Floor Jack

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Old Jan 30, 2007 | 03:32 AM
  #31  
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From: MANOA
haha. take it easy, its just jacks....
 
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Old Feb 11, 2007 | 01:18 AM
  #32  
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Exclamation

you know how the factory spare floor jack that comes with the g has a cut on the lifting pad so it doesnt bend the metal under ur car ( see the pic attached to see the metal I was talking about)...what or where do you guys jack your cars with on a aftermarket jack b/c mine bent a little ( but i was able to bend it back ) Should I use a pice of wood....And where are other jack points on our G coupe? Say I wanted to jack the whole front up or back..Thanks

 
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Old Feb 11, 2007 | 09:30 AM
  #33  
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I use wood and jack at the cutours on the side, but I also jack the entire rear under the pumpkin and the entire front under the black crossmember under the motor.
 
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Old Feb 11, 2007 | 11:07 PM
  #34  
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thanks
 
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Old Feb 12, 2007 | 12:41 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by jpez179
you know how the factory spare floor jack that comes with the g has a cut on the lifting pad so it doesnt bend the metal under ur car ( see the pic attached to see the metal I was talking about)...what or where do you guys jack your cars with on a aftermarket jack b/c mine bent a little ( but i was able to bend it back ) Should I use a pice of wood....And where are other jack points on our G coupe? Say I wanted to jack the whole front up or back..Thanks
i put a small piece of wood block behind that rail...there's a slight
bulge where the factory jack sits on. it doesn't sit on that rail.

when i put the car on stands, the cross member under the motor
(not your oil pan!) and rear diff.
 
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Old Feb 12, 2007 | 02:23 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by kenchan
you can probably get one of these in your garage if you lift your car often.
they have all sorts of other lifts and not too expensive for what they can
do.

for most people, a regular racing jack should do the trick. i only lift my
car twice a month during the winter and maybe no more than once every
other month in the summer months.

check this out:
http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/Ph...ode=TPPRO%2D6M
I thought about that, but those can get spendy real fast.... I opted to instead get a 3-ton air-assisted hydraulic floor jack. I just connect it to my compressor, and it will raise my car 19" in seconds. I got some other air-accessories while I was at it, and now I don't know how I ever lived without my air-tools....

I just rotated my wife's tires a little while ago.. Took me seriously like < 2 minutes to lift the car from the front/center and rear/center jack points, and put the car on jack stands.... Then another 1 minute to remove all 4 wheels with the impact wrench....

In case anyone was curious, this is where I got my jack.
 

Last edited by avs007; Feb 12, 2007 at 02:30 AM.
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Old Feb 12, 2007 | 10:37 AM
  #37  
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^^ avs- that's cool. can you fit that jack under the car without
raising the car on blocks?

i should get a cordless impact gun down the road. just to remove the
lugs mostly. i like to hand tighten my lugs not to strip the studs.
 
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Old Feb 12, 2007 | 11:54 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by kenchan
^^ avs- that's cool. can you fit that jack under the car without
raising the car on blocks?

i should get a cordless impact gun down the road. just to remove the
lugs mostly. i like to hand tighten my lugs not to strip the studs.
Depends how you are jacking the car...

It fits under my TL no problem anywhere.... My G35... It fits under the differential/rear jack point and the 4 side jack points no problem... (The jack pad is only 5.25" high)

The front/center jack point on the G35, the jack body hits the lower-engine cover... However, even my trusty low-profile jack rubs the lower-engine cover. So I back the car onto a scrap piece of wood, to fit the jack under the front jack point. Not that big a deal to me. It's so effortless to raise the car, it's worth it... My low profile jack will fit under the front without backing onto a scrap piece of wood, but then it bends the lower-engine cover to do it. Then on top of that the bar will hit my front lip rendering it useless, such that I have to use a screwdriver to pump the jack. And with zero leverage with a screwdriver, it takes a lot of elbow grease to raise the car that way.

I looked around and found aluminum racing jacks that looked like they were lower so it wouldn't bend my engine cover, but it's only the jack pad that's low-clearance... The jack body (at least the one I saw) was actually bigger than the jack body of my air-jack. That, and they were the same price as the air assisted jack.

As for the impact wrench... I also bought a set of Torque-Sticks, so I hand thread the lugs on, use the impact wrench + torque stick to tighten it down to 75 pounds or so, then after I lower the car, I go back with a torque wrench, and tighten them to spec by hand.

The impact wrench saved me last weekend when I did a brake job... The caliper bolts were pretty tight, but when I used a breaker-bar, it just spun the nut on the other side of the bolt, so the whole thing turned, which meant it wouldn't losen. And I didn't have a box wrench big enough to hold the nut... So I just put the impact wrench on the bolt, and it removed the caliper bolt without spinning the nut.
 

Last edited by avs007; Feb 13, 2007 at 12:01 AM.
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Old Feb 13, 2007 | 12:05 AM
  #39  
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There are cheaper options for air jacks too.... At costco, they have this and this. It uses the same material as the components on an air-suspension system, so they are pretty rugged. At $129 and $149, they are great bang-for-buck air-jacks.

The two bag model should clear the front/center jack point of the G35 without having to back onto blocks. Only reason I didn't get it, is because I also have a TL, which has a really high jack point for the rear, and the two bag model wouldn't cut it. The 3 bag model would've worked, but then it wouldn't clear the front/center jack point of the G35.
 
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Old Feb 13, 2007 | 08:42 AM
  #40  
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^^ thanks for the info. the HF one that i have are like less than 4"... 3.5" or
so to the top of the pad.

that's the primary reason why i got this thing, and got two since these are
cheap. i dont want to be rolling the car inside the garage in the winter time
just to get them on jacks when i turn the tires from time to time. but in
the warmer months those taller jacks will do just fine.
 
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Old Feb 13, 2007 | 12:38 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by kenchan
i dont want to be rolling the car inside the garage in the winter time
just to get them on jacks when i turn the tires from time to time.
Yeah, I envy you.... I have no choice really. They don't build houses like they used to... Becuase of the stupid stairs in my garage, (and my workbench in the third stall) my cars' front license plate is within 1" of touching the stairs/workbench, and within inches of touching the garage door. So I pretty much always have to back out a little to do any work.

But that's why I had the garage fully insulated, so I won't freeze my **** off in the winter time, as I can use a little heater to keep warm...
 
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Old Feb 13, 2007 | 11:31 PM
  #42  
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^^ my garage space is very tight too... not tight like "inches" like yours,
but tight enough that i can't fit a decent sized 6ft workbench without a
squeeze.

been thinking about getting some modular cabinets from Gladiator so that
i can upgrade later on with a 8ft work bench when im down to only one
weekend car in the garage. i wish i had another 3ft either depth or width.
 
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Old Feb 14, 2007 | 01:37 AM
  #43  
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I also bought 2 Harbor Freight jacks. One is the smaller blue aluminum lightweight racing jack, and the other is the larger silver aluminum rapid pump racing jack.
 
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Old Feb 14, 2007 | 08:33 AM
  #44  
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^^ very nice.
 
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Old Feb 17, 2007 | 11:57 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by Triple8Sol
I also bought 2 Harbor Freight jacks. One is the smaller blue aluminum lightweight racing jack, and the other is the larger silver aluminum rapid pump racing jack.

would you recommend to get the rapid one? is it that big of a difference? Does it take a lot more pumps for the blue one to lift car pretty high?
 
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