He bent the SPC arm?

 

Yes..it's called steering ;-)

 

Put it this way - again -

Lower the car - buy camber kits front and rear for the obvious reasons. Don't buy them, have your alignment guy just set the toe and let it go...see what you like or not. You can always put them on later...until you know how far out it is...you wont know exactly what you'll need.

Rick

 

youll need front and rear cambers along with the springs granted that your lowering it over an inch

(most will say you sont need cambers if an inch or less)

 

Technically - you'll need the cambers no matter how much you lower it..actually, the way our cars are setup factory, you need them whether you lower the car or not - as they are too much negative cambered for a factory setting and promote premature tire wear.

Whether you actually put them on or not, is a personal choice, but from my other posts, you'll sacrifice several things - handling, steering acuteness, tire wear, etc.

Rick

 

not saying that toe does not require adjustment, just that altering it without knowing what you are doing (for the sake of quicker cornering) is not a good idea.

altering caster may make your car very unstable at highway speeds. is this not so? <all i way implying on my original post.

 

OK - go here - questions should stop now:

http://www.ozebiz.com.au/racetech/theory/align.html

Rick

 

I think were going to get a lot of

NEW SPRINGS JUST ISNTALLED *PICS* threads here shortly lol.

Just ordered some H techs

I'm just going to get an alighnment-- Japtrix said should be fine with that set up.

with 175 in labor I hope im not making a mistake =\

Thanks for everyone post!

 

You'll like the H-techs - when I was testing them, I never did any adjustment other than toe and everything was fine...Rick

 

alright, ive decided to get the cambers for front and back also the toe kit. my ultimate goal is to lower it but keep all factory specs... toe, caster, allignment ect. i think they did a great job developing the stock suspension. does anyone know why the stillen setup is sooooo so much more expensive than spc? I want the best for my car and price is no option...

 

They cost more because of the S and the T and the I and the two L's followed by the EN

I think it cost Steve extra to have it italicized too..

 

The stillen rear costs more because the camber arms uses a spherical bearing setup rather than bushings which are more expensive, which technically should make the suspension slightly tighter, and uses "toe" arms rather than toe bolts, which also cost more, but is the wrong way to go about adjusting camber. The SPC/Eibach kit is the way to go for the rear, cheapest and only correct way to adjust toe

 

funny - pay more for the wrong way...

 

ISMSOLUTIONS, no he didnt bemd the spc arms he bent the stock camber arms. The reason why he did this was becasue the right tire had more negative camber then the left. The left was within spen but the right was not at -2.1. So what he did was bend the stock arm a bit so that it could pull the wheel in from the bottom therefore giving it some more positive camber, but I dont think this was a great idea, since the car does not drive the way its supposed to. Wne I go over uneven areas on the highway the car seems to pull too much. What can this be? The spc rear camber kit is going on tomorrow. The front I will leave alone.

 

I'm having -1.6 camber in the rear, is that gonna wear out my tires real quick ? Toes is at nominal specs at 0.11.

Car is only lowered 5mm in the rear(yeah almost nothing) cause that's the highest the HKS RS can go.