Kinetix or Cusco A-arms
#16
#17
Originally Posted by ATL_Red_G35
If your front toe is in good specs and the camber is not that much of then I'd stick around for the SPC new front camber sets in two months.
I've had SPC before and I'd stick by their products
I've had SPC before and I'd stick by their products
#19
I am in the process of engeniering and then manufacturing our very own VRT line of suspension components for these cars (Z's and G's) coilovers, front and rear camber arms/links, etc. Testing some prototypes right now! On our front upper controll arms, they will be made to adjust more than most out there, for the maximum added negative and positive camber. I will keep everyone posted on the progress.
#20
even with the SPC, you might find you cannot get both camber and toe back to factory specs - hard to say for sure, as there are alot of variables that are specific to your car that its hard to visualize without being there. They will get you very close though, that's for sure
As for the Cusco's, they may or may not provide the adjustment level you need - that's where the wheel offset and tires really come into play, as they have a big effect on your final alignment numbers and how much adjustment you need to get back to a factory or close to factory specs. I would not say they won't come close though, as many have proven otherwise (I've got them on my car, with a 2 inch drop, a moderate wheel package, and can get down to within factory specs at max positive adjustment on the a arms). I've played around with a variety of camber settings in front and rear, and chose to run higher than factory camber (about 2 degrees per side)
When it's all said and done, make sure your toe is back to a factory spec. Some additional negative camber over the factory spec is not only acceptable, but desirable, as it really helps these cars out.
As for the Cusco's, they may or may not provide the adjustment level you need - that's where the wheel offset and tires really come into play, as they have a big effect on your final alignment numbers and how much adjustment you need to get back to a factory or close to factory specs. I would not say they won't come close though, as many have proven otherwise (I've got them on my car, with a 2 inch drop, a moderate wheel package, and can get down to within factory specs at max positive adjustment on the a arms). I've played around with a variety of camber settings in front and rear, and chose to run higher than factory camber (about 2 degrees per side)
When it's all said and done, make sure your toe is back to a factory spec. Some additional negative camber over the factory spec is not only acceptable, but desirable, as it really helps these cars out.
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