Brake Ducts
#46
11-15-2010, 10:59 AM
#47
12-10-2010, 02:40 PM
The final parts are being put togeather now. I gave the shop enough materials to make me 2 sets. I've got some cutting of plastic to do but this will be essentially what it looks like inside the wheel well. I have an idea of how to get the air from the bumper just haven't started cutting anything yet.
#49
12-27-2010, 11:18 PM
After my 5/19 post describing my "Low Bucks Brake Ducts for the G"
(see page 2 of this thread) I received several requests to re-post after the season and report how well the ducts had worked.
Here's the front set-up:
Wheels/Tires: 9.5x18 Enkei RPF1s / 265x35ZR18 Toyo Proxis R888s
Brakes/Pads: AP Racing six piston BBK / Ferodo Pads
Ducts: Stillen front splitter with "dummy" blocked ducts opened to 2"x7" for 14 square inch openings leading to a 4"x6" (24sq.in.) floor heating register (Home Depot) set into the front wall of the wheel well. The vanes have been adjusted to diffuse the air flow through the whole wheel well.
Results: Caliper Temps went from 400-500 down to 375 tops. Pads went from lasting two days and sometimes less, to lasting at least two two-day EVENTS. Instead of the peddle going soft before the end of every 20 minutes session, the peddle has never gotten soft. Lap times came down 3 seconds at Lime Rock and 6 seconds at Watkins Glen, with similar gains at Pocono and NJMP. I'm very satisfied with the setup.
(see page 2 of this thread) I received several requests to re-post after the season and report how well the ducts had worked.
Here's the front set-up:
Wheels/Tires: 9.5x18 Enkei RPF1s / 265x35ZR18 Toyo Proxis R888s
Brakes/Pads: AP Racing six piston BBK / Ferodo Pads
Ducts: Stillen front splitter with "dummy" blocked ducts opened to 2"x7" for 14 square inch openings leading to a 4"x6" (24sq.in.) floor heating register (Home Depot) set into the front wall of the wheel well. The vanes have been adjusted to diffuse the air flow through the whole wheel well.
Results: Caliper Temps went from 400-500 down to 375 tops. Pads went from lasting two days and sometimes less, to lasting at least two two-day EVENTS. Instead of the peddle going soft before the end of every 20 minutes session, the peddle has never gotten soft. Lap times came down 3 seconds at Lime Rock and 6 seconds at Watkins Glen, with similar gains at Pocono and NJMP. I'm very satisfied with the setup.
#51
01-12-2011, 09:21 PM
So here's where I'm at.
Finally picked up the mounts from the shop. They are pretty rough but since I got two sets I can go slap one on the car while making the other one look a little better. Honestly though I thought they look a little better since they made the proto-type fairly well.
They weigh in at 0.5lbs each.
I actually have a 3rd set someone made me for free but the ports were tacked on the wrong way. :P
I gots a lot of traveling and racing to do so don't expect another update for a long time (just like all the others)
Finally picked up the mounts from the shop. They are pretty rough but since I got two sets I can go slap one on the car while making the other one look a little better. Honestly though I thought they look a little better since they made the proto-type fairly well.
They weigh in at 0.5lbs each.
I actually have a 3rd set someone made me for free but the ports were tacked on the wrong way. :P
I gots a lot of traveling and racing to do so don't expect another update for a long time (just like all the others)
#53
01-14-2011, 11:08 PM
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Auckland, New Zealand
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You can try Rexpeed. They mainly make CF/FRP/ABS parts for Evo's. But according to their service section, you can contact them and ask about custom orders.
They are a trusted Vendor on Evo forums, and they currently have brake guides for Evo's for sale.
http://www.rexpeed.net/new2007/index.php
They are a trusted Vendor on Evo forums, and they currently have brake guides for Evo's for sale.
http://www.rexpeed.net/new2007/index.php
#54
01-15-2011, 07:50 AM
Results: Caliper Temps went from 400-500 down to 375 tops. Pads went from lasting two days and sometimes less, to lasting at least two two-day EVENTS. Instead of the peddle going soft before the end of every 20 minutes session, the peddle has never gotten soft. Lap times came down 3 seconds at Lime Rock and 6 seconds at Watkins Glen, with similar gains at Pocono and NJMP. I'm very satisfied with the setup.
#55
01-16-2011, 08:43 AM
You can try Rexpeed. They mainly make CF/FRP/ABS parts for Evo's. But according to their service section, you can contact them and ask about custom orders.
They are a trusted Vendor on Evo forums, and they currently have brake guides for Evo's for sale.
http://www.rexpeed.net/new2007/index.php
They are a trusted Vendor on Evo forums, and they currently have brake guides for Evo's for sale.
http://www.rexpeed.net/new2007/index.php
NICE!
#56
01-18-2011, 02:23 PM
Confidence in Your Brakes is the Key
Yeah - I know. It took 5 or 6 laps, each about a second quicker to get there. The ducts were certainly the solution, but it was having confidence in the brakes that really made the difference. All of a sudden the pedal felt hard every lap at every corner and I started to brake later and later. That's where those seconds were dropped. Here's a video of a ten minute chase of a Porsche Turbo at Watkins Glen, outbraking him into every corner.
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