I just finish installing R1 rotors and Hawks brake pads on the car. Now when I tried to break in the pads the cars feel weird. Under normal driving the rotors are real loud when they rotate on the car. It sounds like it's rubbing against the pads. Is it suppose to be like this. Also when I brake the cars starts to shake. Could it be that the new rotors are warp? Last when I slam on the brakes the front right side started shaking real bad. I mean you could feel the whole right side shaking. Did I do something wrong?

 

too many issues to tell by reading.. id take it to a break specialist.. they can make noise at 1st.. but shouldnt shake

 

+2 take it in.
Sounds like something was messed up on the install.

 

Never do brakes yourself, Unless u r a Pro........fessional.

 

Replacing rotors and pads is easy. It's a 2-out of 5.

Re: your brake problems:

Did you clean the hub surface with a wire brush to make sure the rotor sits flat?

What sort of bed-in process did you do?

Which shims did you use?

Did you use any anti-viration grease???

 

You need to check them for runout with a proper guage Without that you are simply guessing. They may not be warped but they also may not be mounted square and clean. That can usually be corrected easily if detected during installation. If you leave them in place to long and the runout is excess from mounting issues, they will wear uneven and then not be correctable without cutting. I would never mount a new set of rotors with out a guage or some type of runout reference to be sure that they are true.

 

Geez....brakes and rotors are one of the easiest do it yourself projects there is. You must not be very mechanically inclined.

Although it does happen, It is very rare that rotors warp nowdays.

Double check everything on your install....did you put the shims back in?....use anti squeal goop?....torque your wheels back down properly?

Your problem is prob inconsistant pad transfer onto the new rotor surfaces.

The bed in procedure is critical. Make sure you follow a bed in procedure and let them cool without using them.

Good luck.

 

Brakes 202- How-to Guides
Rotor Seasoning for Street or Light Track Applications

The first step in preparing the brake system for duty is to “SEASON” the rotors. The most visible effects are that of burning the machine oils from the surface of the iron and establishing a wear pattern between the pad and rotor. The most complex task it performs is that of relieving the internal stresses within the material. If you’ve ever poured water into a glass of ice, and noticed the ice cracking, then you’ve witnessed, first hand, the effects of internal stresses. The rotor casting and cooling processes leave the rotor with internal stresses.

By gradually heating the material, the crystalline matrix will reconfigure to relieve these internal stresses. After these stresses are relieved, the rotor is ready to accept the heat of bedding pads. Heating the rotors before they are fully seasoned can result in material deformation due to the unrelieved internal stresses in the material. This deformation may cause a vibration from the brakes. In order to prevent this vibration, all PRO-RACE+ rotors are trued before shipping.

Rotors need to be gradually elevated to “race” temperatures before any severe use. A “nibble”, or slight vibration, normally indicates rotors that were heated too quickly. After initial “Seasoning”, when running your car at open track events or serious canyon carving, you should use the first lap of a session (or first couple miles of open road), to warm the brakes as well as the engine, gearbox, etc. Where an engine turns chemical energy into motion, the brakes turn that motion into thermal energy.... and lots of it! And where there is no cooling system for the brakes as there is for the engine, and there’s not,
the brakes could use the courtesy of a warm-up lap.

Remember to ALWAYS WARM THE BRAKES before any heavy use!

Seasoning Procedure:

Before you begin, please note: The following represents the minimum recommended, “Seasoning” process. If your situation offers any opportunity to perform gentle preliminary “Seasoning” outlined in Step 2 below for a longer period of time, this will
generally render even better performance and increase further long-term rotor life. Use the vehicle for 5 to 6 days of gentle driving. Use the brakes to the same extent that you used the stock brakes, DO NOT TEST PERFORMANCE or ATTEMPT HEAVY USE UNTIL ALL ITEMS OUTLINED HAVE BEEN COMPLETED. It is imperative that excessive heat is not put into the rotors at this stage. They need temperature-cycling to relieve the internal stresses.

Note: Zinc plated rotors (which are an extra cost option) need a couple of extra days of driving to wear through the plating before “Seasoning” actually will begin. Find a safe location where the brakes can be run to temperature. Your goal is to gradually increase brake temperatures with progressively faster stops. Start by performing four 60 to 70 mph stops, as you would in the normal course of driving.

Next, perform four medium effort partial stops (about 50 %) from 60 mph down to 15 mph. Follow this with five minutes of freeway driving with LITTLE to NO BRAKING to allow the rotors to cool.

Then, perform four medium-hard effort partial stops (about 75 %) from 60 mph down to 15 mph. Follow this with ten minutes of freeway driving with LITTLE to NO BRAKING to allow the rotors to cool.

