DIY: Parking Brake Adjustment ('05 6mt sedan)

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Old Feb 17, 2009 | 10:19 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by AARONHL
Yes, after you bang them with a hammer...
yes! lol i had a hard time taking mine off
 
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Old Mar 7, 2009 | 03:54 PM
  #17  
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Wow, I'm glad I found this thread. My parking brake barely grabs anymore. I was going to wait until I changed my rotors and pads to see if it helped, but I guess I'll do this instead!
 
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Old Mar 7, 2009 | 04:03 PM
  #18  
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ha, beat me to it, I just did this yesterday... To help those with a MT 03-04 coupe, they are in the exact same place you had them pictured. I took the time to take off each of my rotors so I could go ahead and clean the inside "drum" part cause it had a lot of loose brake dust in there... that and I accidently pushed the rubber stopper in instead of taking it out.... Good job, def a do it yourself not a dealer job
 
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Old Jun 10, 2009 | 11:00 PM
  #19  
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Anyone know where the cable tightener nut is on the 2006 sedan with the e-brake as a pedal on the floor?
 
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Old Jun 20, 2009 | 06:11 PM
  #20  
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Great DIY, My 03 Coupes e brakes don't have any grab anymore.i have been looking for this DIY for while. Thank you Thank you Thank you....
 
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Old Jul 2, 2009 | 08:57 AM
  #21  
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Does anyone know if on the 2003 sedan the self-locking nut can be accessed without taking off the centre console? I think it's right behind the cup holder that has the sliding cover; can that holder be removed?

Thanks for any help!
Alex
 
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Old Jul 6, 2009 | 05:21 PM
  #22  
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"You’ll see a self-locking nut on a stud that attached directly to the p-brake cable. Loosen this nut so that there is plenty of play in the cable. Put the handle in the down position".

I never did this step while adjusting my parking brake in any of the cars I have owned. Is this step really necessary?
 
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Old Jul 7, 2009 | 01:15 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by UltraBlue600RR
"You’ll see a self-locking nut on a stud that attached directly to the p-brake cable. Loosen this nut so that there is plenty of play in the cable. Put the handle in the down position".

I never did this step while adjusting my parking brake in any of the cars I have owned. Is this step really necessary?
Yes and no. If there's play in the hand brake, then you want to adjust it. Otherwise, you can pull the handle all the way up and the car can still roll.
 
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Old Jul 7, 2009 | 01:39 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by maciejk
so the rotors just come off after removing the caliper assembly, thats good
Yea but I get what you're saying. Other cars, like my buddy's Acura TL, have two annoying *** screws that secure the rotor to the hub assembly. They sit flush with the rotor and require an impact wrench to remove. I helped him replace his rotors and those two screws on each rotor were the biggest PITA! We literally spent 1 hour on each rotor and basically ruined each screw.
 
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Old Jul 9, 2009 | 09:43 PM
  #25  
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Never could find a dealer that wasn't out to screw me for every penny I had in the bank. Great DIY. I've also found that when the rotor gets replaced, some times folks don't clean out the inside surface, so some of the oil used to keep the rotor from rusting out is still on the inside causing your parking brakes not to have a good friction surface. FWIW - I drove for short distances with the parking brakes on 1 - 2 clicks and it gave me a great friction surface. Brakes hold like champions now (too lazy to check the drum portion of the rear brakes). +1 on the recommendation to check the inside for dust build up.
 
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Old Jan 12, 2010 | 06:31 PM
  #26  
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So how hard is it to replace the parking brake pads? If a car's parking brake is very loose, could it be that simply tightening them more is like refilling the brake fluid in the reservoir when pads are very low? I think it's probably time for me to replace those pads. I can't find any at www.g35parts.com, though. I thought I had found some and put them and some other stuff in a shopping cart a few months back, but apparently they've deleted my account just when I'm about ready to spend four or five hundred bucks there.
 
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Old Aug 1, 2010 | 11:25 AM
  #27  
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just did this yesterday to my car! excellent DIY, extremely easy.
 
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Old Aug 9, 2010 | 01:36 PM
  #28  
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I just did this last night and it worked well only question is, How do I know if the brake is too tight? I put it in nuetral and the car will roll freely I just dont know is it possible for the brake to be partly engaged? It only take me 4 clicks to be fully engaged now instead of almost all the way up like before...and the parking brake is very sturdy and harder to pull up now...Is this right or normal?

Thanks
 
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Old Aug 10, 2010 | 01:09 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by 6MT G35 KS
I just did this last night and it worked well only question is, How do I know if the brake is too tight? I put it in nuetral and the car will roll freely I just dont know is it possible for the brake to be partly engaged? It only take me 4 clicks to be fully engaged now instead of almost all the way up like before...and the parking brake is very sturdy and harder to pull up now...Is this right or normal?

Thanks
Nevermind fixed my own issue today all that i had to do is loosen the self-locking nut under the center consle...
 
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Old Apr 14, 2011 | 04:14 PM
  #30  
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Thanks for this post! I just got a 2006 6MT Coupe and have to pull the handle all the way up (9-10 clicks) to get any kind of grip.

I'm not sure if this works for earlier years, but I wanted to point out that you don't have to remove all those trim pieces to access the e-brake nut. There is a felt coin holder that pops right off, then pull up on handle and you can get a deep socket on there.

Here's a picture of the part I'm talking about, hopefully this makes it easier for some people:

Name:  E-Brake.jpg
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