I see a lot of painted brake calipers here, so I'm hoping you can help me...

I'm replacing my stock brake pads with Hawks. The front pads went on fine, as I could compress the pistons with my hands. The rears calipers will NOT compress. I have removed one caliper COMPLETLY and disconnected the E-brake and the piston will not BUDGE beyond it's original position.
The stock rear pads were almost gone and the new Hawks pads are almost 3 times the thickness of the current stock pads. I need almost 3/8 more clearance to get the rear calpiers over the new pads.

Am I missing something? Anyone else have this problem and find a solution?

Thanks you your help.

 

crack the bleeder screw open and you should be able to push the piston in by hand. If it still won't budge, you can use a block of wood and try to pry it in or use a c-clamp to slowly push it in. The key is to do it slowly so you don't rip the dust cover.

 

By cracking the bleeder screw will it cause air to get into the brake lines?

 

All rear disc brakes I have done in the last 5 years require the piston to rotate as it compresses. I bought the tool a while back and it goes very easily. Don't force it or you will break something.

Adam

 

I always thought you could take the old pad and a C-clamp to fix it.

 

yes, air will get in if you crack the bleeder screw. You just need to then bleed the system after, no biggie. It's a good idea anyway, to flushout the old fluid when you change pads.

You do not need to rotate the piston, it should just push straight in. Just go slow.

 

I tried it with a C clamp for the rear and it will not budge. In the front it work perfectly fine but with the back it won't budge at all.

 

Weird, almost every import and non-import that I have done brakes on it the past few years has required the piston to rotate as it compressed. I am too lazy to take mine apart to check, calling the dealer would probably yield a result in a few seconds. Better safe than sorry. I bet the calipers are $$$.

Even if you don't have to rotate the piston on the G, the tool that does this makes it much easier to compress any caliper piston than using an old pad and a cheap cast C-clamp.

Adam

 

If you cannot compress after removing the caliper from the car, I would try to confirm if these need to rotate, otherwise, you may have a seized piston. Not sure if they will sell a rebuild kit for our cars, so if that is the case, might have to buy a new caliper. What year is your car, coupe/sedan?

Adam

 

First off, the E-brake is a cabled system and has no effect on the piston.

Please forgive these questions if they sound overly obviouse or just plain dumb, but your original post is a bit vaque.

By remove caliper COMPLETLY, you don't mean that it's off the car with brake line detached, do you?

Is it safe to assume that you took the cap off the fluid resevior and removed a little fluid from the resevoir first?

Remember, the brake lines going to the rears are much longer than the fronts and they are a bit harder to push. With the cap off of the resevoir and a small amount of fluid removed (so it doesn't overflow when you compress the piston) either a c-clamp or a large channel-lock should give you the leverage to slowly compress the brake piston. If that doesn't work, your caliper has to be fixed (which is probably a lot more work than you bargained for when undertaking a simple pad replacement).

Good luck.

 

that is for most honda's. The rear brakes on the G dont have twisting calipers, they are press in just like the fronts.
-GP-

 

mine just pressed in by leverage with a screwdriver in the view window went right in. 6 speed sport

 

Get one of these if you don't have a Brembo caliper:

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...seBVCookie=Yes

The flat end holds the outside of the caliper, then press the inside pad back so you can push the piston back in.

If you have a fixed Brembo caliper, use this:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=46806

You may also have a stuck piston that requires a rebuild.