an idea of how to get the air from the bumper just haven't started cutting anything yet.
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Joined: Sep 2003
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After my 5/19 post describing my "Low Bucks Brake Ducts for the G"
(see page 2 of this thread) I received several requests to re-post after the season and report how well the ducts had worked.
Here's the front set-up:
Wheels/Tires: 9.5x18 Enkei RPF1s / 265x35ZR18 Toyo Proxis R888s
Brakes/Pads: AP Racing six piston BBK / Ferodo Pads
Ducts: Stillen front splitter with "dummy" blocked ducts opened to 2"x7" for 14 square inch openings leading to a 4"x6" (24sq.in.) floor heating register (Home Depot) set into the front wall of the wheel well. The vanes have been adjusted to diffuse the air flow through the whole wheel well.
Results: Caliper Temps went from 400-500 down to 375 tops. Pads went from lasting two days and sometimes less, to lasting at least two two-day EVENTS. Instead of the peddle going soft before the end of every 20 minutes session, the peddle has never gotten soft. Lap times came down 3 seconds at Lime Rock and 6 seconds at Watkins Glen, with similar gains at Pocono and NJMP. I'm very satisfied with the setup.
(see page 2 of this thread) I received several requests to re-post after the season and report how well the ducts had worked.
Here's the front set-up:
Wheels/Tires: 9.5x18 Enkei RPF1s / 265x35ZR18 Toyo Proxis R888s
Brakes/Pads: AP Racing six piston BBK / Ferodo Pads
Ducts: Stillen front splitter with "dummy" blocked ducts opened to 2"x7" for 14 square inch openings leading to a 4"x6" (24sq.in.) floor heating register (Home Depot) set into the front wall of the wheel well. The vanes have been adjusted to diffuse the air flow through the whole wheel well.
Results: Caliper Temps went from 400-500 down to 375 tops. Pads went from lasting two days and sometimes less, to lasting at least two two-day EVENTS. Instead of the peddle going soft before the end of every 20 minutes session, the peddle has never gotten soft. Lap times came down 3 seconds at Lime Rock and 6 seconds at Watkins Glen, with similar gains at Pocono and NJMP. I'm very satisfied with the setup.
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Registered User
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 1,010
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From: Cleburne, TX
So here's where I'm at.
Finally picked up the mounts from the shop. They are pretty rough but since I got two sets I can go slap one on the car while making the other one look a little better. Honestly though I thought they look a little better since they made the proto-type fairly well.
They weigh in at 0.5lbs each.
I actually have a 3rd set someone made me for free but the ports were tacked on the wrong way. :P
I gots a lot of traveling and racing to do so don't expect another update for a long time (just like all the others)
Finally picked up the mounts from the shop. They are pretty rough but since I got two sets I can go slap one on the car while making the other one look a little better. Honestly though I thought they look a little better since they made the proto-type fairly well.
They weigh in at 0.5lbs each.
I actually have a 3rd set someone made me for free but the ports were tacked on the wrong way. :P
I gots a lot of traveling and racing to do so don't expect another update for a long time (just like all the others)
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Joined: Sep 2007
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From: Auckland, New Zealand
You can try Rexpeed. They mainly make CF/FRP/ABS parts for Evo's. But according to their service section, you can contact them and ask about custom orders.
They are a trusted Vendor on Evo forums, and they currently have brake guides for Evo's for sale.
http://www.rexpeed.net/new2007/index.php
They are a trusted Vendor on Evo forums, and they currently have brake guides for Evo's for sale.
http://www.rexpeed.net/new2007/index.php
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Joined: Jan 2007
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Results: Caliper Temps went from 400-500 down to 375 tops. Pads went from lasting two days and sometimes less, to lasting at least two two-day EVENTS. Instead of the peddle going soft before the end of every 20 minutes session, the peddle has never gotten soft. Lap times came down 3 seconds at Lime Rock and 6 seconds at Watkins Glen, with similar gains at Pocono and NJMP. I'm very satisfied with the setup.
Thread Starter
|
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 1,010
Likes: 1
From: Cleburne, TX
You can try Rexpeed. They mainly make CF/FRP/ABS parts for Evo's. But according to their service section, you can contact them and ask about custom orders.
They are a trusted Vendor on Evo forums, and they currently have brake guides for Evo's for sale.
http://www.rexpeed.net/new2007/index.php
They are a trusted Vendor on Evo forums, and they currently have brake guides for Evo's for sale.
http://www.rexpeed.net/new2007/index.php
NICE!
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Joined: Sep 2003
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Confidence in Your Brakes is the Key
Yeah - I know. It took 5 or 6 laps, each about a second quicker to get there. The ducts were certainly the solution, but it was having confidence in the brakes that really made the difference. All of a sudden the pedal felt hard every lap at every corner and I started to brake later and later. That's where those seconds were dropped. Here's a video of a ten minute chase of a Porsche Turbo at Watkins Glen, outbraking him into every corner.
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