Race: Bang for the Buck Engine Cooling Mods
#16
10-12-2010, 08:05 PM
Aftermarket Aluminum Radiator - helps coolant cool more efficiently
Oil Cooler w/ remote filter - This really helps with engine temp and will make all other mods works more efficiently.
Bumper mods such as this -
the magical solution - WATER WETTER!
My coolant runs a tad over 160 F Nor Cal Weather. I run it in all my 240's and my G. works wonders.
Oil Cooler w/ remote filter - This really helps with engine temp and will make all other mods works more efficiently.
Bumper mods such as this -
the magical solution - WATER WETTER!
My coolant runs a tad over 160 F Nor Cal Weather. I run it in all my 240's and my G. works wonders.
#17
10-12-2010, 08:28 PM
I have the water wetter in already. I never noticed any difference but I'll admit I don't have a temp gauge and each track has it's own cooling issues to deal with or not deal with.
As a stop gap solution I was trying to get the Infiniti grill off the car but that bastage is on there TITE and I didn't feal like breaking anything. Was at the track without lots of tools.
Now that summer is done I'll be ok this year unless we get some freek heat waves.
As a stop gap solution I was trying to get the Infiniti grill off the car but that bastage is on there TITE and I didn't feal like breaking anything. Was at the track without lots of tools.
Now that summer is done I'll be ok this year unless we get some freek heat waves.
#19
10-12-2010, 09:17 PM
Yikes. I'm planning on doing some track days here in SC. Temps stayed in mid to high 90's much of this summer but I'm planning on doing the events in late fall early winter.
Anyway, I might have to make the same mods but have not heard of anyone else overheating even in the summer. Let us know how it goes. Does it actually overheat or just run on the high side? Are you sure there isn't something else wrong?
Anyway, I might have to make the same mods but have not heard of anyone else overheating even in the summer. Let us know how it goes. Does it actually overheat or just run on the high side? Are you sure there isn't something else wrong?
#20
10-13-2010, 06:56 PM
I've only boiled it over once when I came off the track after a hot lap. But it'll get up to H on the medium and long straights. I back off it a bit so it doesn't stay pegged there.
There's nothing wrong with the car this is just one of those things that needs to be upraded when your running with the advanced groups. This past summer was in the top 10 for straight days over 100F.
There's nothing wrong with the car this is just one of those things that needs to be upraded when your running with the advanced groups. This past summer was in the top 10 for straight days over 100F.
#21
10-15-2010, 06:43 AM
After getting the checkered flag to end your session SLOW DOWN! It's called a cooldown lap for a reason. Try not to use the brakes, if need be put the heater on full blast. When you get to the pits, open the hood to help dissipate the engine heat. Thicker radiator and lower thermostat will do wonders.
#22
10-15-2010, 07:42 AM
despite your signature, i'll chime in with some suggestions since i've done a bunch of cooling mods.
- change your front bumper to one that flows better. Expensive and maybe impractical given your budget, but it really is the best way to lower your coolant temps.
- larger radiator - koyo & mishimoto make drop-ins with much more capacity than oem.- oil cooler - if you live in an environment that gets cold, make sure you get a sandwich plate that has a t-stat (mocal & earl's make them). You get greater oil capacity and lower temps.
- remove the engine cover and ditch the sound/heat shields on the hood & firewall.
Stuff that is irrelevant or should be far down the list (i've done these so i'm not talking out my @ss):
- fans - higher flowing fans are good, but the stock fans are fine even for boosted cars. If you upgrade your fans, you might as well get an aftermarket controller that will turn on your fans a little earlier than stock (low-208f, high-212f).- t-stats - the lower temp t-stats don't make your car run cooler when you need them too (when you're on the track). They do, however, open up sooner & let the car cool down more (by closing later) when you are cruising which can delay heat soak a bit. If this is a dedicated track car or one that only sees warm weather, then you might consider just running wide-open (no t-stat).
- pathfinder mod - decent amount of work to do this. Engine won't be cooler, but you will get better cooling to more of the engine.
- change your front bumper to one that flows better. Expensive and maybe impractical given your budget, but it really is the best way to lower your coolant temps.
- larger radiator - koyo & mishimoto make drop-ins with much more capacity than oem.- oil cooler - if you live in an environment that gets cold, make sure you get a sandwich plate that has a t-stat (mocal & earl's make them). You get greater oil capacity and lower temps.
