DIY: Parking Brake Adjustment ('05 6mt sedan)

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Old Apr 17, 2011 | 11:59 AM
  #31  
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^ I learned that after taking off the entire arm rest the first time... Sometimes the FSM could use a bit more detail.

Removing just that coin holder makes the adjustment so much easier!
 
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Old Apr 20, 2011 | 01:20 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by LoSt180
Thanks for this post! I just got a 2006 6MT Coupe and have to pull the handle all the way up (9-10 clicks) to get any kind of grip.

I'm not sure if this works for earlier years, but I wanted to point out that you don't have to remove all those trim pieces to access the e-brake nut. There is a felt coin holder that pops right off, then pull up on handle and you can get a deep socket on there.

Here's a picture of the part I'm talking about, hopefully this makes it easier for some people:

I just picked up my 2006 6MT yesterday and my e-brake handle is like a slot machine lever same (9-10) clicks. I'll be doing this fix later today.
 
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Old Apr 20, 2011 | 11:50 PM
  #33  
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^^^^^

Removed the plastic coin holder
Used a 10mm long socket with an extension to tighten the nut to the point where I could wiggle the nut with my finger slightly when the hand brake is in the off (down) position.
Replaced plastic coin holder

The pull is now about 1/2 of what it was and its a firm grip.

I took all of about 5min to do

Thanks!!!!
 
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Old Apr 21, 2011 | 06:47 AM
  #34  
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^^^make sure you follow up and adjust the brakes also. One side on mine took noticeably more turns to tighten up.
 
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Old Sep 19, 2011 | 01:59 PM
  #35  
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floor e brake

Is there a DIY for the e brakes that are on the floor, next to the pedals?
 
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Old Nov 30, 2011 | 07:58 PM
  #36  
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Excellent write-up!! Adjusted my parking brake in no time!!
 
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Old Jun 18, 2012 | 05:22 PM
  #37  
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RCL
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So I just bought a 06 g35 coupe 6mt and the e brake was very loose. All I did was tighten that bolt near the parking brake handle and the e brake handle only goes up a few clicks now as opposed to the 15 or so it would before, before adjustment the e brake handle would make almost a 90 degree angle with the center console! Now its about a 30-40 degree angle when engaged.
 
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Old Sep 30, 2013 | 06:18 PM
  #38  
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I also just tightened that bolt under the coin holder on my 05 while I was at a hotel took maybe 5 minutes including pulling out the socket set I keep in the trunk and making sure it wasn't too tight
Great DIY Thanks for the help!
 
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Old Sep 30, 2013 | 06:20 PM
  #39  
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Sorry duplicate post
 

Last edited by Babyseat; Sep 30, 2013 at 06:32 PM.
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Old Sep 30, 2013 | 06:21 PM
  #40  
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Wow 3 times lol sorry phone messed up
 

Last edited by Babyseat; Sep 30, 2013 at 06:34 PM.
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Old Sep 30, 2013 | 06:31 PM
  #41  
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And again my bad
 
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Old Jan 1, 2015 | 08:50 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by j 4 lD
Yea but I get what you're saying. Other cars, like my buddy's Acura TL, have two annoying *** screws that secure the rotor to the hub assembly. They sit flush with the rotor and require an impact wrench to remove. I helped him replace his rotors and those two screws on each rotor were the biggest PITA! We literally spent 1 hour on each rotor and basically ruined each screw.
Home Depot sells a tool that when you hit it with a hammer, it loosens a Philips screw. I bought it for just this purpose and it works well.
 
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Old Jan 1, 2015 | 09:46 PM
  #43  
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I just went out to do this adjustment. When I went to loosen the locking nut on the foot pedal, I noticed the cable was already loose. So I tightened the screw and raised each rear wheel, making sure they could rotate when parking brake was off, and not when it was on. It was quite easy, I don't know if there is any problem with how I did it, but it seems to work fine and I did not have to take the wheels off or take anything apart.
 
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Old Apr 12, 2015 | 07:25 AM
  #44  
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From: Springfield, VA
G35 6MT Coupe
I was doing my rear brakes and decided to be a masochist and do the parking shoes as well. Springs aside, the hardest part of the job was getting the old rotors off of the car. I was banging on them with a freakin' sledge and they werent budging. I ended up spraying copious amounts of WD-40 and letting it soak for a couple hours. I put anti-seize on the darn thing when I put the new rotor on.

Back to the topic though. After doing the shoes and messing with that star wheel, I was done. Having never dealt with drums before there was a bit of a learning curve and it was a real PITA rotating that star, checking the tightness, repeating... It didnt help that I had 1 wheel on the ground. Eventually I got it tight and backed the star off about 3 clicks. Once that was done I went in the cabin to adjust the e-brake, but found it was pretty good. No adjustment needed

In all honesty, I probably could have just tightened up the handle and been fine, but I figured while I had my rear rotors off, I might as well change the e-brake shoes. Its going to be a while before those rear rotors come off again.
 
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