Park the car and allow the brakes to cool overnight to ambient temperature. You are now 50 % done with the rotor “Seasoning/Bedding” procedure proceed to STEP 4 the following day.

Return to the safe location where the brakes can be run to temperature. Make sure the brakes are warmed to full operating temperature and then, perform four medium effort partial stops (about 50 %) from 60 mph down to 15 mph. Follow this with
five minutes of freeway driving with LITTLE to NO BRAKING to allow the rotors to cool. Then, perform four medium-hard effort partial stops (about 75 %) from 60 mph down to 15 mph. Follow this with ten minutes of freeway driving with LITTLE to NO BRAKING
to allow the rotors to cool.

NOW, make six HARD partial stops from 60+ mph down to 15 mph or until rotors have reached an operation temperature of between 900 and 1,100° (Note: Temperature paints to accurately measure rotor temperature may be purchased from Baer Racing). Every effort should be made to perform this procedure without locking a wheel. Follow this with ten minutes of freeway driving with LITTLE to NO BRAKING to allow the rotors to cool.

Let the system cool off over night. The rotors are then ready for the next step in Preparing your Brake System: Bedding Pads.

 

Brakes 202- How-to Guides
Pad Bedding for Street or Light Track Applications



Bedding brake pads has a couple of important effects. The friction material in semimetallic pads is held together by an organic binder, usually a type of phenolic material. As the pads get hot, the binder boils, and burns, from the top surface of the pad. Once this burning or “Bedding” takes place the friction material makes proper contact with the
rotor.

Some race/performance pads, like the Performance Friction’s line of pads, are designated as “pre-burnished” from the manufacturer. In our experience these pads still benefit from “bedding”. “Bedding” pads establishes a wear pattern between the pads and rotor. Some pads, like the Performance Friction pads, deposit a layer of carbon in the surface of the
rotor. They need that layer of carbon to perform at peak efficiency.

Most Baer Claw™ systems, which are equipped with PBR calipers, SS/DRAG, SPORT, TRACK, and TRACK+, come standard with metallic pads. However, PBR based ASEDAN systems, as well as PRO-RACE and PRO-RACE+ Systems with the Alcon calipers feature carbon metallic pads from Pagid, Performance Friction or Tekstar.

Bedding Metallic or Carbon/Metallic Pads - (NEVER DRAG the brakes)

Note: Never “Bed” pads on rotors, which have not first been “Seasoned.” Always allow a substantial coast down zone when bedding pads that will allow you to safely drive the car to a stop in the event of fade.

Perform four-repeated light to medium stops, from 65 to 10 mph, to bring the rotors to temperature.

Perform two heavy stops, back to back, at a point just pending wheel lock, from 65 mph to about 5 mph. Drive for five to ten minutes to create cooling airflow, without using the brakes if at all possible.

Perform three light stops in succession. Perform eight heavy stops, back to back, at a point just pending wheel lock, from 65 mph
to about 5 mph.

Drive for ten minutes to create cooling airflow, without using the brakes if at all possible.

Metallic brake pads need high temperatures to keep the pad “Bedded”. If you drive the car for a period of time without using the brakes extensively, you may need to “Bed” the pads again. This is not a problem. Simply repeat the procedure.

When switching from Performance Friction Carbon Metallic pads to semi-metallic brake pads (something we do not recommend), you will need to wear through the layer of carbon that the PFC pads have deposited in the rotor surface. The new pads won’t grip
well at all, until this layer of carbon is removed.

Racers should “Bed” a few sets of pads at a time. In the event you need to change brake pads during a race, you MUST use a set of “Bedded” pads. Racing on “non-bedded” pads leads to a type of “fade” caused by the binding agents coming out of the pad too quickly. This is called “green fade”. These binders may create a liquid (actually a gas) layer between your pads and rotors. Liquids have a very poor coefficient of friction. This condition is the reason for reverse slotting or cross-drilling rotors, as it allows a pathway for the gasses to escape.

If any of this is unclear or you have comments, please call us at (602) 233-1411.

 

I'm not sure if this helps, but I've used this stuff with my most recent set of rotors.

http://www.lubegard.com/automotive/b...eakrelief.html

My Wilwood rotors seemed to warp after a couple thousand miles (not sure if it was warping or hot spots). I get the rotors machined and the vibration seemed to come back after another couple thousand miles. Properly bedding the brakes does help tremendously. However, sometimes I second guess myself, am I pressing too hard or too soft during the bedding process. I found that spraying this stuff on a new rotor (or recently machined rotor) before install makes the bedding process easier (almost full proof). Not sure how to describe it, but it just feels like the surface between the rotor and pad is very "even" when you brake.