- remove the engine cover and ditch the sound/heat shields on the hood & firewall.
Stuff that is irrelevant or should be far down the list (i've done these so i'm not talking out my @ss):
- fans - higher flowing fans are good, but the stock fans are fine even for boosted cars. If you upgrade your fans, you might as well get an aftermarket controller that will turn on your fans a little earlier than stock (low-208f, high-212f).- t-stats - the lower temp t-stats don't make your car run cooler when you need them too (when you're on the track). They do, however, open up sooner & let the car cool down more (by closing later) when you are cruising which can delay heat soak a bit. If this is a dedicated track car or one that only sees warm weather, then you might consider just running wide-open (no t-stat).
- pathfinder mod - decent amount of work to do this. Engine won't be cooler, but you will get better cooling to more of the engine.
#23
10-15-2010, 07:46 AM
The biggest bang for the buck is going to be getting an aftermarket controller that will allow you to turn on the fans at a lower temperature.
By the time your fans turn on (at 208) it'll spike the temps up to 220 and slowly bring it down. You boiled over because you were over 220degree's.
I turn on my fans at 188 and off at 181. (thats 170 at the radiator center and 152 off at radiator center).
I dont run via ecu, (fan clutch upgrade)... I have a thread e-fan diy for the sedans perhaps you can use some info from that.
here is the link:
https://g35driver.com/forums/engine-...onversion.html
By the time your fans turn on (at 208) it'll spike the temps up to 220 and slowly bring it down. You boiled over because you were over 220degree's.
I turn on my fans at 188 and off at 181. (thats 170 at the radiator center and 152 off at radiator center).
I dont run via ecu, (fan clutch upgrade)... I have a thread e-fan diy for the sedans perhaps you can use some info from that.
here is the link:
https://g35driver.com/forums/engine-...onversion.html
#24
10-15-2010, 09:56 AM
#25
11-05-2010, 01:06 PM
The biggest bang for the buck is going to be getting an aftermarket controller that will allow you to turn on the fans at a lower temperature.
By the time your fans turn on (at 208) it'll spike the temps up to 220 and slowly bring it down. You boiled over because you were over 220degree's.
I turn on my fans at 188 and off at 181. (thats 170 at the radiator center and 152 off at radiator center).
I dont run via ecu, (fan clutch upgrade)... I have a thread e-fan diy for the sedans perhaps you can use some info from that.
here is the link:
https://g35driver.com/forums/engine-...onversion.html
By the time your fans turn on (at 208) it'll spike the temps up to 220 and slowly bring it down. You boiled over because you were over 220degree's.
I turn on my fans at 188 and off at 181. (thats 170 at the radiator center and 152 off at radiator center).
I dont run via ecu, (fan clutch upgrade)... I have a thread e-fan diy for the sedans perhaps you can use some info from that.
here is the link:
https://g35driver.com/forums/engine-...onversion.html
#27
11-07-2010, 06:38 PM
Fans wouldn't make much a difference on the track. Most cooling done at speed is from outside air flowing through the radiator. Fans are usually for low speed (not a lot of natrual air through the radiator) cooling. I did fan mods on the corvette I used to own, it ran much cooler on the street. At the track the temps were the same as before fan mod. I had to go with an upgraded radiator, 90% water and it helped tremendously.
Most cooling is best done via the air speed coming through the radiator from the atmosphere.
But now lets look at turns, in a slow turn or a series of slow turns your vehicle will see very limited amounts of air in a frontal axis. It'll come in a diagonal way, thus not going 100% through the radiator. Air travels the least path of resistance.
With that said, fans kicked on at an earlier temperature WILL HELP make a difference. It won't be a HUGE difference, but it will be a difference.
The best thing to do at that point is to change the cooling system for the better. (bigger tank, higher pressure caps, etc...) But bang for the buck kicking the fans on earlier is a cheap way to get a little bit more assistance. It DEFINETLY IS NOT a substitute for upgrading for the better, just a cheap way to get away with it for a bit of time.
#29
11-25-2010, 01:03 AM
Registered User
What year is your G, gword? My '07 did fine- the temp did not budge from where it is for normal street driving. The last track event at Thunderhill it was 100 degrees and had 20 minute sessions with two 100+mph straights, redline often, and temp does not budge.. These cars seem to cool very well (stock) I thought it was the 3.7 liter engines that get hot..
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
joedaddy1
Engine, Drivetrain & Forced-Induction
0
07-28-2015 02:58 PM
